[ak pura vida]

My quick search did not provide the info I was looking for. I have a new 2014 40 and was wondering where the taper in the stanchions start/stop. I would like to lower my stanchions some but want to make sure if i do i won't be clamping on an area with thinner material. I'm assuming it isn't an issue with the top crown since different bikes have different head tube lengths but what about the bottom crown? Can I adjust the bottom crown location without concern of too much tension on a thin part of the stanchion? Also, can someone tell me the correct torque spec for the crown bolts? Thanks.

Cory

 

[HAB]

Don't go lower than the minimum recommended height for the lower crown. You'll just bottom the seals on the crown, and/or hit the tire on the crown. Either way, bad.

 

[ak pura vida]

Sorry, guess I wasn't clear, I want to go the other way. I want to push the stanchions out further. So there is less stanchion above the top crown.

PV

 

[FirstAscent]

via Pinkbike...

Taper-butted stanchion tubes: Air-pistons sliding up and down inside the left stanchion tube required an ID as smooth as the tube’s OD. The Kashima-coated tubes are tapered internally to be thicker near the lower fork crown. The tubes are tapered thinner both above and below the lower crown, which encourages the stanchions to flex a little. This gives the new 40 a welcome degree of comfort over the original. Both the right and left stanchions are the same, and the internals of the original will retrofit into the new chassis.

 

[FirstAscent]

oops, double post

 

[ak pura vida]

Thanks. I did read that but was wondering if anyone knew where the tapering started/ended? Ideally fox would provide actual measurements from the top of the stanchions down. Anyone?

PV

 

[HAB]

That makes more sense. I'd still be wary of lengthening the fork much beyond what Fox recommends, irrespective of any tapering, because you'll be lengthening the fork, and thereby the lever arm through which inputs at the wheel are delivered to the frame/fork. How much longer are we talking?

 

[ak pura vida]

Just the 1/2 inch or so the stanchions are above the top crown. Although it would give me a "slightly" slacked head angle it is more for looks. Personal preference.

PV

 

[aaronjb]

Just the 1/2 inch or so the stanchions are above the top crown. Although it would give me a "slightly" slacked head angle it is more for looks. Personal preference.

PV

inb4, popcorn.gif, etc.

 

[4130biker]

How about some more spacers under your upper crown to avoid potentially over extending your fork?

 

[buckoW]

I run mine fully extended with 125mm between the crowns without issues.

 

[bizutch]

I run mine fully extended with 125mm between the crowns without issues.

Diggers can't post about tech stuff. Get back to posting pics of your craft pal!

 

[ak pura vida]

Thanks. I guess I should have just asked if anyone knew at what point the taper in the stanchions starts and stops.

PV

 

[Lelandjt]

I like my fork a little taller/slacker. Most frames now have a 1.5" headtube and most ridrs use a flush internal lower headset cup. Cane Creek makes an external 1.5"-1 1/8 lower cup that raises the front end while increasing the distance between the crowns. It also uses a larger bearing than a flush cup. This is the cleanest, strongest, stiffest way to raise the fork.

 

[ak pura vida]

cool, thanks for the info. if i really feel the need to slacken it out some, i'll probably try an angle set. not sure at this point though.

pv