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RideMonkey
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Should I use Loctite on the 6 bolts? Or will greased bolts be OK?
Also - loctite on the 2 caliper bolts?
Thanks
Also - loctite on the 2 caliper bolts?
Thanks
Originally posted by RideMonkey
Should I use Loctite on the 6 bolts? Or will greased bolts be OK?
Also - loctite on the 2 caliper bolts?
Thanks
If I tried that where I live, they'd be rusted / siezed by the next time I had to replace a rotor!! Wet, wet, muddy and wet! That and I go through rotors faster than I'd care to admit!:devil:Originally posted by Certified Drunk
Dont use grease or loctite, Install them dry. I have never had any problems coming lose or remove them.
Just got some Hope MinisOriginally posted by Shibby
what kinda brakes do you run, rm?
Are you gonna tell us what there on ?Originally posted by RideMonkey
Just got some Hope Minis
Aren't the rotor bolts steel into aluminium too? Unless RM's running some lovely steel hubs?Originally posted by Mtn Pete
Blue loc-tite 242 removable on the rotor bolts, then use an air wrench to put them in. They will never loosen on you. Always run the capiler bolts dry. Its steel into alum. and it stays together itself. No grease or it will lossen up on you.
Yeah what he said...actually I spoke to a friend of mine at Hayes and he says never use locktite on their brakes but I don't know about Hopes....DOriginally posted by KonaDude
I grease all my bolts and never have a problem with them coming loose. Greasing bolts allows proper torque to be reached. Dry fasteners will have higher torque readings (whether they be by hand or by torque wrench) for lower actual tensions in the bolt. Lubrication on the threads will allow proper actual torque to be reached, creating proper tension on the bolt. Friction will hold the assembly together.
Rotor bolts generally come loose once after installation due to settling between the rotor, hub, and fasteners. This is to be expected, so go ride then come home and check the bolts. Maybe bring an L-shaped Torx wrench with you on the first few rides.
Grease all bolts, torque them properly, and check them a few times after the installation. That's standard procedure for me.
Loctite is nice, but it's definitely not necessary for most bike stuff. To me it seems like a bandaid for lack of maintenance (no offence to loctite users out there).
I'd suggest grease in the future.
Maybe Nobody can come post here and describe why greasing threads is a good plan in most cases better than I can.
If you have the clearance, you can use some lock washers.Originally posted by Yeti DHer
Whats wrong with my bolts if my Rear bolts on the rotor have competley unscrewed. The Disc wiggles so much. SO I tightend them, but what do i do to stop them from getting loose?
that is a very good idea!Originally posted by Brian HCM#1
If you have the clearance, you can use some lock washers.
I would probably stick with steel bolts, they do come in allen heads, Hope uses them. Aluminum bolts of that size kinda scares me.Originally posted by Shibby
that is a very good idea!
btw - would i be OK using some allen-bolt-head aluminum bolts (the big box in the shop variety) instead of the torx thingies? they thread in properly, but will they shear or anything?
thanks... just looking for a way to carry one less tool
No aluminum, at all. The bolts that come with most brakes are specifically made for them. While the thread pitch and diameter might be the same, the strength of the bolts will not be. Torx bolts allow much higher torque to be applied too. It's like the difference between square taper cranks and ISIS cranks. Torx is sort of a spline, allows really high torque.Originally posted by Shibby
that is a very good idea!
btw - would i be OK using some allen-bolt-head aluminum bolts (the big box in the shop variety) instead of the torx thingies? they thread in properly, but will they shear or anything?
thanks... just looking for a way to carry one less tool
Loc-Tite blue is nice.Oldfart bashed some keys and wrote
We also discovered it tastes really sweet. Guess how. phhhhhhttt! cough cough.
Engine assembly lubricant is only intended as temporary protection until an engine fires up and the lube system starts to work. Why in the world would it be appropriate for assemblies exposed to weather?Originally posted by robsta
Anything Alu-mini-um or high torque I prefer to use Engine Assembly Lube.
Oh ohOriginally posted by RideMonkey
From the Hope tech:
No Loctite. No grease.
Electrolysis !!Originally posted by RideMonkey
From the Hope tech:
No Loctite. No grease.
Thats what I would have thought too. I'd like to get the official word from Hayes also.Originally posted by Dropking
so no loctite, no grease for hayes rotors? Its hard to crank the bolts with out any lubricant... it feels lke im over-torquing it when the bolts arent even all the way in.
I agree...My bikeshop got a letter from Hayes stating that they should NOT use Loctite or use grease on their rotor bolts. To "dry" tighten the bolts.Originally posted by Brian HCM#1
NO Loc-tite on the rotor bolts ever!!!!!!! I use a light drop of grease and had never had a bolt loose on my bikes or bikes/brakes I've sold EVER. Rotor bolts often are a bitch to remove w/out loc-tite, imagine with the stuff. :angry: I've seen enough when people strip the heads of the bolts, you are asking for trouble.