Dual middle chainring 34t or 36t ?
- Thread starter keen
- Start date
I find on my bike at times even 36T could have a few more teeth. 22/36 is my vote
22/36
remember, e13 has odd number rings available.
Ive been running a 35t for a while and have no complaints
Ive been running a 35t for a while and have no complaints
Did you read the title? e13 guiderings are for single ring applications - no ramps or pins for shifting.remember, e13 has odd number rings available.
Ive been running a 35t for a while and have no complaints
36T is my vote. I've been running them forever and started out with 26/38T but eventually settled on 24/36T, you lose gears you'd rarely or never use with a traditional triple MTB gearing.
24/36.
hammerschmidt.
I was running a 24/36 with an 11-32 cassette on my CoilAir. Then I realized the point of a granny gear is to go up retardedly steep climbs - so I put an 11-34 cassette on and now I even I'm going to go down to a 22T granny.
I'm in the 36 most of the time, except when I need that really, really low gear.
I'm rambling but my vote is 22/36.
Yes or Hammerschmidt.
I'm in the 36 most of the time, except when I need that really, really low gear.
I'm rambling but my vote is 22/36.
Yes or Hammerschmidt.
I think that it's alot to do with fitness myself... So, how fit are you?
15 stone of fit muscle will pound a 38t no problem but 9 stone needs a 34t. If you are of average size, weight & fitness, go 36 i guess.
15 stone of fit muscle will pound a 38t no problem but 9 stone needs a 34t. If you are of average size, weight & fitness, go 36 i guess.
The E-13 has no ramps but I ran a 22/35 for awhile, actually shifts alright, not lightning quick but it does work.
That's what I did when I switched to a 2x9. Also swapped cassettes to an 11-34. Climbing range still intact, and have a big enough gear to not miss having the front big ring...
Crank length is also a factor.
For the past year, I have been running a 36t single with 170mm cranks. I just switched to a 36/22 with 175mm cranks. The 175 made a huge difference. Much easier to turn circles now. The cranks get easy to push down, but you don't really loose the top end assuming you have the leg speed.
My vote is 36t. It feels good with a 11x34 cassette and is natural on rolling terrain.
For the past year, I have been running a 36t single with 170mm cranks. I just switched to a 36/22 with 175mm cranks. The 175 made a huge difference. Much easier to turn circles now. The cranks get easy to push down, but you don't really loose the top end assuming you have the leg speed.
My vote is 36t. It feels good with a 11x34 cassette and is natural on rolling terrain.
Shimano makes a 38T XT ring for 4 bolt cranks (XT goes on 26/38/48 combos for trekking bikes).
I believe the ultimate AM set up will settle out at a 24/38 chainring combo with the 11-36 or 12-36 cassette combo soon to be available or already are on 9 and 10 speed cassettes. Most of the high and low you need for most trails in a simple format. The kicker is is going to be can you mate up a dual ring chain guide system like the MRP Long Range Patrol with the new 10 speed crank combos coming out....I think there will be problems. The 9 speed cranks should be fine with a guide on the large ring position and using the 24/38 in the small/middle positions.
I believe the ultimate AM set up will settle out at a 24/38 chainring combo with the 11-36 or 12-36 cassette combo soon to be available or already are on 9 and 10 speed cassettes. Most of the high and low you need for most trails in a simple format. The kicker is is going to be can you mate up a dual ring chain guide system like the MRP Long Range Patrol with the new 10 speed crank combos coming out....I think there will be problems. The 9 speed cranks should be fine with a guide on the large ring position and using the 24/38 in the small/middle positions.