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RideMonkey
Guest
Should I use Loctite on the 6 bolts? Or will greased bolts be OK?
Also - loctite on the 2 caliper bolts?
Thanks
Also - loctite on the 2 caliper bolts?
Thanks
I vote Loctite on everything. I've bought many a set and they ALL come with Loctite on the rotor bolts and caliper mount bolts. I've heard of people's rotor bolts coming loose, so I don't think that's an area where I would mess around, you know? Cover your ass; the stakes are very high....
____________________
~Dan
I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the
morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day.
-Frank Sinatra
Big John saved my life!
____________________
~Dan
I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the
morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day.
-Frank Sinatra
Big John saved my life!
The bolts should come prepped. But otherwise, I'd have top agree with Sub6 here. I used greese on some re-used bolts and the suckers kept coming loose on me. NO FUN!!
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Gutty
Guest
I pulled my fork down this week to find one of my brake mount bolts so lose it had moved back and forth so much it wore out half the thread.
I didn't use loctite.
I will when it goes back together.
I didn't use loctite.
I will when it goes back together.
loctite on rotor bolts, caliper mount bolts, and all things brake-related
except if you manage to strip one of the rotor bolt threads in the specialized 20mm thru-axle hub... then use grease...
i'm not bitter!
what kinda brakes do you run, rm?
except if you manage to strip one of the rotor bolt threads in the specialized 20mm thru-axle hub... then use grease...
i'm not bitter!
what kinda brakes do you run, rm?
Originally posted by RideMonkey
Should I use Loctite on the 6 bolts? Or will greased bolts be OK?
Also - loctite on the 2 caliper bolts?
Thanks
Dont use grease or loctite, Install them dry. I have never had any problems coming lose or remove them.
If I tried that where I live, they'd be rusted / siezed by the next time I had to replace a rotor!! Wet, wet, muddy and wet! That and I go through rotors faster than I'd care to admit!:devil:
Loctite, specif. blue.
Clean all surfaces well first, buy a can of the LocTite primer, follow instructions.
Read the brake manual and use-a-torque-wrench! Read the torque wrench manual too.
J
Clean all surfaces well first, buy a can of the LocTite primer, follow instructions.
Read the brake manual and use-a-torque-wrench! Read the torque wrench manual too.
J
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RideMonkey
Guest
Just got some Hope Minis
loc-tite or dry. I'd avoid grease as it breaks down from the heat and bits will start coming loose.
NO Loc-tite on the rotor bolts ever!!!!!!! I use a light drop of grease and had never had a bolt loose on my bikes or bikes/brakes I've sold EVER. Rotor bolts often are a bitch to remove w/out loc-tite, imagine with the stuff. :angry: I've seen enough when people strip the heads of the bolts, you are asking for trouble.
:angry: I've seen enough when people strip the heads of the bolts, you are asking for trouble.
G
Gutty
Guest
Are you gonna tell us what there on ?Originally posted by RideMonkey
Just got some Hope Minis
Aren't the rotor bolts steel into aluminium too? Unless RM's running some lovely steel hubs?
I would use a little grease.If you put them in dry the aluminium of the hub will corrode and sieze.Loc-tite isn't a good idea either.If you can't get your rotor off when you need to (like for a wheel rebuild or to replace a spoke) there'll be tears before bed time.
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RideMonkey
Guest
1. Dry? DRY? Isn't it in the mechanics 101 book that every thread should be treated in some way??
2. I used loctite. So if I can't get my rotors off I'm going to be knocking on some doors.
2. I used loctite. So if I can't get my rotors off I'm going to be knocking on some doors.
I grease all my bolts and never have a problem with them coming loose. Greasing bolts allows proper torque to be reached. Dry fasteners will have higher torque readings (whether they be by hand or by torque wrench) for lower actual tensions in the bolt. Lubrication on the threads will allow proper actual torque to be reached, creating proper tension on the bolt. Friction will hold the assembly together.
Rotor bolts generally come loose once after installation due to settling between the rotor, hub, and fasteners. This is to be expected, so go ride then come home and check the bolts. Maybe bring an L-shaped Torx wrench with you on the first few rides.
Grease all bolts, torque them properly, and check them a few times after the installation. That's standard procedure for me.
Loctite is nice, but it's definitely not necessary for most bike stuff. To me it seems like a bandaid for lack of maintenance (no offence to loctite users out there).
I'd suggest grease in the future.
Maybe Nobody can come post here and describe why greasing threads is a good plan in most cases better than I can.
Rotor bolts generally come loose once after installation due to settling between the rotor, hub, and fasteners. This is to be expected, so go ride then come home and check the bolts. Maybe bring an L-shaped Torx wrench with you on the first few rides.
Grease all bolts, torque them properly, and check them a few times after the installation. That's standard procedure for me.
Loctite is nice, but it's definitely not necessary for most bike stuff. To me it seems like a bandaid for lack of maintenance (no offence to loctite users out there).
I'd suggest grease in the future.
Maybe Nobody can come post here and describe why greasing threads is a good plan in most cases better than I can.
The only caveat Konadude is "unless the manufacturer recommends otherwise" Usually one should apply grease or anti seize between parts. Tapers on bb's should be dry or very lightly greased. Seat posts need grease unless its Campy Record Carbon which should go in the frame dry and the manual says never lubricate the saddle clamp bolt which is aluminum. I use purple locktite with no problems at all. But that's a lightweight thread lock. Locktite also protects against corrosion like grease as it fills all the micro voids and then hardens to "lock" the fastener. A lot of bike parts come with thread lock on them from the factory, like canti studs and canti bolts. Bottom brackets too. Some combinations of parts create vibrations which cause bolts to loosen. Locktite is a valid way to prevent it. Many people incorrectly beleive that locktite permanently bonds parts. Only if you use the wrong grade for the parts you're using. We used it to hold nipples when wheel building. Works well. Not all builders believe in it. That's fine but it doesn't mean using it is wrong. We also discovered it tastes really sweet. Guess how. phhhhhhttt! cough cough.
Yeah what he said...actually I spoke to a friend of mine at Hayes and he says never use locktite on their brakes but I don't know about Hopes....D
Whats wrong with my bolts if my Rear bolts on the rotor have competley unscrewed. The Disc wiggles so much. SO I tightend them, but what do i do to stop them from getting loose?
If you have the clearance, you can use some lock washers.
that is a very good idea!
btw - would i be OK using some allen-bolt-head aluminum bolts (the big box in the shop variety) instead of the torx thingies? they thread in properly, but will they shear or anything?
thanks... just looking for a way to carry one less tool
I would probably stick with steel bolts, they do come in allen heads, Hope uses them. Aluminum bolts of that size kinda scares me.Originally posted by Shibby
that is a very good idea!
btw - would i be OK using some allen-bolt-head aluminum bolts (the big box in the shop variety) instead of the torx thingies? they thread in properly, but will they shear or anything?
thanks... just looking for a way to carry one less tool
No aluminum, at all. The bolts that come with most brakes are specifically made for them. While the thread pitch and diameter might be the same, the strength of the bolts will not be. Torx bolts allow much higher torque to be applied too. It's like the difference between square taper cranks and ISIS cranks. Torx is sort of a spline, allows really high torque.Originally posted by Shibby
that is a very good idea!
btw - would i be OK using some allen-bolt-head aluminum bolts (the big box in the shop variety) instead of the torx thingies? they thread in properly, but will they shear or anything?
thanks... just looking for a way to carry one less tool
Loc-Tite blue is nice.
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RideMonkey
Guest
From the Hope tech:
No Loctite. No grease.
No Loctite. No grease.
Anything Alu-mini-um or high torque I prefer to use Engine Assembly Lube.
Engine assembly lubricant is only intended as temporary protection until an engine fires up and the lube system starts to work. Why in the world would it be appropriate for assemblies exposed to weather?Originally posted by robsta
Anything Alu-mini-um or high torque I prefer to use Engine Assembly Lube.
RM did the right thing. He talked to the factory and followed their instructions.
R-T-F-M!
J
Oh ohOriginally posted by RideMonkey
From the Hope tech:
No Loctite. No grease.
G
Gutty
Guest
Electrolysis !!Originally posted by RideMonkey
From the Hope tech:
No Loctite. No grease.
so no loctite, no grease for hayes rotors? Its hard to crank the bolts with out any lubricant... it feels lke im over-torquing it when the bolts arent even all the way in.
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RideMonkey
Guest
Thats what I would have thought too. I'd like to get the official word from Hayes also.
I agree...My bikeshop got a letter from Hayes stating that they should NOT use Loctite or use grease on their rotor bolts. To "dry" tighten the bolts.Originally posted by Brian HCM#1
NO Loc-tite on the rotor bolts ever!!!!!!! I use a light drop of grease and had never had a bolt loose on my bikes or bikes/brakes I've sold EVER. Rotor bolts often are a bitch to remove w/out loc-tite, imagine with the stuff.
< firm believer in loctite...
the purple or blue doesn't lock the bolts in so hard that you have to break em to remove them (contrary to popular belief) and it does prevent the bolts from seizing inside (it fills the voids and prevents moisture from entering) I've used the stuff for years on everything from aircraft to boats to automotive to (now) bikes. You take yer chances if you go against the manufacturer's recommendations but yer askin for trouble if you put all your bolts in dry. There are some lubes out there that contain teflon, which will remain long after the grease is gone, making disassembly much easier (and i don't know too many people who never need to remove broken parts of their mountain bikes)
My Bullitt came outta the box with blue loctite on the rotor bolts (maybe Santa Cruz knows something that Hayes is in denial about?)
... 'nother quick comment on the rotors... Make sure you torque all the bolts evenly, uneven torque can actually warp the rotors (heck, it even happens on some automotive rotors!)
the purple or blue doesn't lock the bolts in so hard that you have to break em to remove them (contrary to popular belief) and it does prevent the bolts from seizing inside (it fills the voids and prevents moisture from entering) I've used the stuff for years on everything from aircraft to boats to automotive to (now) bikes. You take yer chances if you go against the manufacturer's recommendations but yer askin for trouble if you put all your bolts in dry. There are some lubes out there that contain teflon, which will remain long after the grease is gone, making disassembly much easier (and i don't know too many people who never need to remove broken parts of their mountain bikes)
My Bullitt came outta the box with blue loctite on the rotor bolts (maybe Santa Cruz knows something that Hayes is in denial about?)
... 'nother quick comment on the rotors... Make sure you torque all the bolts evenly, uneven torque can actually warp the rotors (heck, it even happens on some automotive rotors!)