The M6 does not have 9.5" of travel.DirtyMike said:
could not believe m6 BB heigth
- Thread starter GPERKINS
- Start date
Just going off what most are saying about it, Just googled it, its officially 9.1 inches.... Still..... think about ground clearance of the bike. It sits friggin low, your going to hit your pedals/cranks.
Changed my guess's a bit in the last post, but still, think about.
Haha - if the geo is too low for your trails, style etc... don't buy one. Get a SOCOM or something instead. Variety in geometry is a good thing, just because something doesn't suit your needs doesn't mean there isn't a lot of people out there who the bike suits perfectly.
You decide that because a frame is too slack/low/high/steep/big/small/whatever for you and then extrapolate that to mean that it won't suit anyone? There are a lot of faster, slower, fatter and thinner guys getting these bikes through rough and rocky tracks all over the globe.
Bike geometry is always going to be about balance and compromise between certain handling aspects. If you want a high and steep bike, then I think Mountain Cycle is somehow still in business.
You decide that because a frame is too slack/low/high/steep/big/small/whatever for you and then extrapolate that to mean that it won't suit anyone? There are a lot of faster, slower, fatter and thinner guys getting these bikes through rough and rocky tracks all over the globe.
Bike geometry is always going to be about balance and compromise between certain handling aspects. If you want a high and steep bike, then I think Mountain Cycle is somehow still in business.
I am NOT saying the M6 is a bad bike. Its a world cup level bike. Its not for everyone. And yeah variety is a wonderfull thing.
My point was, that no mater what cranks you have on the M6, plan on hitting your pedals. Thats all, and if that bothers you, its not the bike for you, if it doesnt bother you, or your riding ability is to were your able to ride this bike without hitting your feet....Great....
My point was, that no mater what cranks you have on the M6, plan on hitting your pedals. Thats all, and if that bothers you, its not the bike for you, if it doesnt bother you, or your riding ability is to were your able to ride this bike without hitting your feet....Great....
Do I really need to draw a diagram of this? Crank length WILL matter when your feet are level and you're in a lean with obstacles on the ground. Think about it looking from the top. Tagging them less when you have to pedal would probably dramatically increase their lifespan too...
I didn't buy the bike for the low BB. I bought it for the 63.5 degree head angle, which is far more of an asset than a low BB could ever be. Whoever said that nobody needs those kinds of angles must not ever like riding fast or drifting. That's cool though.
I didn't buy the bike for the low BB. I bought it for the 63.5 degree head angle, which is far more of an asset than a low BB could ever be. Whoever said that nobody needs those kinds of angles must not ever like riding fast or drifting. That's cool though.
On the pedal clipping thing - I've had two decent smashes as a result of pedals digging in. Both cases were when the forward pedal hit a solid object and pushed the crank under the BB. When I hit the rear pedal, it normally just bounces off - but the front pedal can't so the results are usually worse.
Mike, . My point was that you can't rely on NOT having to pedal thru a rock garden. If the rock garden is big enough and doesn't have much vert, you're gonna have to pedal at some point; if you want to win anyway.
No 5mm ain't much. But anything can help. And if you compare in to a 175mm crank, which a lot of people run, you're getting closer to 3/8" difference.
Toodles makes a good point. And I was more commenting on the TREND to lower BB's (take the new superco, 13" even with 9" travel, but it is a proto). Not the M6 in particular. I'm sure there are people who can ride these geo's just fine. But my guess is a LOT of average Joe's are gonna buy these and regret it. I give it 2 more seasons. If it's the mainstream by then, I stand corrected.
No 5mm ain't much. But anything can help. And if you compare in to a 175mm crank, which a lot of people run, you're getting closer to 3/8" difference.
Toodles makes a good point. And I was more commenting on the TREND to lower BB's (take the new superco, 13" even with 9" travel, but it is a proto). Not the M6 in particular. I'm sure there are people who can ride these geo's just fine. But my guess is a LOT of average Joe's are gonna buy these and regret it. I give it 2 more seasons. If it's the mainstream by then, I stand corrected.
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Yeah I absolutly understand that during a race, thats why I wont pick on these super low super long travel bikes for racing purposes.
Hack, Let me make sure we are on teh same page abiout what level means.... When I say your cranks are level...... I mean parallel to the ground. Now please explain to me ow if your cranks are "parallel" to the ground, length will matter? If your parallel, your still the same height, at that point crank length wouldnt be a factor, and your also most likely about to be smashing our bashie as well.
If your thinking something else for level, please tell me so.
Hack, Let me make sure we are on teh same page abiout what level means.... When I say your cranks are level...... I mean parallel to the ground. Now please explain to me ow if your cranks are "parallel" to the ground, length will matter? If your parallel, your still the same height, at that point crank length wouldnt be a factor, and your also most likely about to be smashing our bashie as well.
If your thinking something else for level, please tell me so.
Irrelevant to the ground. Level with each other. Ride straight, keep your feet level, lean and don't move your feet. Straight legs = downforce.
Ok, I am following that. I still dont get where you get having your feet level crank length would make a difference. If your hanging one down<NOT LEVEL> then i see where your going to be smaking, and length will matter, if thre level, then your not any closer to the ground, your feet are further forward and back, or vice versa. clearance can only differ in the down stroke of the pedals. .
And again I ask, if your feet were level, and you hit your pedals, WHAT ELSE DID YOU HIT?
At that moment? Nothing. But I'm typically hitting the sides of the pedals often, and scraping the hell out of the front and sides of my shoes. Yay for Specialized shoes with semi-armored toes.
Think about turning along an arc and clearing objects towards your inside pedal. That's where the length difference comes in.
Well generally, WHen I am railing a long arc of a turn, I will ahve my outside foot, down, and a little bit forward, so yeah, its hanging down pretty far, and I can see smacking the hell out of it, which I myself did, which cost me a set of pedals.
I dont keep my feet level<least what I am thinking of as level> while turning, I drop the outside, little forward, and get my weight low, and push the bike into the ground hard.
What I am seeing in my head with what you described earlier, you had both feet level<in my mind, thats neither higher, nor lower than the other> and I just cant see how in that situation you can hit the pedals, without also hitting your bashie, possibly the downtube<depending on teh bike> and possibly suspension linage<again depends on the bike>.
I dont keep my feet level<least what I am thinking of as level> while turning, I drop the outside, little forward, and get my weight low, and push the bike into the ground hard.
What I am seeing in my head with what you described earlier, you had both feet level<in my mind, thats neither higher, nor lower than the other> and I just cant see how in that situation you can hit the pedals, without also hitting your bashie, possibly the downtube<depending on teh bike> and possibly suspension linage<again depends on the bike>.
5mm can be the difference between crashing or not, I'm sure my mate that just cracked the fins on a few of his lower vertibray wishes he had 165s over 170s.
Even with flat crank position, when angled down hill, the cranks aren't parallel to the ground, or when pedal kickback bucks them a touch(buy a better bike), or when they wobble about from rough ground. It'll be rare to clip a pedal on a flat smooth corner, and I don't think anyone is discussing that.
I'll be happy to stay above 14" with 8" + travel.
Even with flat crank position, when angled down hill, the cranks aren't parallel to the ground, or when pedal kickback bucks them a touch(buy a better bike), or when they wobble about from rough ground. It'll be rare to clip a pedal on a flat smooth corner, and I don't think anyone is discussing that.
I'll be happy to stay above 14" with 8" + travel.
DHR, MRP S3, nailed the non-drive side on an offcamber left hander.
Dusty flat corners are the only places I make an effort to drop a pedal to keep it hooked up. Otherwise I'm *trying to* keep my feet level and heels down.
Dusty flat corners are the only places I make an effort to drop a pedal to keep it hooked up. Otherwise I'm *trying to* keep my feet level and heels down.
Ok, I follow now. Which foot do you normally have forward wen your not dropping a foot? the inside, or the outside?
My right foot.
So left or right hand turn, its always your right foot?
Yes.
Watch Shaums ride. Or Hill for that matter.
Watch Shaums ride. Or Hill for that matter.
Alright, I feel ya bro, dont go getting overly defensive. Ride how you like, I am just trying to figure exactly what ours saying, that is all.
The part I am still wondering about, with your feet the way you ride, hitting your pedal<I am assuming the right side seeing how you always have it forward> and not hitting anything else, like the Bashguard, which at that point is closer to the ground than the pedal is. Or is it that youjust didn notice hitting the bashguard after that?
The part I am still wondering about, with your feet the way you ride, hitting your pedal<I am assuming the right side seeing how you always have it forward> and not hitting anything else, like the Bashguard, which at that point is closer to the ground than the pedal is. Or is it that youjust didn notice hitting the bashguard after that?
Not getting defensive, just have my hands full at the moment.
I hit both about equally as much. Always ride right food forward. It was a left hand off camber turn that took off the left pedal. As for the bash, the one side of it is always taking a beating so I don't really notice any new hits on it. It wasn't closer to the rock on the left anyway.
I hit both about equally as much. Always ride right food forward. It was a left hand off camber turn that took off the left pedal. As for the bash, the one side of it is always taking a beating so I don't really notice any new hits on it. It wasn't closer to the rock on the left anyway.
Alright, I can see that then.
But I still stand on that in your situation, longer or shorter cranks wouldnt have mattered, you still would have hit the pedal.
But I still stand on that in your situation, longer or shorter cranks wouldnt have mattered, you still would have hit the pedal.
low speed compression and anti squat make low bb heights more feasible. Every frame behaves differently with respect to ride height as does every shock and every shock tune. BB heights are relevant to the rest of the setup and can't be taken out of context, imo.
I sometimes hit both heels/pedals and the bash on the ground but it is always in the same bermed corner. I can't set my bike up for one corner. It is all about compromises. Try and understand the most you can about all the variables and make the least amount of compromises as possible.
I sometimes hit both heels/pedals and the bash on the ground but it is always in the same bermed corner. I can't set my bike up for one corner. It is all about compromises. Try and understand the most you can about all the variables and make the least amount of compromises as possible.
What is the BB height on an M6 with the non world cup drop outs?
I too am "creeped out" by the low BB trend. I have about a 14.1" BB on my racelink with 9" of travel and 24" tires. Even at that height, I clip the chainring on lots of obstacles (rocks, trees, etc.). I don't really have a problem with dropping pedals in turns, but I do occasionally clip rocks going through gardens and such. I was really excited about the new superbro bike but at 13.5" with 9" of travel still, it's going to be a rough ride. I really hope that it's either adjustable or the production values are slightly higher. I would consider a bike like the sunday as it has less travel, but with 9" and knowing the amount of sag typical of these bikes...yikes. I'm sure it corners better, but at what price?
1/2" less travel won't make much difference.
Try 26" wheels...
Try 26" wheels...
I have, until they gave out and it was not ride or use the 24"s. I would imagine a full 1" will, however. Still, .5" is .5" higher off the ground.
I rode my m6 last season with the world cup dropouts witch are lower than the new stock ones. It was not that bad as long as you did not pedal through anything to rocky. Now i have 165 saints on it but have not ridin it yet bootleg will be the first time on 165's. The m6 is one of the best bikes i have owned. I came off of a m3 and a sunday.
Fail? haha
So who's foot was where when which pedal hit that rock? Also which drop-out's were being used to get the BB to what height?
Yesterday or last night?
Yesterday or last night?
13.5" I believe, from the LitterMag audio.
Also has 3/8" of adjustability via the eccentric BB. But that will affect your non-drive side chain tension.
You put your left leg in
You put your left leg out
You put your left leg in
And you shake it all about.
You do the Hokey Pokey and you turn yourself around
That's what it's all about...
Ooooh, the hokey cokey.....
im in the UK, its always just been known as the hokey cokey
this little rendition is my persnal fav...
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=LKtxg1D7vZw&feature=related
this little rendition is my persnal fav...
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=LKtxg1D7vZw&feature=related
I came from a Versus Weapon X which has a 16BB and so I thought I might not like how low the M6 was but after I got it and started riding I didn't really notice that much. I do bang the cranks from time to time but not nearly as much as I thought I would. Also after riding a section at least once or twice I can get the hang of where the crank banging rocks are and it has become almost subconscious to adjust for them. Also I have one of the first ones that shipped which has the lower dropouts so a BB height in the low 13 range. I believe they are now shipping with the adjusted dropout to bring the height back up to 14. I ordered these taller dropouts but have never bothered to put them on as I like the bike so much as it sits now. I should also note that I am using 170mm cranks. I totally love this bike.