I know a few of you guys have built up SXT's short travel dh rigs. I was wondering what is the optimal travel on the 40 for the SXT? And how does it perform at the travel range? Does it bottom out easier?
FOX 40 at 6 or 7" Travel
- Thread starter liquidsystm
- Start date
any kind of advice would be great?
Its according to what you are using the bike for.
I am using mine as a full on DH race rig, and it works best set at 8 or 7.5 inches of travel.
With the 40 set at 7, it is the same height as the stock 36 fork.
I am half way to converting my SX into a full on DH bike . But getting the right Forks was bothering me I was trying to find some old 7 boxxers or a set of last years Boxxer ride forks. But reading this do you think an 8 Boxxer would work fine then.
Have a buddy who ran his 40 at 6.5" the first half of the year. Felt the same to me, but he says it bottomed a bit harshly. I have no doubt that we could have adjusted his compression a bit to compensate, but he's a weirdo and couldn't be bothered with tedious things like turning knobs.
It should feel great on your SX T, but as Jeremy R says, run it at 7.5 for balance and proper axle to crown.
It should feel great on your SX T, but as Jeremy R says, run it at 7.5 for balance and proper axle to crown.
You can reduce travel on new Boxxers incrementally to 7".
Cool I best get a set and have a play then. Do you just use a spacer then like on their other forks?
Huh? How?
I put some spacers above the negative spring, and lowered mine ('06 Team) down to 7". However, that also put a full inch of preload on the spring, and I could bottom it out in the parking lot. It was almost unrideable. Just to check I rode it like that for 3 days, and on the smallest rocks and the widest corners it would bottom out. I am under the impression that you need to cut the spring down in order to shorten the travel, and the guys at Fanatyk agreed with that.
Here's a description of the process and a link to the thread on this topic:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178322&highlight=boxxer+reduce
By CaveDweller "I put 0.7inchs of boxxer spring preload spacers under the top out rubbers on the solo air setup. I lowered the rear on my bike 0.8inchs as well at the same time. My objective was to lower the bike but retain the angles i had before, maybe slighty slacker.
You could also use extra bottom out bumpers or anything that will fit nice and snug to the shaft. You will need to pull the solo air piston out, you will need circlip pliers, and be gentle and try not to damage the oring seals. make sure you follow the rebuild instructions and add 3ml of oil to the air piston. Download the boxxer rebuild manual.
Here is where you add the spacers
I also did the mod of removing the black box stack. It seems to work ok as well.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/sho...ight=black+box
The forks feel fine, maybe even a little more progressive all up. Im really digging it at the moment. Having the bike lower has made it ride very nice indeed. I think i went up 10psi in pressure, i have not noticed it toppping out and im getting full travel with no harsh bottom out.
Pic of the bike (again.... )"
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178322&highlight=boxxer+reduce
By CaveDweller "I put 0.7inchs of boxxer spring preload spacers under the top out rubbers on the solo air setup. I lowered the rear on my bike 0.8inchs as well at the same time. My objective was to lower the bike but retain the angles i had before, maybe slighty slacker.
You could also use extra bottom out bumpers or anything that will fit nice and snug to the shaft. You will need to pull the solo air piston out, you will need circlip pliers, and be gentle and try not to damage the oring seals. make sure you follow the rebuild instructions and add 3ml of oil to the air piston. Download the boxxer rebuild manual.
Here is where you add the spacers
I also did the mod of removing the black box stack. It seems to work ok as well.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/sho...ight=black+box
The forks feel fine, maybe even a little more progressive all up. Im really digging it at the moment. Having the bike lower has made it ride very nice indeed. I think i went up 10psi in pressure, i have not noticed it toppping out and im getting full travel with no harsh bottom out.
Pic of the bike (again.... )"
Those directions are for a Solo Air-equipped Boxxer, such as a World Cup. The '06/'07 Team, with its coil spring, can not be shortened unless the spring is actually cut down.
The air cartridge is great because you can adjust the pressure to compensate for what would be preload, whereas the spring has to be shortened. Springs with too much preload do weird things, like bottom easily.
Anyone ever cut a spring down? Chop saw with an abrasive blade?
The air cartridge is great because you can adjust the pressure to compensate for what would be preload, whereas the spring has to be shortened. Springs with too much preload do weird things, like bottom easily.
Anyone ever cut a spring down? Chop saw with an abrasive blade?
No- he's using the air cartridge/solo air setup, but with Team lowers. He can let out those 7 psi to compensate for the reduced volume with the shortened travel. Re-read the post.
I'm kinda bummed I need to get a second spring and cut it down. In my eyes, adjustable travel is a great thing, and I was under the impression I could lower my Team when I got it. Cutting springs is pretty tricky, at least from what everyone says about it. That's why the 40 is such a nice fork IMO, the spring comes 2 inches shorter than it has to be, and with spacers already made up. So simple!
Im running mine at 7 on my v10.
And I wouldnt have it any other way...
And I wouldnt have it any other way...
I am running it at seven on my SXT and loving it http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186302
i have a glory and have rock my 40 seven inches. like it alot but i do hit bottom more often then im use to (i use to ride a 66)