Chainguides
- Thread starter davec113
- Start date
That's why you use the black/steel lower pulley bolt that the e13s come with if you ride in a rocky region. The Gold one is all 1999 breakaway aluminum derailleur bolt stylee.
all of your problems sound more than "normal" use if youre breaking the G2 so much. hell my Revolt broke before my G2 Mini did. the G2 and G2Mini are also identical besides for chainring capacity btw.
and over torquing something is not the mfg's fault, its your fault.
if you could design something in a day, we'd all love to see it
Um, no... The full size G2 is significantly different from the G2Mini. I have both, remember?
The overtorquing issue I'm talking about could be fixed by reinforcing the lower guide plate. It might cost $0.10 more to manufacture, but then it would be less of a POS.
This is the second time you assume how and what I ride, please just f-off unless you have something worthwhile to say.
This, plus the fact they make a 32t specific guide makes the Straitline the guide I'm going with for the trail bike...
i love how mechanical engineers always try to one up each other. is that your great re-design? $.10 more of plastic? has MRP contacted you yet for a job?
im sorry i forgot i called you a hack another time and that you get butt-hurt easily.
im sorry i forgot i called you a hack another time and that you get butt-hurt easily.
seems to me he doesn't know how to ajust it,I even raise my lower guide even more for rock clearence.
flawlesss
hey everyone, thread's over. the expert engineer has spoken.
You're acting like a d-bag for no reason.
Another thing. Stop putting words in my mouth. I never said $.10 "more plastic". IMO, the solution would be to have an aluminum sleeve that presses over the backside of the lower guide surrounding the bolt. Either that or mold it into place during the mfg. process. The f'ing lower guide that I just bought cracked when I turned the bolt 1/8 of a turn or so past snug. The force required was only slightly more than the force required to turn the bolt freely, as the bolt has some threadlocker on it, making torque specs useless. So, the guide is not very robust and I consider that a huge design flaw.
Basically, MRP has a sh!t-load of small improvements that could be made to their G2 guides.
you must be new here.
this thread is why forums suck. it's a chainguide put it on and ride it...they are all pretty much the same design
Just as long as it's a Straitline.
Yes really. You can honestly tell me that derailleur manufacturers have some super secret plastic that chain guide companies don't have? For the last 50 plus years? How come shimano can make a derailleur jockey wheel in plastic and have it last forever, but neither e13 nor mrp can build their stuff out of the same thing, or at least warranty it should something happen? I won't argue with you, buy the disposable ****, love it, whatever, but it's not for me.
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Dave Ive had similar issues as you, not so many but the origonal G2 36t-40t I replaced the bolts you over torqued, I didn't break anything but I did think quality of the bolts especialy the heads were crap and cheap for the price you pay for the guide which Im not moaning about, I just expect the price to relfect the quality, cost me a couple of bucks at a home depo, Ive had no issues since.
Ive replaced 2 lower roller guards, minor but dam expenvie each time for such a little hunk of plastic, but the guide has performed well, other wise I'm happy something fails if thats the design and its not my frame its a cheap failure if you look at it that way.
Still, now Im after a 32-36t to replace it and the Straitline is going on, Ive been so impressed with the ones Ive tried or seen and the comments on here only re-inforce it to me.
Sorry mr e13 and MRP but this time Im going Strait hook line and sinker.
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Chainlove is blowing out the Sunline V1 guide for $30 now.
I picked another one up for the trailbike, my '09 Trek Remedy does not have ISCG tabs (the Sunline comes mounted on an iscg adapter plate), and the lower guide rotating up and hitting/bending on the chainstay is a huge issue. The Sunline has a spring loaded lower roller, which I'm hoping will make the guide rotating on the BB a non-issue. It weighs more than the Straitline but if the spring loaded lower guide works like I think it will then it'll be worth the extra weigh and I also don't mind saving $100.
I picked another one up for the trailbike, my '09 Trek Remedy does not have ISCG tabs (the Sunline comes mounted on an iscg adapter plate), and the lower guide rotating up and hitting/bending on the chainstay is a huge issue. The Sunline has a spring loaded lower roller, which I'm hoping will make the guide rotating on the BB a non-issue. It weighs more than the Straitline but if the spring loaded lower guide works like I think it will then it'll be worth the extra weigh and I also don't mind saving $100.
How come e13 and mrp can make a taco or bash ring that I can hit on rocks yet when I go to hit my derailleur on a rock everything goes to hell?
useful information on ridemonkey!? thanks for the info I will look in to getting one of these.
Because it's not designed to bounce off rocks, whereas a bash guard is? But the pulley wheels in both items ARE designed to do the same thing, but are not both compatible with all chain lubes.How come e13 and mrp can make a taco or bash ring that I can hit on rocks yet when I go to hit my derailleur on a rock everything goes to hell?
Just to add to the fun, here's how you kill a LG1+:
The LG1+ was designed to do exactly that actually. Compress and crush, but not explode. You can both finish a race run that way, as well as not tear your leg apart on sharp plastic pieces.Just to add to the fun, here's how you kill a LG1+:
On another note, I put an XO guide on recently (an MRP g2 I think?) and it's been pretty flawless.
Yep. I just retightened the mounting bolts after it slipped, and it got me through the rest of the day. (Two of the ISCG bolts were bent!)
I didn't like this guide on my Intense. Big clearance issues that required Dremel action. The replacement is a MRP G2 SL that didn't need any modifications to fit...
It's worth noting that the SL design seems tougher than the original G2's taco. If I kill this, back to Gamut for me...
G2 SL is what has been rebranded the XO guide. Seems pretty solid. Did have the chain slip at one point and get loose on the chainring, but still tight in the idler pulley. That was weird.
I think that's what they are if you get them from Sram? 2012 MRP dealer cat. doesn't have any Sram branding in it. (yet)
I'm just sad they didn't have the carbon model in the ISCG 05 yet. Kinda wanted to see if I could hurt it...
I've had my chain slip off the front ring to the outside a couple times. I can't move either upper or lower guides in all the way to the correct position or they hit on the mounting tabs of my Shimino SLX crankset, so there is just enough room for the chain to bounce off.
The G2 mini functions ok, but needs some work on the details. Also, $14 + shipping to replace the lower guide plate is a huge rip off.
Just loving the Straitline Silent guide one of the best components Ive ever bought.
Totally awesome, totally silent and smooth riding in dry or wet ruddy awesome doesn't hang up on ****,
Cheers Straitline pure quality..
Totally awesome, totally silent and smooth riding in dry or wet ruddy awesome doesn't hang up on ****,
Cheers Straitline pure quality..
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