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Dr. Science Incredible - Angleset Hackjob?

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,106
6,048
borcester rhymes
So the angleset works by having a stationary lower cup and "moveable" upper cups. Since they are independent of headtube length, meaning the gimbals adjust, could you use a 1.5* upper and 1.0* lower to get an even slacker HA?

Just curious, for the sake of SCIENCE.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,106
6,048
borcester rhymes
similar concept but on a dual 1.5" headtube. I have extra cups lying around (1* and 0.5*), and have the 1.5* installed. I'm just curious as to whether there's any reason I can't invert my 1* cup and install it in the bottom (like different curvatures or material restrictions).

Genuinely just curious....I don't need nor want a 62.5* HA right now, but it might be fun to experiment with in the future, especially in a blind format.
 

zdubyadubya

Turbo Monkey
Apr 13, 2008
1,273
96
Ellicott City, MD
Yes! You can. I did the same thing for kicks. Have a full 1.5 HT cannondale prophet. Put in the 1.5* on bottom and the 1.0* on top. Dropped the HA to 65.0 and the bb to 13" flat. bike turned into quite the little ripper. totally useless for trail riding but quite fun for dinkin around. :D
 

EVIL JN

Monkey
Jul 24, 2009
491
24
I've had the same thought for a while, now since its confirmed that it works maybe i should take my 2011 demo down to 61.5 ha and drop the bb even further :pilot:
 

Pegboy

Turbo Monkey
Jan 20, 2003
1,139
27
New Hamp-sha
Having just installed mine, I believe the lower cup is deeper than the upper cups. I'm not sure if this makes a difference or not but I would also think there would be a point where the gimble binds..again just speculating.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,106
6,048
borcester rhymes
Yes! You can. I did the same thing for kicks. Have a full 1.5 HT cannondale prophet. Put in the 1.5* on bottom and the 1.0* on top. Dropped the HA to 65.0 and the bb to 13" flat. bike turned into quite the little ripper. totally useless for trail riding but quite fun for dinkin around. :D
that's awesome! and you didn't die, so that's good. any reason for the 1.5 on the bottom vs. top?

I don't think I could ever eek any advantage out of a sub 63 HA, but I'd love to play with it for testing purposes. I think it would be neat to line up experienced riders and then switch out one thing at a time and see if they can pick up on it, whatever it is. See how times vary, etc.
 

Scrub

Turbo Monkey
Feb 4, 2003
1,454
120
NOR CAL, Sac/CoCo County
I'm not sure if this makes a difference or not but I would also think there would be a point where the gimble binds..again just speculating.
Yeah that got me thinking about binding too, but if its on a dc fork where there is only minimal degrees of rotation as opposed to doing barspins and tailwhips on a single crown for I wouldn't think of it as a big problem. Not that I'm going to go out and try it, just sayin'.
 

zdubyadubya

Turbo Monkey
Apr 13, 2008
1,273
96
Ellicott City, MD
Not dead as far as I can tell. :D

Ran the 1.5 on bottom because with a standard CC AngleSet you run the 1.5 on the bottom and the zero on top. Since I ride the bike with the 1.5 normally (turned the bike into perfection in my eyes for the riding I do), it was easiest to just switch out one cup instead of both.

to address pegboy's thoughts, I did notice that the gimbles sit at a pretty extreme angle to the cup but still within the smooth machined surface so i figured all was okay. I made sure to use the bottom cups (1* and 1.5*) on both top and bottom. also, the cannondale has a pretty long headtube so that might help things. when everything was all together there wasn't any binding that I could tell. However, the steering got kinda funny. The further you turned in one direction or another the bars got more difficult to turn (but barely perceptible). not enough that it actually pinched or binded, but enough that you could feel it (but not while riding--only in the stand). I could compare it to having a slightly sticky bearing. the top caps of my fork legs prevent the bars from spinning all the way around (hit the downtube) so there isnt any way to tell if this problem gets worse if it spins full circle but it was something that i noticed.

that's awesome! and you didn't die, so that's good. any reason for the 1.5 on the bottom vs. top?

I don't think I could ever eek any advantage out of a sub 63 HA, but I'd love to play with it for testing purposes. I think it would be neat to line up experienced riders and then switch out one thing at a time and see if they can pick up on it, whatever it is. See how times vary, etc.
 

IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
Ran the 1.5 on bottom because with a standard CC AngleSet you run the 1.5 on the bottom and the zero on top....
I did notice that the gimbles sit at a pretty extreme angle to the cup but still within the smooth machined surface so i figured all was okay.
you should go back and re-read the instructions or watch the install videos

also if the gimbles arent level, then you will have problems with "popping"

edit: the "stickyness" you feel is the setup binding b/c of in-proper install
 
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zdubyadubya

Turbo Monkey
Apr 13, 2008
1,273
96
Ellicott City, MD
am I missing something? I thought the zero cup went in the bottom and the "angled" cups went up top.
you should go back and re-read the instructions or watch the install videos

also if the gimbles arent level, then you will have problems with "popping"
heheheh.... :rofl: :rofl: i will. typing this from work and that is how i remembered it. but i put it together with the instructions in front of me so pretty sure i did it right when i installed it 3 months ago. will have to check tonight to make sure. sorry for the confusion. don't have any "popping" at all during any ride so that must mean i did it right then and just have a horrible memory.
 

Pegboy

Turbo Monkey
Jan 20, 2003
1,139
27
New Hamp-sha
Yep, your angled cups go up top which makes it "easier" to change out between them. The bottom cup is deeper, which I assume is due to the fact that more force is translated through the bottom of the headset than the top...at least that's how it seems in my head and I believe the instructions state that the deeper cup goes in the bottom.