[Untitled]

Yeah, I know it takes some trial and error to get the right combo of spacers, but for the life of me, I cannot seem to get it perfect. It has a tiny bit of side-to-side play (less than a mm), and when I add a thin spacer, the cranks become too tight to spin. I've taken the spacers off, measured the width with a caliper in order to get the right combo, and what works on paper never fits right. Soooooo:

a) Anyone else experiencing this annoying problem?
b) Is there a secret that I'm not aware of?
c) Does FSA make super ultra thin spacers, like thinner than the ones than come with the cranks?

They're on an 03 Imperial.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Orvan]

Freak had an Imperial with FSA before so u may want to drop him a PM.. u sure you have the right spindle length on the BB?

 

[DßR]

Dude, what BB are you using? A Profile one?

The whole point of X-drives is that you don't have all that spacer bullsh*t.

1 - tighten down driveside cup ALL the way.

2 - install spindle

3 - Put in the red 68mm spacer, maybe add one 3mm spacer in there with it. Actually on my Imperial I think I used a little more than 3mm extra, I wanted the lockring to have a little room to thread on. Maybe more like 6mm extra spacers...

4 - tighten down non-driveside cup until the bearing JUST barely touches the spacer.

5 - making sure not to turn the cup any, install the lockring over the non-drive cup, and tighten the sucker [the lockring, that is] down.



They don't go together quite like Profiles, they're MUCH better.

 

[Untitled]

I was referring to the spacers that go between the crank arm and the bb shell on either side. The bb assembly is fine, using the steps you have listed.

 

[dhmtbj]

I'd check to see if the outside spacers are hitting the bearings where they should not(like on the seals of the bearings). thats my only guess.

 

[Guntruck]

Yes, but what your problem is, is inside bearing spacing. You dont have enough spacing on the inside so when you tighten the cranks down they're pushing the bearings towards eachother and theres ntohing inside pushing back to keep them streight... so they get all tight and wont spin.... add more spacing inside.

 

[DßR]

Untitled - Oh okay I see what you're talking about.

The way I kinda work around that issue is this - tighten the drive-side arm down all the way, till it bottoms out on the spindle. Use whatever spacers you need between the chainring and the driveside BB cup so that you get your chainline where you want it.

For the non-drive side, I put in enough spacers so that when the arm touches the spacers, it'll clear the rear triangle of the frame. Tighten down the non-drive arm until it just touches the spacers and won't give any side-to-side play. Obviously, it won't be bottomed out on the spindle, but if you set it up right, there's pretty deep spindle insertion.

At this point, I back out the non-drive-side crank bolt, clean it and the threads inside the BB spindle with alcohol, and load up the bolt with Blue Loctite. Put the bolt back, and never touch it for another year until I have to replace the bearings or chainring.

 

[Untitled]

Thanks a trillion for the tip. Very helpful. Karma Gods will get you back.