Hey guys, is the only difference between Juicy 5's and 7's the absence of the lever adjustment knob? And maybe some negligable weight difference?
Im considering just buying some Juicy 5s.
Im considering just buying some Juicy 5s.
Juicy 5 vs. Juicy 7 (sorry, this is bike related)
- Thread starter BurlyShirley
- Start date
According to the Sram tech, before there were carbons, the 5s weighed the same. He said they advertised the 7s lighter, for you know, to sell more.
I can do the same thing with the 5s that the 7s do with a 2mm hex wrench. I like my 5s better than my 7s. I don't know if it's the lever finish or what, but that's my take.
I can do the same thing with the 5s that the 7s do with a 2mm hex wrench. I like my 5s better than my 7s. I don't know if it's the lever finish or what, but that's my take.
Cool. That's what I figured, just missing that stupid red knob.
R
richcreek
Guest
the 5's come standard on almost all of the 06 specialized enduro, bighit, and demo serries bikes. i think only like 2 of the demos have the 7 and some enduros i am not shure what they run, hayes maby?
After over a year riding the 7's I still can't figure out what the red knob doesBurlyShirley said:
I fact on my second ride with them I crashed and ripped it off and they still work fine. I have the 5's on my XC bike and they work just as good as the 7's.
I have one 5, and I love it.
I'm going to get more of them!
I'm going to get more of them!
It basically turns the lever adjustment screw on the inside of the lever. I am not sure why they call it pad contact adjustment.Snacks said:After over a year riding the 7's I still can't figure out what the red knob does
I have the 5's on my XC bike and they work just as good as the 7's.
get the 5's they are rock solid and no extra cash
I have both and I can't tell the difference.
The 5s are by fare the better deal.
The 5s are by fare the better deal.
My guess is that it decreases the volume of the fluid in the master cylinder. The excess fluid is used to partially push the pistons towards the caliper, essentially giving you a pad contact adjustment.pepe said:It basically turns the lever adjustment screw on the inside of the lever. I am not sure why they call it pad contact adjustment.
Because it's pad contact adjustment. It determines how far you have to squeeze the lever for it to activate. The hex inside of the lever determines where the starting point of the lever is. I like my 7s, but I would never pay for them. Thank god they came OEM.pepe said:It basically turns the lever adjustment screw on the inside of the lever. I am not sure why they call it pad contact adjustment.
You all know that there is a little worm gear on the lever reach adjustment screw that is moved by the red knob, right? Same thing as the lever reach adjustment screw, but no hex wrench involved.
You sure about that Peepee? I think Bicyclist is right, they are not the same.
More importantly, what's with that pin holding the lever in on my Juicy Fives? All it does is wiggle dangerously closely to falling out. Does the adjustment knob on the Seven help remedy that?
I'd have spent the extra thirty bucks if that would fix all that.
I'd have spent the extra thirty bucks if that would fix all that.
I knowly know Hope... 
I would like to get some hopes. In fact, I may, its just a matter of whether or not its worth it. I've heard alot of good about the Juicy 7's but if there is some negligable difference thats going to cost me a hundred extra bucks, Im not gunna spend it, and I'd go with the 5's. The Hopes are super blingy, but some brakes have or had fit problems with the Chameleon. I dunno yet.
Yes - I have had them all apart. The stupid thing is, the worm gear piece goes into the open system, so if you back it out too far you let air in.OGRipper said:
My friend had Hopes and they were not all they were cracked up to be. He had nothing but mechanical problems with them. That and it made this dreadful squeel/pulse noise every time he tried to brake. No matter how they were set up either. Eventually one line just blew out of the lever on him and after wasting time and money on pads and lines (they ate pads) he gave up and sold them for a set of Mags. I would stick with the Avids if I were you.BurlyShirley said:
Um, if the gear goes into the open system, it's more than just a reach adjustment. I have never disassembled one but I still think you are wrong.pepe said:
The reach adjustment dictates how close the lever is to the bar at the beginning of the throw. The contact point adjustment dictates how much throw you get from the starting point.
That's what mine do anyway.
pepe said:
It's not quite the same thing though...Turning the red knob will not adjust the lever reach, at least not on my Avids it doesn't. The red knob adjusts where in the lever's travel the pad will make contact.
So it doesn't matter where I set the my lever reach to, the Pad contact knob can be set so the pads engage early in the lever travel or in the middle, etc.
Just BUY HOPES!!!!!
Damnit!!!!!
Damnit!!!!!
BurlyShirley said:
There are a few places that still have 2005 Avids in stock. You can pick up the 7s or 5s pretty cheap.
Yeah, Ive been digging pretty good and found some good prices. But Im not going to pay for a little red knob if I find out its pretty useless. I probably will end up just buying some 5s.Joe Pozer said:
It's not useless. Peepee is wrong. Maybe not strictly needed but still, not useless. The contact point adjustment is great, especially as your pads wear down, or if you bend a rotor on the trail, or if it's really sloppy one day, or...well, 'nuff said.BurlyShirley said:
Fair enough.OGRipper said:
Is it worth $40 per brake?
BurlyShirley said:
It really is a personal preference...I like the Pad contact knob (meaning that it is worth the extra $40 to me) but as you've read in this thread, other people don't really use it.
It is worth 80 of your dollars to me.BurlyShirley said:
Seriously, I don't know if it's worth it to you, but it's a good feature. I like it enough to go for the 7's when I bought my second set of avids, but I tend to like lots of adjustability. If the stock setting on the 5's is ok for you, you probably won't miss it much.
I wish they didn't run dot fluid. They are easy to work on though. Pads are easy to get cheap. They seem to take a beating.
^^^ What he said. I :love: my Hopes.Brian HCM#1 said:
NO! they are a self adjusting hydrulic system. Simply put they adjust for pad wear automaticly, this is true of the 5s and the 7s. Both brakes have the same lever reach adjuster and indeed the same basic lever design. As far as I can tell that knob does nothing but break off when you crash and make your bike look sh1ty Save the cash for something worth the money, like beer or dirty magazines.BurlyShirley said:
I like my 7's.
brungeman said:PEEPEE is right!
I had 7's, on the Fisher, and 5's now on the Yeti! they stop just as well, the 7's have that "cool looking"little star adjuster knob that isn't really necessary.
You will not be disappointed by the 5's at all.
I call BS here. Either you don't or haven't put long rides heading in the down hill position. The red knob is key, and the 5's are bogus. Get the 7's.
To begin with, you can always adjust the lever to exactly where you need contact. As pads wear, you can adjust the contact point. During long DH's, you will find that the levers will start to engage closer to the bars... turn the knob, and you're free.
Switch to a new wheel set... adjust the knob for new discs, and you're off.
Don't think that contact point is key? well, you're probably using two fingers for breaking... if thats the case, steet straight to the hospital. contact points closer to the handle bar means more control, one finger breaking means even MORE control.
The avid Juicy 7's are simply the best on the market... unless you don't take riding seriously.
You're an idiot. Don't post BS if you don't know what you're talking about.maxyedor said:
Both have a reach adjuster (even a walmart bike has that), but the red knob is a contact point. Pull the lever back, and when you want it to contact the brakes, thats where it starts to resist. You can move that in and out.
Again, you're full of crap. On a long descent, when you're constantly on the brakes, both systems will wear and not always automatically return itself. Sure, it will contact, but where? Again, if you DH (perhaps you don't), moving that contact point around is key.... better than pumping a system that may result in a crash.
Who to believe?
It's true the 7's and 5's are self adjusting. But if you don't like how they self adjust, you can change the contact point on the 7's.BurlyShirley said:
Whether it's worth it or not is your call, but the people who are saying it's the same as reach adjustment, or that it doesn't do anything, are just wrong.
I need a refill...
BurlyShirley said:
Have you considered Shimano XT's? With the seperate XT levers they are pretty nice.
BurlyShirley said:
jesus - he ll never lie
partsbara said:
Does he have a web site and take paypal?
Now that I think about it, the open part is what makes the pad contact work. I think it must compess or open up the fluid pressure when you turn the knob. I honestly can't feel a ton of difference. I will say that if you turn the knob, you will see the lever move. Maybe it does adjust the pressure.
I did not ever say that it does nothing. Even if I don't think it moves the pads, which I am kind of thinking it does, I never said it does nothing.
Curious how many people that are so passionate about their thoughts on this have had the lever assembly and the master cylinder apart?
I did not ever say that it does nothing. Even if I don't think it moves the pads, which I am kind of thinking it does, I never said it does nothing.
Curious how many people that are so passionate about their thoughts on this have had the lever assembly and the master cylinder apart?