Custom 2012 TRANSITION TR450
- Thread starter Villas
- Start date
Love it. Even the dude's sweater matches. And love the uber clean shop.
Matching colors always reminds of something like this where soccer mom plays stylist
or this
or this
I always wanted to do a build with that acid green ano colour, but its so hard to come by
looks fantastic
So are the green links and decals not a standard option? Did you get Transition to do them or an outside anodizer and graphics person.
looks awesome. l like the ano green suspenion links
when you get links or other parts anodized, does it add to the thickness of the part?
Depends on what you do before you anodize the part. For example if it is chemically stripped prior to anodizing (necessary if the part is already anodized for example) then the re-anodized part will actually have lost material - thus be thinner - than the original part. Because the anodizing is essentially part of the aluminium, to remove it you must remove some of the original material as well.
The anodizing itself only adds microns of thickness, not enough to affect anything I've seen, but the stripping process can result in significant enough losses to cause play in parts if you aren't careful.
Yeah I heard about a guy that removed the anodising on a headset with chemicals and it removed so much of the material that the headset wouldn't sit properly in the frame.
If you remove anodising from a bearing seat (probably likely on swingarms, links, etc) and re-anodise you can expect the diameter to open up by around 10-20 microns. Depending on the original tolerances of the item in question, this could end up presenting a bit of a problem.
As staike says, the same thing would happen on the external surfaces, however it is possible to mask areas from being stripped/anodised. Don't think it's a common practice though and requires 2-3 layers of a lacquer applied to the area to be masked (and isn't easy to get right)
As staike says, the same thing would happen on the external surfaces, however it is possible to mask areas from being stripped/anodised. Don't think it's a common practice though and requires 2-3 layers of a lacquer applied to the area to be masked (and isn't easy to get right)
At 10-20 microns wouldn't loctite for bearings be more than enough to fix that? Honest question, not being a smart ass...
I bought a tR450, trying to color code it, but not to that extend. Thats phenominal
yup, the right loctite might be fine (can't remember which one would do the job right now, too many numberz!)
What is custom about it? New geo?
Yeah loctite 609 retaining compound (green liquid) does the trick and will fix most problems, but keep in mind it's not just bearing seats that can suffer - so can threads, and links that rely on tight tolerances with mating shafts.
In my experience there's not much that the right loctite product can't fix (i.e. all of the above), but it is still a hassle - long cure times (24-48h) require patience, and disassembly can be more difficult later.
In my experience there's not much that the right loctite product can't fix (i.e. all of the above), but it is still a hassle - long cure times (24-48h) require patience, and disassembly can be more difficult later.
i was thinking the same thing. by the OP standards, pretty much every bike on the planet is a custom one...
I'm really disappointed that you couldn't get the CCDB anodized to match the rest of the stuff. Posting this bike really isn't worth it till that gets taken care of. 
Just kidding of course, that looks awesome!!
Just kidding of course, that looks awesome!!
I think the use of "custom" for "bike built up from parts" is from BMX land.
It is to differentiate from "stock" or "complete," since usually the complete bikes have a lower quality frame, etc.
But I too find it annoying and misleading, since putting a set of ProTapers on a stock Giant DH bike doesn't make it custom.
It is to differentiate from "stock" or "complete," since usually the complete bikes have a lower quality frame, etc.
But I too find it annoying and misleading, since putting a set of ProTapers on a stock Giant DH bike doesn't make it custom.
And before anyone comments, yes I ride a pair of protapers: one for each of my "forks."
Ano thickness also depends on how long they leave it in the tank (and what spec is used). I have made parts, then had them anodized, and the threads became undersize and had to re-tap them post anodizing (not good for threads or tap). When dealing w/ a press fit bearing bore this can be a problem. You can also have an area masked so it does not get anodized (just like w/ painting).
Yeah, it gets sketchy if you strip the ano and re-do it in another color. Depending on how the stripping is done, a lot of material can be lost. I have seen threads that basically look like they melted after stripping & re-ano!
or this?
