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How to Print RM shirts 101

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
yep Bishes I got mine… (well actually I just started printing a few)


Starts out as a design then a stencil.


To put the stencil on a screen, and expose the screen.


Rinse the unexposed emulsion out of the screen.


Tape off all of the open areas on the screen.


Shirts came in…


Put the shirt on the press and print!


The front (charcoal color)


The back… This one doesn't have the .com on it because of a problem with the screen, but a new screen was burned,and I will be ready to print


let me know what you think!
any changes?
 

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
This makes me feel old but when I was a kid....
We had to cut out the stencil with an exacto knife. This wasn't that long ago either.
I still teach hand cut, for spot fill applications. When we do a screen print on glass, I use hand cut stencils to do fill work... some of the kids really like the "hands on" of cutting stencils! :thumb: it's tough to do real fine detail, but a cool process none the less!

robdamanii said:
So the finished shirt we see is the finished product then?
what are you asking? do you want a shirt without rm.com on it? just say it in the email. But yes this is the consensus of what everyone wanted.

BadDNA said:
Looks great! But where's the fire extinguisher?
SH!T...! I knew I forgot something...
 

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
Nice work. and do you have your students doing it as a class project ?
no, this was done through out the day as a demonstration, and I am putting together a power point with these pics and more as a demonstration/preproject explanation. Travis, the student you see in the pics was helping demonstrate to the underclassmen. he is one of my best students, and can really see the designs before he does them... great vision... all of the actual printing is done after school :thumb: I don't have time during the day to print!
 

Tame Ape

BUY HOPE!!!!!!!
Mar 4, 2003
2,284
1
NYC
I want a vacuum/exposure unit! Waah!

What emulsion are you using?
Mesh count?
Water-base or plastisol?
 

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
Brunge!! Dude!!! You rock!! Can't wait to get mine. In charcoal! :thumb:
right on, THanks...

shoot me the email, make sure you tell me what size... Just charcoal with white? does it matter to you if you have ridemonkey.com on it?

Tame Ape said:
I want a vacuum/exposure unit! Waah!

What emulsion are you using?
Mesh count?
Water-base or plastisol?
vacuum exposure unit is essential... home printers will tell you different (i have done a ton of printing without one), but it really makes a difference when you are printing multi color jobs with close registration, and minimal trapping!

right now I use RLX (cheap high solids and slightly forgiving...) I am going to experiment with a few others though...the ChromaBlue sounds interesting, a pure photopolymer for about $60 a gallon! fast exposing, high solids and the shelf life is 24 months! that shelf life is a huge benefit to me, cause we do printing at a bunch of different times in the year, and the emulsion may sit for a few months without being touched!

mesh count on these (cause I am printing white on dark colors) I am using a fairly open meshcount of 110. It is not the best for fine detail, but it does fine for this design, and really makes the printing easier. (since I have to manually flash each shirt, I will take any help I can get)

Inks, I am using Plastisol (for textile) and Nazdar 9700 series for printing on glass, vinyl, wood, metal etc . I would like to try discharge inks down the road, but my room is right across from the cafeteria, and the ventilation is not the greatest. So I will have to hold off for now, or try the discharge inks over the summer when noone is here!
I use house paint for printing some of the flatstock we have experimented with! this is super cheap ink, if you go to a Big Box Home improvement place that will sell you their mis-mixed paints for a buck a quart, or 4-5 bucks a gal. I have a bunch like that. I suplement that by buying the primaries etc.
:thumb:
 

Tame Ape

BUY HOPE!!!!!!!
Mar 4, 2003
2,284
1
NYC
There is a fromal-free discharge out there. Its from a company called Wilflex. The full product name is "Wilflex Oasis NF Plascharge (Non-Fromaldehyde) Discharge Ink.

I have no experience with it and only came across it at SGIA 06 (printing conference in Vegas). I have used a local company's discharge 'ink'. I wear a ventilator!
 

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
There is a fromal-free discharge out there. Its from a company called Wilflex. The full product name is "Wilflex Oasis NF Plascharge (Non-Fromaldehyde) Discharge Ink.

I have no experience with it and only came across it at SGIA 06 (printing conference in Vegas). I have used a local company's discharge 'ink'. I wear a ventilator!

the company I use for most of my ordering (Wild Side North) is pretty against the idea of me using any discharge inks while school is in session. The shop I work at here and there (when they need a hand) used to use discharge inks a lot, but they were not fond of the byproducts and dangers? I don't know much about it myself... but I am a teacher and should learn it anyway... the kids should at least have knowledge of its existance, and how it works!

Konabumm said:
so thats how it works
in brief yes... :thumb:
 

Tame Ape

BUY HOPE!!!!!!!
Mar 4, 2003
2,284
1
NYC
Fromal will get you lit up too. Its understandable why the local shop would be against it. Maybe the Wilflex is more agreeable? Its certainly worth a phone call.
 

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
Fromal will get you lit up too. Its understandable why the local shop would be against it. Maybe the Wilflex is more agreeable? Its certainly worth a phone call.
yep! I will check into it...

what are you using to dry/convert the inks in? do you have a dryer?
 

Tame Ape

BUY HOPE!!!!!!!
Mar 4, 2003
2,284
1
NYC
yep! I will check into it...

what are you using to dry/convert the inks in? do you have a dryer?
Everything I use is water base. It made the most sense from a DIY perspective. We have a heat gun that we use to dry ink during multi-color runs and a laundromat across the street for the final heat setting. Nothing too technical or expensive. Space is a premium in the studio too.
 

brungeman

I give a shirt
Jan 17, 2006
5,170
0
da Burgh
Everything I use is water base. It made the most sense from a DIY perspective. We have a heat gun that we use to dry ink during multi-color runs and a laundromat across the street for the final heat setting. Nothing too technical or expensive. Space is a premium in the studio too.
shoot a pic or 2 of your set up! let me know if there is anything I can help you with!
 

H8R

Cranky Pants
Nov 10, 2004
13,959
35
Great, now I have to take pics of my shop so I can be all cool like you guys.

:D


Nice work!
 

H8R

Cranky Pants
Nov 10, 2004
13,959
35
I found a reference pic, I have the table top version of this unit:
 

H8R

Cranky Pants
Nov 10, 2004
13,959
35
vacuum exposure unit is essential... home printers will tell you different (i have done a ton of printing without one), but it really makes a difference when you are printing multi color jobs with close registration, and minimal trapping!
Agreed. Eventually I want a single point unit for better halftone stuff.

...the ChromaBlue sounds interesting, a pure photopolymer for about $60 a gallon! fast exposing, high solids and the shelf life is 24 months! that shelf life is a huge benefit to me, cause we do printing at a bunch of different times in the year, and the emulsion may sit for a few months without being touched!
Hmm..I will take a look at that. I just switched from Chromaline to Ulano 925WR water resistant and I am quite pleased with it. That's what I used years ago when I worked for a shop.

Mesh count on these (cause I am printing white on dark colors) I am using a fairly open meshcount of 110. It is not the best for fine detail, but it does fine for this design, and really makes the printing easier. (since I have to manually flash each shirt, I will take any help I can get)
110 makes pushing that goop way easier too.

Inks, I am using Plastisol (for textile) and Nazdar 9700 series for printing on glass, vinyl, wood, metal etc .

Another tip for Tame Ape here: get some Nazdar water based ink and some of their catalyst. You can say to hell with the laundry mat.

You have to mix the ink in small amounts though, once the catalyst is mixed in the ink has about an 8 hour shelf life before it gels. It allows you to hang the prints and air dry them. In about 72 hours the ink is washable.
 

H8R

Cranky Pants
Nov 10, 2004
13,959
35
One more tip:

Avoid Union Ink's water based opaque white. Like the plague. It dries in the screen faster than you can print. I lost three screens because of it. Only thing that got the ink out was reclaiming the stencil and then generous amounts of de-hazing solution. Total super crap.

:rant: