I'm new to downhilling and triple clamp forks. I am getting ready to buy Boxxers for my Gemini. I know that I need a reducing headset but what I am not sure about is do I need tall crown or short. And is there much differences in the stems which size or name is the best to go with?
Installing Boxxer on Gemini Help
- Thread starter tirader
- Start date
a good and simple option would be to buy a e13 reducer headset, and the e13 ALI stem, youll also need to buy a canecreek IS2 or similar headset to scavenge the fork race, conical spacer, and bearings from.
normally youll get a tall crown with aftermarket boxxers.
another great option would be the canecreek "flush" reducer headset, and a thomson x4 stem.
normally youll get a tall crown with aftermarket boxxers.
another great option would be the canecreek "flush" reducer headset, and a thomson x4 stem.
I just got the cane creek reduction headset for my new frame, do you guys like them?
nope, can't stand it. probably one of the worst headsets i've ever bought. the fsa does a better job for that one. and the E-13 reducers do a even better job. not just lower stack height. but better bearing quality and such.manhattanprjkt83 said:
What is it that you dont like specifically? Just wondering?DHS said:
that too. sure when they first came out, they never had the right lower race. but still now they're horrible. i've had to regrease a friend of mine twice in the last month. and the plastic seals just get in the way, or just create more dragcoma13 said:
What year is your Gemini? Any Gemini before 2004 is not meant to work with forks that tall and the increased stress on the head tube could cause "catastrophic failure" (exact words from Cannondale when I called about the 888).
I went with an '04 Marzocchi Super T. Makes the bike very balanced with 170mm on both ends.
Tom
I went with an '04 Marzocchi Super T. Makes the bike very balanced with 170mm on both ends.
Tom
so there is an fsa option that is a bit better? I am new the 1.5 thing...
DHS said:
sure this is the right forum?
thanks for the input i think i will be running e.13 cups with an fsa pig on my bottlerocket 
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i've had 2 differnet boxxers on my gemini. I've used the canecreek zero stack with no problems. The fork height thing shouldn't be a problem cause with the reducer headset and the low height of the boxxers I'm way lower than with the stock breakout plus. I wouldn't go with an 8 inch boxxer though, get the 7 inch ride, geometry feels much better.
i believe you mean an IS internal headset, not a zero stack headsetBicyclist said:
GOD NO. I got rid of my breakout plus and it was the best part upgrade I made. You can get the rides for relatively "cheap". Sell your breakout for 100 bucks or whatever you can get and get the ride. The 06's are buttery plush. As good as zoke but for way better price.tirader said:
Yeah the Shermans suck for small bumps...The Super T I put on my Gemini feels so much better!
so someone give me a model the recomend? I want to get the most low profile set up out there...gemini2k said:i believe you mean an IS internal headset, not a zero stack headset
Buy the E13 reducers and FSA bearings from Go-ride
http://www.go-ride.com/prod_headsets.html
You get the reducers for $39 and the races and spacer for an additional $36, way easier than ordering the reducers and a headset then trying to figure out what you need to keep and what you throw away.
This stuff isn't that difficult to understand, nothing like a DW link or even setting up a chainguide. Honestly I'm suprised people can't figure out the E13 reducer cups by now, they've been around for what 2 years and still people are asking questions like they were just released yesterday. I believe Acadian has a good picture of the headset showing where to put the bearings, races and spacer.
http://www.go-ride.com/prod_headsets.html
You get the reducers for $39 and the races and spacer for an additional $36, way easier than ordering the reducers and a headset then trying to figure out what you need to keep and what you throw away.
This stuff isn't that difficult to understand, nothing like a DW link or even setting up a chainguide. Honestly I'm suprised people can't figure out the E13 reducer cups by now, they've been around for what 2 years and still people are asking questions like they were just released yesterday. I believe Acadian has a good picture of the headset showing where to put the bearings, races and spacer.
cane creek zero stack reducing headset http://canecreek.com/double_x_flush.htmlmanhattanprjkt83 said:
aka double xc flush
I appreciate the advice but relax man, i was the head shop wrench for 4 years, i know my way around a bike, never had to reduce a 1.5 at all, i value opinions of riders on here and was wondering what you suggest...Kornphlake said:
Bicyclist said:
I own that i am hearing bad things, i want a zero stack sleek set up...
the lowest set up:
e-13 reducers
FSA 'orbit IS' or any of the IS ( is2 is6 is8) headsets from cane creek
install crown race
install reeducers into frame
install bearings into reudcers
instal the compression ring
install micro spacer (thin steel hs spacer)
install stem (thats right skip the top 'dust cap')
tatal stack height = 11mm (4.5 top, 6.5 bottom)
e-13 reducers
FSA 'orbit IS' or any of the IS ( is2 is6 is8) headsets from cane creek
install crown race
install reeducers into frame
install bearings into reudcers
instal the compression ring
install micro spacer (thin steel hs spacer)
install stem (thats right skip the top 'dust cap')
tatal stack height = 11mm (4.5 top, 6.5 bottom)
Your shop either did a lot of work on road bikes exclusively, or is on the fringe of going out of business. I can't belive that by now you haven't had to reduce a 1.5. I'm not trying to insult you at all, rather the RM masses that two years later still can't figure out the E13 reducer system, it's not as simple as just pressing the cups into the head tube like a CK headset but it's not rocket science. I understand why E13 doesn't want to get into the business of supplying bearings but there seems to be a severe lack of information on how to get the necessary equipment to use the reducer cups. As far as I've seen Go-Ride is the only shop to actually reccomend the appropriate bearings at the time of purchase.manhattanprjkt83 said:
i worked at a shop for 4 years a cannondale dealer no less and the first 1.5 that i think we ever had to reduce was my gemini. So..........and our shop has been in business for like 25 years and still going strong......so......and were not a gay roadie shop
this was over 5 years ago...we didnt have 1.5 then.Kornphlake said:
exactly.gemini2k said:
I can't believe a cannondale dealer of all dealers has only had to reduce 1 headset in 4 years. Didn't cannondale sell stock bikes with reducers in 2001 or 2002? I remember seeing Manitou Black forks on jekylls on a dealer's floor, either they came assembled from the factory or the mechanics learned what to do to make the fork fit in the headset. I loved the feel of the old cannondale hardtails but never liked the headshock system, it always felt oversprung to me. Others must have agreed with me because for just about as long as the system has existed there have been reducers available to use a standard 1.125 fork. Although they were somewhat rare 5 years ago with the 1.5 standard spreading outside of Canondale's corporate walls I've seen plenty of options, some quite simple others more complex but none as difficult as lacing a wheel or changing the seals in a fork.
At any rate there are a number of options out there, including headsets from FSA and Cane Creek that look like and install exactly the same as a 1.125 headset but reduce from a 1.5 to 1.125.
At any rate there are a number of options out there, including headsets from FSA and Cane Creek that look like and install exactly the same as a 1.125 headset but reduce from a 1.5 to 1.125.
Ah, ninja post got me, if you haven't worked at a shop for over 5 years I can understand. Still it's not new technology at this point, if you've been active on the forums and paying attention to the latest and greatest you should have a pretty good understanding of the system by now.
That is the point of my questions, i know they are available, i even own one. I was asking what others thought of them, apparently they are not the best option. Thus my questions surrounding the reduction cups.Kornphlake said:
headsets come on the bikes from the factoryKornphlake said: