F* bad torque specs
- Thread starter stoney
- Start date
I'm assuming this is on the lesbaru, not a bike? 50ft/lb is a decent amount.
On a related note, the other day my old man gave me a torque ratcheting screwdriver (hex end for different bits). Bad-ass. Made in USA too.
EDIT - holy crap is it a pricey one!
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=torque+screwdriver&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=9709292119781926484&sa=X&ei=YEybTq3eHerj0QGFrNnZBA&ved=0CJkBEPMCMAQ
On a related note, the other day my old man gave me a torque ratcheting screwdriver (hex end for different bits). Bad-ass. Made in USA too.
EDIT - holy crap is it a pricey one!
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=torque+screwdriver&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=9709292119781926484&sa=X&ei=YEybTq3eHerj0QGFrNnZBA&ved=0CJkBEPMCMAQ
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Was it greased and or used a washer? washers are required to get accurate torque readings
honestly dude.......double check that. 90ft/lb is car wheel lug area. You sure it isn't in/lb?
If/when this thread mysteriously disappears we'll know why.
I'm also feeling this is way wrong, I'm guessing lb/in not lb/ft. Double check.
I have a hard time believing any component inside a fork gets torqued to 50ft/lbs.
as others have said, 90 ft/lbs (1080in/lbs) is a seriously high number for any bike part.
What Stoney tightens his valve caps with:
Yep. I'm an idiot. I really need to read better... Guess I need to get a new in/lb torque wrench to go with my ft/lb. I also need to replace the part, yeah! off to Sears now.
Hopefully it isn't too expensive, especially given that I buying a leg internal leg assembly and all the bits I need to rebuild the compression leg. Oh well, at least I'll have a practically new fork when I'm done. Might as well do my shock too, since the bike is completely disabled.
I am willing to stand by the shame of being wrong, unlike others around.If/when this thread mysteriously disappears we'll know why.
Certainly could have been a typo. Torquing a bolt has three stages. Pulling the parts together, preloading and breaking. Preload amount depends on the rigidity of the items being bolted and the length of the bolt.
What college did you go to?
The college of deserving rep.
must spread rep around before repping the joker again.
Also, keep in mind that torque wrenches are never 100% true - even more if they have been abused.
LOL @ this
I'm with CrabJoe here. About the only thing on a bike in ft/lbs are crank arm bolts and they're in the range of 35 to 40 ft/lbs. I prefer to use the N/m values. No confusion.
Cassette lockrings and crankbolts should be tightened as hard as you possibly can. Use extra leverage and ask your musclehead friends to help you if needed. If either of these parts fail, you will have to strip your bike down and paint it matte black or have to purchase a new bike....
^^
I think you need to add rear axels to your list. Tighten until you hear something cool and/or see a dust poof. And grease is for puzzies...No really, it is.
I think you need to add rear axels to your list. Tighten until you hear something cool and/or see a dust poof. And grease is for puzzies...No really, it is.
Hey Stoney, I can get your torque wrenches calibrated for free through work if you want. Aviojet is right though, if you drop them its best to assume they are no longer correct.
i dont know about "as hard as you possibly can"....especially with any crank thats not a Shimano. youll just wind up destroying your BB faster with it being over tightened.
edit: or damaged your hub's cassette threads
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Bummer, Joker.
I go 3-4 clicks on a cassette lockring. Never had one on my personal bike (or known of a customers) come loose. Crank bolts, sure, crank the hell out of them. But remember, any bolt has it's breaking point. Standing over the bike with it in the stand, using a Park 8mil, grab the other crank, and pull hard. That always does the trick.
I think that was sarcasm dude.
On the plus side, you will probably only make that mistake once.
You're folly....
The sad thing is that in 10 years wrenching, this is the first time I tried to follow torque specs on a bike. I'm going to go back to tichtening by feel.
Not needed to go that way, what you really need to do is go off specs and feel.... As in if you end up reading a 50lb spec, remember what it felt like coming off....... if it comes of easily, you know you read something wrong.
There is nothing on a bike you cannot torque to spec with an Inch pound torque wrench
I recently bought a Pedro's torque wrench for my bike. I was surprised at what proper torque felt like after all these years of building and wrenching without one.
Question for all you "torque" guys out there. I use a Park "beam" style torque wrench. When tightening items there is the initial torque to get it moving (overcome initial resistance) and then once it is moving the torque spec goes down. And I'm using a ton of grease FWIW.
So should I be looking at that initial static spec, or the "dynamic" one?
So should I be looking at that initial static spec, or the "dynamic" one?
I have built up a dozen bikes, rebuilt forks, and do ALL of my own wrenching. I don't even own a torque wrench. I usually don't even read the torque specs. When I do read something like "25 in/lbs", I try to imagine 25 pounds of weight applied 1 inch up on the wrench. Or whatever.
Never had a part come loose on the trail. Never sheared off a bolt. So therefore, torque specs = BS.
If it didn't snap yet, must be tight enough.