Ya this is basically the same thing I described on pg one. The spungy lever is definetly from air getting in at the lever. The push pull does the trick.
Formula MeGa - The sh*t, or just sh*t?
- Thread starter Supernaut
- Start date
I have done this, but without actuating the lever. Heading out to the garage to try it your way right now. Posting my results later.
Fred
Supernaut, thanks for this tip. I just re-bled mine and forced a little extra fluid in the lever and it firmed them up noticably. I then put on my new Kool Stop pads and it feels like a new brake system! These pads are bedding in much easier too so I already have more power and no squealing. Its early yet but they are definitely feeling like keepers now.
I think i might have got the bleed right, but tho power aint there. I am suspecting that these brakes needs an immense amount of bedding in. By now they are sort of powerfull and modulates great, but i am not satisfied untill i can lock up the front with one finger while my butt is hanging over the rear.
Ill just leave them for now and wait for the snow to melt. Should be sometime in june
Anywho; thanks for all your help. I got way more helpfull responses then i thought i would get. Looks like the monkey came through again.
Cheers, Fred
Ill just leave them for now and wait for the snow to melt. Should be sometime in june
Anywho; thanks for all your help. I got way more helpfull responses then i thought i would get. Looks like the monkey came through again.
Cheers, Fred
I've been using Formula Oros for 2 seasons, and I know they are super-sensitive to a good bleeding. The Formula bleed kit comes with excellent instructions on how to bleed them. Bleed them with whatever you imagine to work, that may not do it. Bleed them by following the instructions carefully and you'll be happy.
Formula's semi-metallic pads take a long time to get up to power. You might be able to speed it up by slopping some mud on the rotor and using the mud's abrasiveness to get things cooking quickly. But if you're feeling a soft, weak brake and you have the semi-metallic pads, and they're relatively new, don't assume you need to bleed. They may just need to bed in.
Formula brake feel isn't for everyone, especially those who come from the wooden, on/off binary feel of a Hayes DH or an older Hope. Formulas have a soft, fluid feel that's different from the firm lever of a Hope or Hayes. After using Hayes DH, Hope Mini and Hope Mono M4, I prefer the Formulas.
I've heard repeatedly that Formula designed Avid's Juicy and Elixir brakes, and by the looks of things to my eye, it's true -- so anyone who says the Avid is "better" strikes me as just being a crazy Avid fanboy.
Formula's semi-metallic pads take a long time to get up to power. You might be able to speed it up by slopping some mud on the rotor and using the mud's abrasiveness to get things cooking quickly. But if you're feeling a soft, weak brake and you have the semi-metallic pads, and they're relatively new, don't assume you need to bleed. They may just need to bed in.
Formula brake feel isn't for everyone, especially those who come from the wooden, on/off binary feel of a Hayes DH or an older Hope. Formulas have a soft, fluid feel that's different from the firm lever of a Hope or Hayes. After using Hayes DH, Hope Mini and Hope Mono M4, I prefer the Formulas.
I've heard repeatedly that Formula designed Avid's Juicy and Elixir brakes, and by the looks of things to my eye, it's true -- so anyone who says the Avid is "better" strikes me as just being a crazy Avid fanboy.
Last edited:
Long time lurker. First post.
I had the same trouble with my megas. I was so unhappy I ended up ordering new brakes.
While I was waiting on the new brakes I was still riding the megas and on one ride just like a switch was flicked they started working like magic.
They are now the best brake I have ever owned and I ended up selling the other brakes.(hopes)
The formulas just take a little extra patience to get set up right. Then they rock.
I just put goodridge lines on and had to go through the whole bleed process again. I have to say it is much easier after you get a few of the tricks down. Most important being to move the caliper around while tapping it to release all the air at the same time you are holding the lever closed and have suction on the caliper syringe(a lot like juggling). A lot of air came out. Just push the fluid back and forth untill you are tired of it them do it some more. The second being to remove the caliper syringe, replace the screw and pull the fluid from the M/C until no more bubbles come out. I usually walk away from this a few times letting the brake hang to allow any air to rise to the top. Finally you should push the fluid back into the M/C as mentioned before so air does not get sucked back it when you remove the syringe.
Good luck.
I had the same trouble with my megas. I was so unhappy I ended up ordering new brakes.
While I was waiting on the new brakes I was still riding the megas and on one ride just like a switch was flicked they started working like magic.
They are now the best brake I have ever owned and I ended up selling the other brakes.(hopes)
The formulas just take a little extra patience to get set up right. Then they rock.
I just put goodridge lines on and had to go through the whole bleed process again. I have to say it is much easier after you get a few of the tricks down. Most important being to move the caliper around while tapping it to release all the air at the same time you are holding the lever closed and have suction on the caliper syringe(a lot like juggling). A lot of air came out. Just push the fluid back and forth untill you are tired of it them do it some more. The second being to remove the caliper syringe, replace the screw and pull the fluid from the M/C until no more bubbles come out. I usually walk away from this a few times letting the brake hang to allow any air to rise to the top. Finally you should push the fluid back into the M/C as mentioned before so air does not get sucked back it when you remove the syringe.
Good luck.
Update, see post #1
I run megas and after a few bleeds they work great.I bled each front and back twice following the instructions, but what i did was bled them with less than perfect results but rode them a little first after the first bleed before i bled them again( too try an work out some of the air) they work awsome now and im a clydesdale right now at 250. I had elixirs before those and both my levers failed and began leaking like hell with all loss of power. also i used motul 5.1 fluid as well. I run old shimano 755 4 pistons on my hardtail and use an mineral oil other than shimano oil and those brake could stop a train as well, and i bought them used on ebay for like 50 bucks put new lines on and paired too a pair of new XTR hydro levers and they work awsome.(i did pump the pistons out then cracked the calipers apart and cleaned everything with alchohol before putting back together and pushing the pistons back in the bleeding with a foreign hydro mineral oil called pentosin CHF 7.1) anywho thats my braking situation right now, and im happy with what i run. P.S. the brake in time on the megas was a bit more than my other brakes just bleed em good and use them a bit ,give em a chance too break in good if all is done right i think you will be happy with their performance!
Last edited: