Quantcast

Installing new fork

Aug 28, 2007
18
0
I jsut got some new marzocchis and this fork is my first dual crown. I have a FSA pig 1.5 headset with the reducers to 1-1/8. Where the bottom reducer slides over the steer tube do i need to put a spacer or anything else under there? There are quiet a few spacers that came with the fork but the very bottom of the steer tube gets slightly larger at the bottom so none of the spacers fit. Im jsut kinda lost on how it all goes together
 

coma13

Turbo Monkey
Feb 14, 2006
1,082
0
you need the crown race. if you had another fork installed in that headset already you'll probably have to get it off of the other fork's steerer tube as it's still pressed on there.
 

buildyourown

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2004
4,832
0
South Seattle
You need to go to a bike shop. The will have the correct tools for removing you old crown race from your old fork and installing it on your new fork.
Yes a skilled mechanic can do this at home but since you don't even know how it's supposed to go together and having you fork fall off really hurts, go to a shop.
 
Aug 28, 2007
18
0
ok i think i got the idea. i took some pictures to calrify incase im describing it wrong.

the first pic i have is the reducer that goes form the 1.5" to 1 1/8" with the bearing ontop.

the second is the same but i just held it up a bit higher to get a good view.

the third is how it sits on my frame

the last pic is the reducer.

in my case since i have a reducer is this the part that gets press fit or do i stillahve to go in the bike shop and have them press a crown race on the steer tube? the reducer has a chamfered edge suggesting that it might get pressed?
 

Attachments

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
OK, lets see if we can figure some of this out....


That part that you are calling the 'reducer' is the crown race. It needs to be pressed onto the steer tube of your new fork. As a home mechanic, the easiest way to do this is to get a piece of PVC pipe just big enough to fit over the steer tube (and longer than the steer tube). Place the crown race on the fork, then the PVC...turn the whole assembly upside down and tap on the floor untill the crown race is tight against the crown. (the upside down part protects the dropouts form impact if you were to just use a hammer).

YOUR BEARING IS UPSIDE DOWN if you install the bearings it this orientation, you will shortly have shiny metalic powder in place of a headset...turn it over.

The upper bearing goes in as a mirror image of the lower one.

Once you get this far, post here again and someone can help you adjust/finish the install.


Oh yea, are you sure the steer tube is long enough for your bike???
 
Aug 28, 2007
18
0
yeah the steer tube is looong, its never been cut. I bought the forks on ebay and i dont think they were ever used. It came with the manual and all the spacers still in the bag. I have a hydraulic and lever press in the garage with diff. size blocks and all that so now that i know for sure thats the race getting it in is no problem. oh yeah i didnt notice the bearing was upside down thanks for the heads up. I will [post more pics when i get my rims next. thanks for the help:lighten:
 

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
Be a little careful with the press. That crown is forged aluminum, and it will not like much force applied in ways it was not designed for.

I honestly think using something to 'hammer' the race on is a safer bet. They are not that tight, you should be able to hold the fork in one hand and tap the race on if you can find something to use as a 'slide hammer'.


you will need to cut the steer tube (hack saw) once you figure how long it needs to be (total lenght of head tube with headset, plus upper crown thickness, plus stem clamp width, plus spacers.... Best bet is to cut or leave it long and take up some extra length with extra steer tube spacers.
 
Aug 28, 2007
18
0
well i was gonna set it up in the press and decided agianst it. I took a 4x4 piece of wood and clamped it on our steel work bench. I put that right under the lower crown and used a brass punch and hanner to tap it till it bottomed out. thanks for the help guys
 

deadatbirth

Monkey
Aug 29, 2007
657
0
In a van down by the river
well i was gonna set it up in the press and decided agianst it. I took a 4x4 piece of wood and clamped it on our steel work bench. I put that right under the lower crown and used a brass punch and hanner to tap it till it bottomed out. thanks for the help guys
a brass punch and hammer? gee that sounds like a bad idea. did you nick or damage the headset race?
also you shoulda looked into a sealed headset
 

DirtyMike

Turbo Fluffer
Aug 8, 2005
14,437
1,017
My own world inside my head
Be a little careful with the press. That crown is forged aluminum, and it will not like much force applied in ways it was not designed for.
I.


Very good point, Instead of trying ti fir the fork into an Actual Hydralic press, Use teh Pvc method, Otherwords Tip the guy at the LBS a couple bucks to use the right tool and set the race for you.
 

buildyourown

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2004
4,832
0
South Seattle
a brass punch and hammer? gee that sounds like a bad idea. did you nick or damage the headset race?
also you shoulda looked into a sealed headset
Hmmm,
Brass punch vs. hardened steel crown race
Which one do you think will win?


Desert: The brass punch will work ok. It's important the the crown race is bottomed out all the way around and that it is sitting square. That's why most people use a slide hammer.