who raced the fontana XC race, was going to, but got sick.
I would like to see pics, any one race it or take pictures.
Thanks
I would like to see pics, any one race it or take pictures.
Thanks
Fontana XC race, any pics?
- Thread starter mastercycleman
- Start date
I took photos, but can't upload them until Monday thanks to the lousy T-Mobile Hotspot at the Fontana Starbucks...kept dropping the connection for a milisecond every 30 seconds or so. Enough to disrupt the upload. I was only able to upload one to www.phototurbo.com
I'm posting this message from my phone.
I'm posting this message from my phone.
thanks, hope to see them tommorow.
The XC photos are almost up now, 100MB to go.
My upload connection just isn't cutting it, I HAVE to find a T1 I can use...I still have over 7GB of DH to upload. It will take days at this rate.
My upload connection just isn't cutting it, I HAVE to find a T1 I can use...I still have over 7GB of DH to upload. It will take days at this rate.
Okay all the XC photos are up, just ignore the watermarks, which aren't too obnoxious.
Hey,
Thanks for taking photos out there. There are some good shots. I was the guy in the jean shorts and white undershirt on the Giant Anthem:biggrin:
Anyway- I was looking at your exif data and it shows you were shooting at ISO 100 and with aperture priority. I'm wondering why you made that choice. I'm a newbie and still learning but have been guided to shoot all sports stuff @ ISO 400 with Shutter Priority. I use a 20d with cheap kit lenses for now.
Thanks for taking photos out there. There are some good shots. I was the guy in the jean shorts and white undershirt on the Giant Anthem:biggrin:
Anyway- I was looking at your exif data and it shows you were shooting at ISO 100 and with aperture priority. I'm wondering why you made that choice. I'm a newbie and still learning but have been guided to shoot all sports stuff @ ISO 400 with Shutter Priority. I use a 20d with cheap kit lenses for now.
1000-oaks, really nice shots! The fuse product one is cool.
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With ISO, a lower one is less sensitive (slower) with less noise (smoother). A higher ISO has is more sensitive (faster), but with more noise. I shoot as low ISO as I can, without my exposure being too slow.
Sports photographer use all the creative modes: (aperture p., shutter p., and manual). It depends on personal preference and what you are doing. With Shutter priority, you choose a shutter speed and it selects an aperture size according to the set exposure (-2, -1, 0, 1, 2). Aperture priority does the same thing, but instead, you choose an aperture.
Hope that helps. Joining a camera forum would help you a lot.
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With ISO, a lower one is less sensitive (slower) with less noise (smoother). A higher ISO has is more sensitive (faster), but with more noise. I shoot as low ISO as I can, without my exposure being too slow.
Sports photographer use all the creative modes: (aperture p., shutter p., and manual). It depends on personal preference and what you are doing. With Shutter priority, you choose a shutter speed and it selects an aperture size according to the set exposure (-2, -1, 0, 1, 2). Aperture priority does the same thing, but instead, you choose an aperture.
Hope that helps. Joining a camera forum would help you a lot.
Thanks for the compliments guys, it was my first race shooting! I wanted to ride, but I pretty much suck and I need more time on the camera anyway.
Actually I used Tv, Av, and M throughout the day - probably using M the most. I started with Tv or Av to see how the exposures were coming out, then made a mental note and shifted to M. I like manual because of the wide variety of rider clothing; a guy in a dark shirt will auto dark grey and overexpose the terrain. A guy in a white shirt will auto light grey and underexpose the terrain. Going manual keeps things constant, but then you have pay constant attention to the sun and (once you find a speed you like) continuously adjust the f/stop accordingly. I accidentally overexposed about 35 frames during the race, but they weren't bad enough to be a problem.
I used ISO 200 early in the day, then bumped down to 100 when the sun was bright enough. (always shoot the lowest ISO you can get away with for best image quality) The late Saturday practice shots go as high as ISO 1600 - it was almost dark. Your 20D has really low noise up to 400 and is still pretty good at 800, above that it starts getting grainy. (I have a 20D backup body.)
Depending on how fast your lenses are and how much depth of field you need (margin for focusing error), you'll probably be around ISO 400 most of the time, 200 in daylight and 100 only if it's really bright out - or you're on a tripod shooting stills.
Actually I used Tv, Av, and M throughout the day - probably using M the most. I started with Tv or Av to see how the exposures were coming out, then made a mental note and shifted to M. I like manual because of the wide variety of rider clothing; a guy in a dark shirt will auto dark grey and overexpose the terrain. A guy in a white shirt will auto light grey and underexpose the terrain. Going manual keeps things constant, but then you have pay constant attention to the sun and (once you find a speed you like) continuously adjust the f/stop accordingly. I accidentally overexposed about 35 frames during the race, but they weren't bad enough to be a problem.
I used ISO 200 early in the day, then bumped down to 100 when the sun was bright enough. (always shoot the lowest ISO you can get away with for best image quality) The late Saturday practice shots go as high as ISO 1600 - it was almost dark. Your 20D has really low noise up to 400 and is still pretty good at 800, above that it starts getting grainy. (I have a 20D backup body.)
Depending on how fast your lenses are and how much depth of field you need (margin for focusing error), you'll probably be around ISO 400 most of the time, 200 in daylight and 100 only if it's really bright out - or you're on a tripod shooting stills.
Save your pennies for a Canon 70-200mm L, it's a workhorse that will treat you right! Don't waste your money on image stabilization unless you're shooting stationary objects without a tripod.
Thanks for the info- I'm saving for that 70-200 L, I also want the 10-22 for dj stuff. On Smugmug I'm scorpionphoto.smugmug It's just a hobby- but I'm having fun. Any critique you have I'd like.
Oh I don't think I have any business offering critiques, I'm a newbie myself! You stuff looks darn good to me, maybe add a fill flash to the kit. (550EX)