Does this dropper post make me look fat? AKA - Which droppers don't suck?
- Thread starter Kanye West
- Start date
Dunno about anyone else but before droppers I used a QR seat collar and slammed my saddle for anything fun. Jumps/descents.
The distance between that seatpost at full pedalling height and fully slammed was 230mm.
I currently have a 250mm dropper on order to fit to my 4X hardtail so it can be slammed or pedalled quicker.
Maybe it's just me but I find manualling with your seatpost dropped just 150mm pretty horrible.
As for what post to buy. really depends how much money you have to spunk on ONE seatpost
Here in the UK a 170mm reverb stealth is £170
A Bikeyoke Revive is £405.
No matter how nice a 160mm self bleeding dropper is 2 x 170mm reverbs and £65 for beer n weed is gonna win that arguement every day.
Most of my reverbs have been fine until some bawbag decides to lift my bike by the saddle when it's dropped introducing the dreaded sag they all eventually suffer from. But once that happens it's a simple warranty job.
hate to break it to you, but 4x is dead.
I like where this thread is going.
(like all threads about droppers, everywhere)
(like all threads about droppers, everywhere)
I've no idea who Sarah Palin is but yeah. maybe a bit like it.
In Australia the 170mm Reverb is $549 and that's with the stupid plunger remote. The 160 BikeYoke is $414, the 170mm is $509. I dunno why the BikeYoke is so expensive in the UK?
can I still tell you about my 11+ year old dropper thats needed a single part replaced and has never failed by any definition? temperature, elevation, position when hung or picked up by the saddle - none of these things matter. it's 100% self serviceable at home in minutes and does what every other dropper does (it goes up and down when I press a lever) except give me problems. oh wait...
hmmm...what lotto numbers should I pick and what brand of prophylactics should I not buy?
Just buy my jammed specialized command post and we'll call it even.
I'm still loving all four of my 9point8s. I have a 5", 6", 7", and 8". The 8" has the Raceface shifter style remote, the others have 9point8's shifter style remote. I'm happy with both. The 9point8 remote is lighter but it tends to fray cables once a season. About twice a year I unscrew the collar and give them a wipe & grease but that's it for maintanence.
Xfusion Manic? Supposedly available in 150 now. I've been on the 125 version for most of the season and it's been solid. Easy to install, nice adjustable remote, and zero slop after several hundred trail miles. It's a little portly, but I can live with the weight given the sub $200 price tag.
So for anyone who has been wondering what overpriced strut I've decided to shove up my ass (which I can only assume is all of you), it's a Fox Transfer....mostly because I can get them. Tried to get a Bike Yoke but they vanish from BTI within seconds of being in stock. I don't need to compete for the privilege of paying hundreds of dollars to shove something in my ass. That's where I draw the line.
You can order the bikeyoke direct from Yurp, that's what I did both times.
I have a revive. It's pretty sweet. I don't know much about much but it works and doesn't stop working so that's good enough for me
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Dropper remotes. Which ones can be purchased aftermarket that allows the loose end of the cable to run through it? The wolf tooth would be nice, but I'd prefer not to sell my right nut for something as simple as that lever.
if you're referring the the end of the cable without the anchor, you can buy the e13 TRS remote by itself, but pricing is on par with wolftooth.
https://bythehive.com/collections/seatpost/products/trs-1x-lever
I'm not positive but I think this one is similar to the wolf tooth
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/command-post-srl-le/p/129779
Looking at pics of some of these, I wish to god these fools would realize that traction on your thumb is a bad thing. It needs to slide across your thumb, not stick to it. Wolftooth included.
I like the Bontrager remote too. They could make it a little lighter without compromising strength tho...
But the dropper? The Drop Line
Mine died after a few months of use in muddy condition even after repacking it with fresh grease now and then...
I got a new one with an improved seal under warranty. The seal is now higher and has a spring around it like the stanchion seals sitting on a fork. It could be better or it could not... if somebody has some experience with it, I would be happy to hear more about it
But the dropper? The Drop Line
Mine died after a few months of use in muddy condition even after repacking it with fresh grease now and then...
I got a new one with an improved seal under warranty. The seal is now higher and has a spring around it like the stanchion seals sitting on a fork. It could be better or it could not... if somebody has some experience with it, I would be happy to hear more about it
I have lots experience with it. Pretty much all of the old style Drop line post have failed for the riders who put some hours in muddy conditions. But the new ones not only have a better seal but also a better coating apparently. Haven't had any problems on the new style dropper. We sponsor some really good riders at my shop and they put lots and lots of miles on them and no problems yet. Hopefully all will be good now.
and Trek has been really good with sending out replacements.
Actually if the grooves ran horizontally it might be ok. Would stop it slipping up or down but still let it slide when you pressed it.
I actually used to wonder why the pros ran grip tape on levers and shifter paddles till one horrendous muddy ride.
Way back I used to run 4 narrow zipties round each grip with the griping part placed so i could still hold on in really wet riding conditions. Uncomortable but it worked.
Never really bothered about grip on gearshifters too much. When it's that wet caring about what gear the bike's in is pretty low priority.
Never really bothered about grip on gearshifters too much. When it's that wet caring about what gear the bike's in is pretty low priority.
But there's no way your thumb is going to, nor would you want it to stick in one place. The lever moves into and away from your thumb. I'd never given a thought using a smooth south paw for years. Then I got a wolftooth one and it makes it harder to swing the lever to where it needs to go. Because it wants to stick.
The real Gravity Dropper, and it's only $24.95! 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Roughneck-Crusher-Brutal-Ball-Penis-Stretcher-Weight-FREE-SHIPPING/263453338820?hash=item3d570aecc4:g:b8wAAOSw~rpZVEAS
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Roughneck-Crusher-Brutal-Ball-Penis-Stretcher-Weight-FREE-SHIPPING/263453338820?hash=item3d570aecc4:g:b8wAAOSw~rpZVEAS
Thanks guys. Finding the Bontrager one wasn't that easy. On their website they only list the over-the-top lever, not the shifter type. It seems that the shifter type is only sold with the post. But I did find one on eBay for $20 in original packaging with a cable and bar mount. I looked at the Specialized one, but the bar mount is sold separately.
They're sold separately over here
https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/seatposts-seat-clamps-c86/drop-line-dropper-seatpost-under-bar-lever-p17260
https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/seatposts-seat-clamps-c86/drop-line-dropper-seatpost-under-bar-lever-p17260