[dexterq20]

I bought an Enduro SL Expert about two months ago and I've been trying to get the suspension dialed for a while now, but to no avail. I've been riding it a lot lately on trails with long, relatively rocky climbs that lead to steep, rough descents.

*Let me preface this thread by saying that buying new suspension components is NOT an option, so please don't tell me to replace my fork/shock or tell me that I'm an idiot for buying a bike with Specialized suspension components.*

The problems I'm having:

When I set the air pressure in the fork so that the small bump sensitivity is to my liking (with the compression adjuster backed all the way out), the fork bottoms really easily. When I put enough air in the fork to keep it from bottoming, the small bump sensitivity goes to shlt and my hands hurt like crazy after any downhills. And FWIW, the compression adjuster only adjusts low-speed compression, so it has no effect on the bottoming of the fork.

My upper fork crown creaks. A lot. I've disassembled it, greased all the bolts, lightly greased the inside of the stanchion clamps, and torqued all the bolts to spec (50 in-lb). This fixes the problem, but only for a little bit. After a few hours of riding, the creaking comes right back. (I've greased the handlebar/stem interface too, but that's not the source of the creaking.) Any ideas?

The rear shock seems to be a piece of poop. Specialized recommends 180 psi for my body weight, which makes the shock WAY too firm (regardless of the compression setting), preventing me from getting full travel. When I put 175 psi in the shock, however, it's too soft and bobs a fair amount when climbing (even in the firm compression setting). I've tried to get surgical with the pressure settings (making adjustments in ~2 psi increments between 175 and 180), but it seems that when I'm at 178 psi, the shock is too firm throughout the entire compression adjustment range, but at 177 psi the shock is softer than I would like. What gives?

And finally, the rear shock squeaks, but only when it's in the firm compression setting (regardless of air pressure). I've tried lubing the seal with Tri Flow, and when that didn't work, I spread some Slick Honey on there, but it didn't help. Does this mean there's some valving inside my shock making noise when it compresses?

I would love to throw a 36 Talas and RP23 on the bike and call it a day, but unfortunately I don't have the money for that, so does anybody have ideas, tips, or suggestions to help remedy these issues? Thanks.

 

[Runner]

I can't help you, the suspension on my dad's SL doesn't feel that great either, but it is nice to finally find out where that annoying creak comes from. You have the updated suspension, right?

 

[jonKranked]

If I were you, I would take it to the shop where I got it. All of that sounds a little fishy. Your rear shock shouldn't be so finicky in such a small pressure range. Might need to be factory serviced. What kind of pressure range is giving you those results with your fork?

 

[dexterq20]

You have the updated suspension, right?

Yeah, it's all 2008 stuff.

If I were you, I would take it to the shop where I got it. All of that sounds a little fishy. Your rear shock shouldn't be so finicky in such a small pressure range. Might need to be factory serviced. What kind of pressure range is giving you those results with your fork?

I can't exactly take it back to the shop where I got it, because I was an employee there and EP'd the bike, but I have since moved away and no longer live anywhere near that shop. I'd also like to find a fix for the problem myself if possible; that way I don't have to deal with warranty stuff, which is always a pain.

As far as the pressure for the fork, I've been playing with settings between about 100 and 110 psi.

 

[DirtyMike]

Ok, I have real answers for you.

First off, the rear shock. Yes the noise you hear when in the stiff compression setting is just the valving making some noise, they all do that. As far as the air pressure settings, the best thing you can do, is take your shock pump with you in your bag, put the 180 in it before you leave, drop it down to 175 before you decend.

Ok creeking in the front. Get a new headset. Only fix I have found so far on these.
Preferably something sealed.

Ok front fork, Small bump sensitivity, its not there. Not a hi volume of air in this suspension, so its a bit harsh. All I can suggest for your air setting on the front fork, is to go with what feels good, remembering that if your not using all your travel, you have too much air. Thats all I have for this setup.


After a while, might not be a bad Idea for a rebuild on the fork, use a good synthetic fluid, swap out about 20cc's of the oil for triflow, grease it up with some slick honey when you go to put it back together. Should help to smooth it out a bit.







Hope this helps out

 

[dexterq20]

First off, the rear shock. Yes the noise you hear when in the stiff compression setting is just the valving making some noise, they all do that.

I'm disappointed to hear that. That's pretty weak IMO.

As far as the air pressure settings, the best thing you can do, is take your shock pump with you in your bag, put the 180 in it before you leave, drop it down to 175 before you decend.

I appreciate this advice, but I'm not gonna do that. That's verging on ridiculous. There's no reason I should have to constantly tune my suspension mid-ride.

Ok creeking in the front. Get a new headset. Only fix I have found so far on these.
Preferably something sealed.

It's the upper crown, not the headset. 100% sure about it. And I already have a high-end aftermarket headset.

Ok front fork, Small bump sensitivity, its not there. Not a hi volume of air in this suspension, so its a bit harsh. All I can suggest for your air setting on the front fork, is to go with what feels good, remembering that if your not using all your travel, you have too much air. Thats all I have for this setup.

Ok, I guess I'll figure it out.

Thanks. Kinda disappointing info though.

 

[DirtyMike]

Dont think the rear shock noise is that weak...... alot of shocks are noisy when your nearing the max settings. Its a good bike, but its def an AM bike. Best description I have been given from the riders who have been taking out or Demo versions, " It rides like it has no suspension, but when you need it, it comes alive"

Thats been xc Air suspension feel for a long time.

 

[gonefirefightin]

I gave the fork and shock a valiant flogging for several hundred miles of trail use.

I found a great remedy.

36 talas RC2 with a DHX air.

works great!

no noises

plenty of adjustments

 

[kidwoo]

Take it to olympic

Fork
Drop your spike valve pressure, open the air cart and add some oil. You lower that lame ass platform threshold and then give the oversized air cartridge the progressive ramp up it should have had to begin with. I've done this with mine and it rules.


Rear shock
Could you describe the sound as a 'chirp?'. If so that's normal. The 2008 version I rode felt much better than the 07 I got. I put an rp3 on mine and it completely changes the behavior of the bike. It felt like a 4" travel frame before the rp3.


If you decide anything you have genuinely is faulty, olympic will warranty it for you, regardless of where you bought it. It's part of being the specialized borg.

 

[jonKranked]

I can't exactly take it back to the shop where I got it, because I was an employee there and EP'd the bike, but I have since moved away and no longer live anywhere near that shop. I'd also like to find a fix for the problem myself if possible; that way I don't have to deal with warranty stuff, which is always a pain.

As long as you are the original owner (which it seems you are), any authorized Specialized dealer should be able to help you.

 

[Dangerous E]

Dexterq20--I'm having almost all of those problems as well. not so much w/ the weird noises from the shock, but all those front end/fork issues for sure. Do what Kidwoo said w/ the spike valve, that definitely helps. At least for a few minutes.

But I'm w/ you when you say that a lot of aspects of this bike are pure punk-ass. I'm so sick of replacing the damn air cartridges (six times so far) and having a bike that rides well only about 25% of the time. for what I/we paid for this bike, it's aint right. my old 2002 Enduro pro got the crap knocked out of it for 5 straight seasons and still rode really well when i sold it. my SL has a few hundred miles on it and feels wrung out already.

add to the list of problems some shock mount hardware that is constantly coming loose (in spite of loctiting), a main pivot bolt that just falls out sometimes (again, in spite of loctiting and replacement by my LBS), and some mystery knocking coming from the front end.

Ok, sorry for the thread poach. If you want, give me a call sometime and we can have therapy bitch sessions about spending a ton of $ on a bike that doesn't work.

 

[dexterq20]

I found a great remedy.

36 talas RC2 with a DHX air.

works great!

no noises

plenty of adjustments

Take it to olympic

Fork
Drop your spike valve pressure, open the air cart and add some oil.

So let all the air out of the fork first, or just let some air out? And how much oil should I put in? And what weight? Do I just open up the left fork leg and pour the oil in? This sounds deceptively simple...

Rear shock
Could you describe the sound as a 'chirp?'. If so that's normal.

Yeah, it's a chirp. Damn this "normal" nonsense.

I put an rp3 on mine and it completely changes the behavior of the bike. It felt like a 4" travel frame before the rp3.

I like the bike, but it definitely feels like a firmly suspended XC bike most of the time. It really takes some big impacts to use up all of the rear suspension. The bike sure climbs well, but I think I would like a 6" travel bike to feel a bit more plush. I wish I had money for a new shock.

If you decide anything you have genuinely is faulty, olympic will warranty it for you, regardless of where you bought it. It's part of being the specialized borg.

Oh I know the drill. I generally try to avoid Olympic though, because they offered me a job this summer and I turned it down to work for the competition (which might have been a mistake). Might be kinda awkward asking them for help, etc.

If you want, give me a call sometime and we can have therapy bitch sessions about spending a ton of $ on a bike that doesn't work.

Call me, I'm free all day. 867-5309.

 

[kidwoo]

So let all the air out of the fork first, or just let some air out? And how much oil should I put in? And what weight? Do I just open up the left fork leg and pour the oil in? This sounds deceptively simple....

No it's the SPIKE VALVE pressure. It's similar to the spv platform threshold settings on a manitou spv valve. More pressure = more platform. It's under the nut on the bottom of the fork. It doesn't look like there should be a schrader valve under there but there is. The minimum pressure is listed at 70. Drop it to 50 and have a go. Turn your bike upside down when you do this or you'll get oil squirting all over the place. Like manitou though, no air at all messes up the damping. I noticed a change below 50.

And you can't just dump oil into the stanchions. Well I guess you could, but that's not what I meant. You need to put oil in the CARTRIDGE. You need to be comfortable ripping things apart on your bike though. I'm going to put more oil in my fork pretty soon here so I'll take some specific notes.

What this does is reduce the volume of the air chamber, giving it more ramp/progressiveness at the end of the stroke. You'll reach kind of 'max pressure' for your weight/impact force sooner. With the reduced spike valve crap, you'll be even more likely to bottom it at the same pressure. Dropping the spike valve pressure improves the suppleness, decreasing the air chamber volume with oil gives it the proper ramp up that good air springs should have.

I like the bike, but it definitely feels like a firmly suspended XC bike most of the time. It really takes some big impacts to use up all of the rear suspension. The bike sure climbs well, but I think I would like a 6" travel bike to feel a bit more plush. I wish I had money for a new shock.

Exactly. I didn't feel like disecting the rear shock and I had an rp3......so that's my solution. FWIW a buddy of mine (manages olympic) rode the piss out of his last year and his shock did soften up. Personally I'm not that patient. Like I said though the 08 I rode was certainly improved in working like a suspension piece and not a drive train resistance device. I'd hunt down an rp3 if I were you. You can actually find used ones pretty cheap since the rp23 is the new hotness. You'd be amazed at how much the stock shock hinders the badassitude of that frame. For some reason specialized came up with an awesome frame design and then made a shock that doesn't allow it to work to its full potential.

Oh I know the drill. I generally try to avoid Olympic though, because they offered me a job this summer and I turned it down to work for the competition (which might have been a mistake). Might be kinda awkward asking them for help, etc.

Meh. Those guys are chill. Tell them kidwoo sent you

 

[dexterq20]

It doesn't look like there should be a schrader valve under there but there is.

Which fork leg? Right or left? It can't be under the schrader valve on the left fork leg... can it?

You need to put oil in the CARTRIDGE.

How much/what weight?

Sorry for all the questions.

 

[kidwoo]

Which fork leg? Right or left? It can't be under the schrader valve on the left fork leg... can it?


How much/what weight?

Sorry for all the questions.

Right leg..... Damper side. It's the tall nut that doesn't look like it should have a schrader valve under it.


Oil weight doesn't matter really, it's just to serve as a space occupier. I guess since it will be lubing the air piston from the bottom you should probably not use something like 20wt though As far as volume goes, I didn't measure. I just kept adding until it felt better.

 

[Jeremy R]

Tell them kidwoo sent you

The last time I said that, the stripper started asking me about child support.

 

[kidwoo]

The last time I said that, the stripper started asking me about child support.

How did her voice sound with no teeth?

 

[Jeremy R]

How did her voice sound with no teeth?

Wearz ma thild shupporth?

 

[kidwoo]

She learned english?

 

[dexterq20]

So, to un-hijack this thread... just found this over on empty beer:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=422422

 

[kidwoo]

What did I tell you?


I did that shizz before it was cool

 

[Steam007]

Dexterq20--add to the list of problems some shock mount hardware that is constantly coming loose (in spite of loctiting), a main pivot bolt that just falls out sometimes (again, in spite of loctiting and replacement by my LBS), and some mystery knocking coming from the front end.

i have an '07 which quickly needed '08 cartridges. before the replacement there was the "mystery knock" on each fork compression of any significance. after the new cartridge the knock occurs on the first compression after switching the fork to 4" travel. spesh swears this is ok. i needed an exploded diagram (which i didn't have) to keep up with the description i got, but i chose to trust them. the dude seemed legit - my b.s. detector didn't go off.

gonefirefightin wrenches in our lbs/spesh dealer - said today spesh approves the oil addition mods.

 

[Dangerous E]

i have an '07 which quickly needed '08 cartridges. before the replacement there was the "mystery knock" on each fork compression of any significance. after the new cartridge the knock occurs on the first compression after switching the fork to 4" travel. spesh swears this is ok. i needed an exploded diagram (which i didn't have) to keep up with the description i got, but i chose to trust them. the dude seemed legit - my b.s. detector didn't go off.

gonefirefightin wrenches in our lbs/spesh dealer - said today spesh approves the oil addition mods.

Hmm, intersting. Thanks for the info. The knock I had was a little different though, almost feels like a loose headset, but it's not.

As I write this, my SL is at a shop (not the shop where I bought it mind you, that's a whole 'nother story) getting the full overhaul on the suspension. Spec. came through big time and referred me to a place closer to my home that could make things right. So for anyone else having issues, you can take your steed to ANY Spec. dealer to get it worked on. Spec. reimburses them for time, labor and materials. So yeah, new internals for the fork (both sides) as well as a new shock. Kickass.

I'll definitely be trying the oil addition mods...

 

[lriihimaki]

I have had my 08 SL for about 8 months now. It is supposed to feel firm. I hear and feel the same things you do. Specialized says that this is what they were shooting for as to eliminate climbing problems. It feels as if there is little small bump sensitivity and I've already blown one front cartridge and the back seems to be "softening" even though the air pressure is the same. I'm 210 lbs. and it's by far better than my last bike but it is no dh bike either. It's not perfect but it does a good job at bridging the gap between bikes. IT's a good bike to have for multiple use. just my 2 cents.

 

[Jeepnut22]

Interesting stuff on the Oil Mods... I have an '07 with the '08 shock replacements. I haven't had most problems mentioned above, but good to know. I'm around 220 lbs. and have my front shock set at 110 psi and the rear at 200 psi. I haven't hit anything big enough to bottom out the shocks yet as I ride mostly XC with it. I do use up most of the available travel which makes me think my psi may be too low. Adding the oil in the air chambers doesn't impact the top 2/3rds of the suspenion charateristics so this seems like a good mod for where I am set up.

I do get that knocking sound that makes me think the headset is lose. Good to know it's not just my bike and that Spesh says it's "normal".

Great info all!! Much appreciated!!

 

[ohio]

This thread makes me glad I picked up the previous gen Enduro (until the chainstay cracks).

 

[Acadian]

This thread makes me glad I picked up the previous gen Enduro (until the chainstay cracks).

just so you know...the current aren't immune to cracks

 

[Dangerous E]

Regarding this mystery knock coming from the fork that a few of you mentioned: now that i have '08 internals in both sides of my fork, the knocking/loose headset feeling has disappeared (i'm on an '07 Pro). seems to feel a lot more snappy but I have still have yet to find the sweet spot with air pressure. feels like there's about a tiny window where if I'm on the low side of it, I bottom out a lot, if I'm on the high side of it, I only use about 4" of the travel.

this fork has me so confused...

 

[kidwoo]

This thread makes me glad I picked up the previous gen Enduro (until the chainstay cracks).

Mine's better.

 

[jp9053]

I have owned a 2007 Enduro SL since March of 2007. I have never blown up a single suspension component. This is not due to not riding or not riding rough terrain. I think a lot of riders expect this bike to be plush. It was never intended to be plush, it was intended to be efficient. It has speed sensitive suspension and a slack head angle. These two characteristics add up to a very firm ride unless you are traveling downhill at reasonable speed. The only tuning problem I ran into was bottoing out my fork. I couldn't find a pressure setting that worked until I reduced the air pressure in the damping cartridge from 75 psi to 50 psi. The pressure setting that I had run before, that prevented bottoming but felt too firm for adequate bump absorption and wouldn't settle properly coming into corners, became just right. Because I work at Olympic Bike Shop, I have seen a few problematic suspension components from enduros. I do think it is possible to get working suspension that can be tuned to perform as it was intended. These bikes will never be plush! I am happy to help anyone set up or warranty there suspension at Olympic if that is what it will take.

 

[ohio]

Mine's better.

Which is good because you'll actually ride yours. I'll just hang mine in the garage and tell people I ride.

 

[kidwoo]

I have owned a 2007 Enduro SL since March of 2007. I have never blown up a single suspension component. This is not due to not riding or not riding rough terrain. I think a lot of riders expect this bike to be plush. It was never intended to be plush, it was intended to be efficient. It has speed sensitive suspension and a slack head angle. These two characteristics add up to a very firm ride unless you are traveling downhill at reasonable speed. The only tuning problem I ran into was bottoing out my fork. I couldn't find a pressure setting that worked until I reduced the air pressure in the damping cartridge from 75 psi to 50 psi. The pressure setting that I had run before, that prevented bottoming but felt too firm for adequate bump absorption and wouldn't settle properly coming into corners, became just right. Because I work at Olympic Bike Shop, I have seen a few problematic suspension components from enduros. I do think it is possible to get working suspension that can be tuned to perform as it was intended. These bikes will never be plush! I am happy to help anyone set up or warranty there suspension at Olympic if that is what it will take.

Mine's plush as hell beyotch

 

[Dangerous E]

I have owned a 2007 Enduro SL since March of 2007. I have never blown up a single suspension component. This is not due to not riding or not riding rough terrain. I think a lot of riders expect this bike to be plush. It was never intended to be plush, it was intended to be efficient. It has speed sensitive suspension and a slack head angle. These two characteristics add up to a very firm ride unless you are traveling downhill at reasonable speed. The only tuning problem I ran into was bottoing out my fork. I couldn't find a pressure setting that worked until I reduced the air pressure in the damping cartridge from 75 psi to 50 psi. The pressure setting that I had run before, that prevented bottoming but felt too firm for adequate bump absorption and wouldn't settle properly coming into corners, became just right. Because I work at Olympic Bike Shop, I have seen a few problematic suspension components from enduros. I do think it is possible to get working suspension that can be tuned to perform as it was intended. These bikes will never be plush! I am happy to help anyone set up or warranty there suspension at Olympic if that is what it will take.

I think this we are talking about two divergent issues people have w/ this bike: one is not liking the hard as rock suspension platform, and and two is sh*t blowing up on it. One of these two issues actually had a lot to do w/ me buying my SL and really liking it. The other makes me want to punch this bike in the undercarriage. I'll let you figure out which is which.

Mine's plush as hell beyotch

 

[dexterq20]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but...

I just serviced my rear shock on my bike today and wanted to share my experience.

I let all the air out, screwed off the air sleeve, and loaded the internals up with Slick Honey grease. And I mean A LOT of Slick Honey. I tried to wedge some things (drinking straw, small zip tie, shifter cable, feeler gauge) between the seals and the air can when sliding the air can back on to bleed the shock in order to prevent negative air pressure that could potentially cause the shock to stick down. Unfortunately, the seals fit so tightly, whatever I wedged in there (which DID effectively release any negative air pressure) just ended up staying in there. Everything I tried was wedged much too tightly to be slid out after the air sleeve was on. I'm actually pretty lucky that I didn't do any damage to the seals, because I was struggling with this procedure for at least 2 hours.

I ultimately gave up and threaded the air sleeve back on without making an attempt to bleed it, figuring that my shock would be too short from the negative air pressure, but I would at least be able to go for a ride. Surprisingly, my shock was not too short at all. My eye-to-eye measurements weren't necessarily the most precise, but as far as I can tell, my shock is maybe 1mm shorter than it's supposed to be, but it runs a million times more smoothly than before. This 1mm difference in length allows the shock to be really, really smooth off the top of the stroke. No initial stiction, and also really smooth throughout the entire stroke. Needed to up the air pressure in the shock about 5 psi to compensate for the new-found lack of friction.

Just got back from a 3 hour ride on the newly serviced shock, and it's like I'm riding a brand new bike. It actually feels like I have a full 6 inches of travel in the back now, and it's much more supple than before.

 

[tuumbaq]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but...

I just serviced my rear shock on my bike today and wanted to share my experience.

I let all the air out, screwed off the air sleeve, and loaded the internals up with Slick Honey grease. And I mean A LOT of Slick Honey. I tried to wedge some things (drinking straw, small zip tie, shifter cable, feeler gauge) between the seals and the air can when sliding the air can back on to bleed the shock in order to prevent negative air pressure that could potentially cause the shock to stick down. Unfortunately, the seals fit so tightly, whatever I wedged in there (which DID effectively release any negative air pressure) just ended up staying in there. Everything I tried was wedged much too tightly to be slid out after the air sleeve was on. I'm actually pretty lucky that I didn't do any damage to the seals, because I was struggling with this procedure for at least 2 hours.

WTF ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????


Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How's your 40 BTW?

 

[cutamerc]

I just did the same today, didn't even bother trying to limit how much was in there. The difference is ASTOUNDING. nuff said. I was on the verge of putting down dough on a dhx or van r. not anymore. prob lost 2mm of overall length, not much at all.