[King*Cole]

I'm thinking of building up a Dirtbag and so far I've figured out these specs. Tell me what you think. I'm open to suggestions on swapping parts out. Also if anyone has a Dirtbag and could kinda tell me how it rides that would be awesome.


Frame: Transparent Electric Blue Dirtbag (DHX Air)
Fork: Marzocchi 66 ATA
Headset: Cane Creek - Double XC Flush
Stem: Syncros FR
Shifters: Sram X.9
Front Brake: Avid Code
Rear Brake: Avid Code
Handlebar: Syncros Bulk
Grips: Oury Lock On
Rear Derailleur: Sram X.9 Med Cage
Cassette: Sram PG-990 9 sp
Chain: Wipperman Connex 908 9 Speed Chain
Chainguide: Wicked Racin Dualrailleur
Bashguard: Gamut P20 (Blue)
Cranks: Race Face Atlas 170 mm
Pedals: Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: WTB Rocket V SLT
Front Hub: Hope Pro II
Rear Hub: Hope Pro II
Rims: Mavic EX 823
Front Tire: Maxxis DHF Minion 2.5 UST
Rear Tire: Maxxis DHR Minion 2.5 UST
Spokes: DT Swiss Champion 14 Straight Guage


PS: I'm trying to keep it reasonably light


Also if anyone has some actual weights of these parts that would be awesome

 

[padrik5]

dude im so not in any mood so i'll be the first ass to say

your sucking at liferight now

 

[Urinal Mint]

Ti spokes eh? Looks like a race build on a freeride bike. Pretty damn fancy.

 

[King*Cole]

yeah idk about them spokes probly just go with normal ones

also any suggestions on how to reduce cost at all w/o reducing too much quality?

 

[TWeerts]

get rid of the ex 823's. they are heavy, and overkill. you have light hubs and spokes, and heavy rims. just use the EX 7somethings and put stans in them. much lighter.

also, i think the dirtbag has a 1.5" headtube now, am i wrong? if so, all you would need is either reducer cups (raises stack height, though) or a reducer headset. i recoment the cane creek double xc flush.

 

[King*Cole]

would dt swiss fr 6.1 be better? and would it be lighter to run a chris king with e13 reducer cups or that cane creek?

 

[El Gordo]

The 6.1 are crap from what I have heard and read they are super soft and pricey stick with the 823's awesome rim and hopes nice combo there.. Yeah get rid of the Ti spokes bro its a 9 lb frame... You are building a FR bike, also the E-13 will only work with the Creek cant run a King, cause I have a new King set and I am building a new Blindside and cant use it plus your better off going with a zero stack , I went with the FSA Orbit.. Also I would go with 170mm cranks, I made the mistake of going with 175mm on my preston and was dragging them over eveything.. I would save my money and get a cheaper chain, just my .o2.. Also it seems like you are gonna be pedaling this bike alot especially if your really worried about weight, you may want to run a dual rings and go with a E-13 DRS instead of the LG1 or is this just a FR DH rig???..

 

[El Gordo]

get rid of the ex 823's. they are heavy, and overkill. you have light hubs and spokes, and heavy rims. just use the EX 7somethings and put stans in them. much lighter.

The Mavic 721's are 590gr, Mavic 823's 657gr not a huge diff there doesnt make sense if he wants to run tubless to get 721 and run stans which adds weight when he can go bulletproof and get the 823 and have a kick ass ust rim from the start...

 

[TWeerts]

get what ever you want, but i dont suggest the 823's. 6.1's do tend to dent quick and easy. i would suggest 5.1's.

maybe the new sun mtx 31's? they are 31mm wide. they also make a 36 and a 29. they are stiff, and its hard to dent them.

i think the cane creek reducer(the zero stack one.) would be better.

inmo, the thomson masterpiece is wasted money. id just go for the elite.

 

[King*Cole]

thx any suggestions for spokes or chain?

 

[ZHendo]

spokes, dt all the way. straight gauge if you're on a budget, butted otherwise. i'm pretty sure that straight gauge will feel stiffer than butted. chain, sram or wippermann. both have the quick link setup which is a lifesaver, and they're also great chains.

my input on the build would be get some aluminum bars and also get different grips. i've found the yeti pattern a little bit squirmy, but very nice over bumps. i think that the oury lock ons are the best grips made, thicker for toning down vibrations, but also not squirmy at all.

by the way, the double XC flush is a 1.5 headset, so you won't need e13 cups.

 

[King*Cole]

any suggestions like specific for bar?

are the deitys any good?

 

[psychobiker]

would dt swiss fr 6.1 be better? and would it be lighter to run a chris king with e13 reducer cups or that cane creek?

dt swiss cheese... use some mavic rims if your gona go tubeless my experience with them is awesome

 

[King*Cole]

yeah im gonna go wiht the 823s

 

[King*Cole]

Is the 888 compatible with the E13 direct mount?

 

[Urinal Mint]

Definitely DO NOT get DT rims...they are the most overpriced pieces of crap rims out there. Mavics are great, but also, as someone else said, the new MTX 31s are looking promising. They actually come in 4 different widths this year, I would go with 31s front and rear. I believe they are 630 grams each, and if you are going for the white parts look, they do come in white. They will be available in January through BTI, so talk to your LBS if you want them.

 

[Slater]

KMC makes a really light chain. 250 grams. get one.

Stans rim strips weigh the difference between 721's and 823's so that's a no brainer.

Talked to the guy at my LBS and he said the j-bend on Wheelsmith spokes is beefier than DT, so that's something to think about. I'll be using them for said reason when I lace up my new 823's. Do it.

 

[El Gordo]

Go straight spokes over butted if you want to build a bulletproof wheel.. If you are only going tubless 823's are the only way to go I dont know why anybody would suggest diff .. Bars I would look at, Syncros Bulk, Funn fullon or Fatboys, Sunline V1 or V2, Azonic B52 are nice. Funn Also make s a nice direct mount stem for the 888 I am gonna get it. Chain wise just get a Sram easy to work with they are... If you run the FSA or Cane creek you dont need the reducer cups..

Just wondering are you gonna use this bike for mainly DH or FR and some AM stuff?

 

[El Gordo]

get what ever you want, but i dont suggest the 823's. 6.1's do tend to dent quick and easy. i would suggest 5.1's.


Just curious why would you not suggest 823's but would suggest a 6.1 or a 5.1 knowing he wants to run tubeless??

 

[DirtyMike]

I'm thinking of building up a Dirtbag and so far I've figured out these specs. Tell me what you think. I'm open to suggestions on swapping parts out. Also if anyone has a Dirtbag and could kinda tell me how it rides that would be awesome.


Frame: Transparent Electric Blue Dirtbag (DHX Air Shock Upgrade)
Fork: Marzocchi 888 ATA World Cup
Headset: cane creek double xc flush
Stem: E13 Direct Mount
Shifters: Sram X.0 Right Only
Front Brake: Hope Mono M4
Rear Brake: Hope Mono M4
Handlebar: FSA K-Force DH Riser Bar
Grips: Oury Lock on
Rear Derailleur: Sram X.0 Med Cage
Cassette: Sram PG-990 9 sp
Chain: Wipperman
Chainguide: E13 LG-1
Chaingring: E13 Guidering
Cranks: Middleburn RS7 170 mm
Pedals: Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: WTB Rocket V SLT
Front Hub: Hope Pro II
Rear Hub: Hope Pro II
Rims: Mavic EX 823
Front Tire: Maxxis DHF Minion 2.5 UST
Rear Tire: Maxxis DHR Minion 2.5 UST
Spokes: DT Competition Double Butted
Skewers: Hope Skewers

PS: I'm trying to keep it reasonably light

Couple thoughts, first its a dirtbag, 42lbs your doing good, second DT spokes good, but stick with straight 14guage, wheels, why not Sun Singletrack SL1's. Im 240 thats what i am running. Stick with a coil shock, youll like the ride better, if weight is an issue, get a TI spring, i mean there is a reason why DH bikes are not coming with air shocks. Also, if your worried about weight, dont get maxxis UST tires, get your standard Dual case and run a stans kit, Its lighter. UST tired are as heavy as a tire and tube, Only real Beni is the lack of Pinchflats. Seriosuly I run Maxxis 2.5 Minions, Standard dual caseing on singletracks with a stans kit, it really is lighter. I have teh same bike, Minus the color. Mine green soon to be baby blue in January. n All else looks pretty good

 

[King*Cole]

i am mostly going to be doing freeride with the odd trip to the mountains to do some dh. and does anyone know how much the MTXs will cost compared to the 823s?

 

[El Gordo]

MTX - 60-70 bucks 823 - 80-90 bucks. Dude go 823's especially if your running tubless. The reviews on the MTX are mixed, but the 823 are strong as hell. 823 and hope or hadleys are the best combo, just my .o2.

 

[rigidhack]

i am mostly going to be doing freeride with the odd trip to the mountains to do some dh.

In that case, stay with a coil setup. Any reason for running a DC fork? The longer travel SC's are really nice, and a better choice for a FR bike IMO. If the new D'Bags have a 1.5 head tube, go with a Totem air instead of the 888. Also the Middleburn cranks are expensive and that last I heard they were still running ISIS bottom bracket (yuck!). Look at a Hone Double with an X9 setup. X0 is big time overkill on an FR bike where things like deraileurs get bent/broken/torn off all the time.

This build sort of reads like a laundry list of the "best of the boutique" combined with the "best of the buzz." There is nothing wrong with either the frame or the parts, but they don't match each other. Re-do the build to match the frame if you want a FR bike, or keep the build and get an Intense SOCOM for an uber-light DH bike.

 

[TheMauler]

any suggestions like specific for bar?

are the deitys any good?

YUP there nice, wait till the 08s come out... unless you can get a better deal

 

[El Gordo]

Cole looks like you changed the stats a bit , but you have some overkill stuff for a FR bike.. Like the 888 WC nice for a DH race bike, not needed for a DirtBag FR bike..

Frame is good
For a fork I would go with a Zook 66 ATA its a perfect match for the DB
170mm Saints or Holzfellers, Or if your looking to save weight you can go with the Race Face Atlas I was riding them and I am 240lb they are strong
I would do a dual ring setup over a Single ring
Dont run QR 's you want to run thru axles, the front is gonna be 20mm and the rear your gonna need a 10mm thru axle dont run a QR.
Sram XO RD overkill bro that think is $$ and when you bust it which will happen your gonna be pissed... Sh*t I was and I got mad at myself for spending 90 bucks on the XT Shadow.
823 w/ hopes good choice
Hopes M4 nice but I would go with 08 Codes lighter than the 07 and crazy stopping power..

Basically build it for the riding your gonna do, when you just go for the top end stuff you see in the mags your gonna be mad at yourself later for spending all that $$$ on stuff you didnt need, and you will never make your money back

 

[King*Cole]

yeah this is my first bike that im not buying stock and im kinda just starting into intense freeriding. I dont really know the diff between fr and dh parts so thx for the help

 

[TheMauler]

yeah this is my first bike that im not buying stock and im kinda just starting into intense freeriding. I dont really know the diff between fr and dh parts so thx for the help

ya thats what i was gonna do spend a bunch of money on high end stuff... i was talked out of it by my crew and it saved me alot of money.. gordo is right you cant really recoup all the cash you put into these bikes every now and then you can but it doesnt happen very often.

 

[King*Cole]

so i have to run a front derailleur if i go drs rite? and which one should i get?

 

[RideRMB]

If you dont have a front der. dont get the drs, get the srs, its lighter. and dont get a front der.

 

[DirtyMike]

Frame is good
For a fork I would go with a Zook 66 ATA its a perfect match for the DB

Here is what it looks like with a 66, here is mine

Really is a good combo

 

[psychobiker]

If you dont have a front der. dont get the drs, get the srs, its lighter. and dont get a front der.

maybe he wants to climb, im able to climb on the stinky the drs really helps in the rough totem is what i would replace my triple clamp with but i really like the durability and tunning options on marzocchis. i def want a single crown fork

 

[DirtyMike]

maybe he wants to climb, im able to climb on the stinky the drs really helps in the rough totem is what i would replace my triple clamp with but i really like the durability and tunning options on marzocchis. i def want a single crown fork

Agreed, As you can see in my pics, DRS with 22/38 rings, Oh and instead of ATA get the ETA 66. Nice to be able to lock the fork Down

 

[micahb]

sounds like a conflict of interests here. get the parts that support 90% of the riding you are going to do. most expensive seldom equals best value or quality for the money.

 

[King*Cole]

I think I would like to go with the DRS but I'm still searching for a front derailleur. Also what do you mean by "lock the fork down"

 

[El Gordo]

I think I would like to go with the DRS but I'm still searching for a front derailleur. Also what do you mean by "lock the fork down"

Yeah going with a DRS is a good idea especially if your main riding is gonna be FR and trails and stuff. Well your going with Sram stuff over Shimano right. You can get a X9 Front derailleur
Front Derailleur: 34.9mm Clamp, Top-pull, High Mount SRAM thats what you need for the DB. For a DRS you can go E-13 which I did they make a real nice one, also Wicked Racin has a new one out that looks pretty killer and it incorporates the front derailleur check out there site it explains it and it comes with a front derailleur but its a shimano XT I think you may have to run a Sram not sure on that one..

As for the 66 ETA it uses a feature that locks it out thats what Dirty Mike is talking about here is the ETA explained

By simply using the command during ascent, the suspension will compress to the ideal height (depending on the riders’ weight). Unlike a traditional locking system, when activated, the ETA system allows 30mm travel to overcome small obstacles and improve comfort respect to a total lock.

Yeah either of the two 66's will be awesome trust me this fork rocks and its a perfect match for the Dirtbag talk to transition they say its the best combo as well.

 

[King*Cole]

oh i see you can set it too not have travel for climbs and stuff

also does the wicked racin dualrailleur thingy come with the roller inner plate or do u gotta purchase that seperately. It looks "wicked" lol

 

[DirtyMike]

oh i see you can set it too not have travel for climbs and stuffl

Exactly, when you read the directions, it tells you to just flip the switch and ride, personally i like to load it down a bit, either way you will be limiting the bike to 30mm in the front for that last little thump you get when climbing, and there wont be any bob at all.

 

[King*Cole]

are they specs good now?

 

[joelsman]

i had an 06 dirtbag built up similar, weighed 39.5 with a dhx air.

i also have fsa grivity carbon bars.

and definately get a 1.5 steerer tube.

maxxis ust tires are lighter than reg tires because they have a kevlar bead.

 

[King*Cole]

do you like the air? Is there a difference in quality between air and coil? I'm young and only weigh 120 so air pressure limit isnt a problem.