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Headset race?

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by kuksul08, Feb 22, 2008.

  1. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    I am changing lower crowns and I think I need to take off the bearing race?

    It's a circular shiny thing on the bottom of the steerer tube, butted up against the crown. Looks like its pressed on. Also looks like marzocchi put a little indent for a screwdriver on the crown. I tried prying but it won't come off. Advice?

    Also, how am I supposed to put it on the new steerer?

    Edit: I used my knife and a hammer to get it started then used half of a needlenose to pry it off, surprisingly that little guy is tough and didn't bend at all.

    Now..to reinstall it. I might just go to the shop which has the $70 park tool
     

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  2. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Also, can I reuse the star nut? I pushed it out of the old tube and for some reason it got smaller, so I just bent out the teeth with a needlenose and it looks fine (i dont really know, its not all that important of a part right?)
     
  3. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    I tap mine off with a screwdriver and a plastic faced hammer. Work alternately each side until it pops loose. Don't be afraid to give it a pretty good whack. If that doesn't work take the crown into your LBS and chances are they'll pop it off with a crown race puller for free.

    To reinstall cut a footlong section of 1 1/4" PVC pipe to use as a setter. Whack it down with the plastic faced hammer.

    Get a new star nut. They're cheap but fragile. If you don't have the starnut tool use a 1/4" drive deep socket, drop the bolt out through the bottom of the socket and thread the new starnut on. Whack it in with the hammer to a depth of 15mm.



    Have fun and watch your eyes!

    Some terminology...

    A caged ball bearing headset uses a "crown race."

    A sealed ball bearing headset (Chris King) uses a "baseplate."
     
  4. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    It's very important to get the steerer stack drawn down to a proper preloaded condition to ensure the long life of the bearings. A loose starnut will prevent you from tightening things up properly.

    Be sure the new steerer is cut 3mm below the top of the stem when everything is assembled. You don't want the top cap bottoming out on the steerer tube.
     
  5. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Thanks Dartman! Unfortunately I don't really have any tools haha. I'm not sure yet how I'm going to cut my steerer tube.

    I was planning on just using a large allen wrench to push the star nut back in, then tapping one side or the other until it's perfectly aligned.

    The starnut I have looks fine. Could it still fail? I've heard of people reusing them before but I dont have much experience. The metal teeth are still stiff and springy.

    Thanks again
     
  6. r464

    r464 Turbo Monkey

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    Spend the few dollars for a new starnut.
     
  7. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Yea I will it's like $2 hahaha
     
  8. Quo Fan

    Quo Fan don't make me kick your ass

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    Cut the steerer tube with either a pipe cutter or a hack saw. If you use a hack saw, use a saw guide to get a straight cut. If you use a pipe cutter, file the end smooth, because the cutter will flare the tube slightly.
     
  9. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    I didn't have tools either when I started working on bikes. I purchased the tools I needed as I went along.

    I have quite a collection now and can do just about anything on a bike short of frame work. I'm a firm believer in the right tool for the job. Mistakes can be expensive.
     
  10. r464

    r464 Turbo Monkey

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    Pipe cutters work excellently (well, except for carbon steerers on road forks...). They also cut the tube perfectly perpendicularly.

    Don't just hack away at it and do a nasty job. If you are not going to be installing a fork regularly, and you do not have the tools you need, just go ahead and pay the small amount you will need to at a shop. A good local shop won't charge you too much and won't take more than a few minutes.
     
  11. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    REMEMBER!: Measure twice and cut once!

    You can cut more off but you can't put it back on.



    Sorry kuksul :p
     
  12. binary visions

    binary visions The voice of reason

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    See this thread and the links contained within:

    http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174613

    Best tool for the job is a hacksaw. Period.
     
  13. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Hey, I didn't cut it first! It was like that when I bought it used. :P


    Its pretty frustrating because here I am at school with a small toolbox with the basic tools, and I would hate to have to buy duplicate tools or pay someone to do something that I could do when I'm at home. My dad has everything I would need to do this... too bad that's 200 miles away
     
  14. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    Would the person that tried to help you extend the old one be available to cut the new one to length?

    If not at this point your LBS may be your best option. It wouldn't cost as much as purchasing the tools for them to do it for you.
     
  15. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Well I made the extension here at school in the machine shop. Maybe I could use the band saw haha
     
  16. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing! :cheers:

    I would think a machine shop would have a fine toothed hacksaw and a pipe cutting guide you could use. But if you can get a square cut on the bandsaw go for it!