[no skid marks]

love the raw. are these built to custom numbers? what's the current sell price?

yeah, custom head angle, top tube, bb height, and stay length.Mine was even more of a pesty build making room for an Avalanche shock, and floater mount, oh and clear coat(may not last, we'll see). Floater might not be ideal either, I had it from a Racelink, and had a 135mm I9 hub, so I'll give it a whirl.
Price is about 16-1700 NZ without spec or wierd mods(like mine)I think. Google currency converter for your price. Get in quick though, always a waiting list.

 

[no skid marks]

http://img168.imageshack.us/i/iphonenov10392.jpg/
Looooove it.

 

[monkeyfcuker]

Needs moar pics!

 

[no skid marks]

Will get better pics later.

 

[ocelot]

siiiiiiiiiiiiick bike!

soooo, how does it ride??

 

[Rip]

If I'm not mistaken I believe the major point of their patent involves having a pivot on the chainstay near the rear axle. There's some other stuff that goes along with it regarding axle paths and whatnot (I *think*), but this is normally what gets companies in trouble.

The only company I can think of offhand that gets away with using a chainstay pivot near the rear axle and DOESN'T pay licensing fees to S'ped is Chumba Racing, but they have documentation that proves they were using this before Specialized was.

Fuji as well, only because they counter sued for specialized using the word Roubaix as a name for one of their road bikes.

 

[time-bomb]

Mmmmm, I'm diggin' the raw

Just curious, can it be made w/a 1.5 head tube or is that an issue with steel for some reason (I don't think I have ever seen a steel frame w/a 1.5 HT).

Also, if you are running the floater, can you use any 135mm rear wheel as long as it is dished properly or does it require some type of modification? I know on some frames in past that used a floater only worked w/certain hubs.

 

[Sandwich]

You know, I've wondered that myself, but I think I answered my own question...I had a brooklyn with a 135mm rear end and a floater. I managed to switch hubs from what I thought was a custom hope (had the removable bearing cap on the floater side) but I threw another through-axle hub on it, and it was fine. You just have to dish the wheel properly so there is no dish. Instead of the normal offset on a 135mm hub and wheel, you have none, similar to a 150, I believe. I think I have seen some frames that require a special hub...the rotec and lawwills come to mind.

 

[no skid marks]

Mmmmm, I'm diggin' the raw

Just curious, can it be made w/a 1.5 head tube or is that an issue with steel for some reason (I don't think I have ever seen a steel frame w/a 1.5 HT).

Also, if you are running the floater, can you use any 135mm rear wheel as long as it is dished properly or does it require some type of modification? I know on some frames in past that used a floater only worked w/certain hubs.

One of the main reasons of 1.5 coming out is that fat tube ally frames tubes have a better surface to weld to. Not really an issue with thiner diameter cromo tubes. I did ask for a 1.5 so I could run different width adaptors for custom geo, or K9s angle cups, but Katipo rathered use the 1 1/8th, wasn't that big a deal with me.

You know, I've wondered that myself, but I think I answered my own question...I had a brooklyn with a 135mm rear end and a floater. I managed to switch hubs from what I thought was a custom hope (had the removable bearing cap on the floater side) but I threw another through-axle hub on it, and it was fine. You just have to dish the wheel properly so there is no dish. Instead of the normal offset on a 135mm hub and wheel, you have none, similar to a 150, I believe. I think I have seen some frames that require a special hub...the rotec and lawwills come to mind.

Yeah any 135 12mm axle will work. Some companies make their hubs with offset flanges, and or bigger flanges on one side to counteract the dishing in a normal 135mm bike, so I'd avoid them and get a symetrical hub.

 

[Gridds]

Just curious, can it be made w/a 1.5 head tube or is that an issue with steel for some reason (I don't think I have ever seen a steel frame w/a 1.5 HT).

The K9 DH001-S has a steel main frame and a 1.5 head tube.

http://k9industries.com/K9/DH001-S.html

 

[time-bomb]

One of the main reasons of 1.5 coming out is that fat tube ally frames tubes have a better surface to weld to. Not really an issue with thiner diameter cromo tubes. I did ask for a 1.5 so I could run different width adaptors for custom geo, or K9s angle cups, but Katipo rathered use the 1 1/8th, wasn't that big a deal with me.

Interesting, I figured strength or weight as a factor in this. I was thinking the same thing, would be nice to run some adapters but since the frame has custom geo anyway it kind of negates the need for them......although it would still be fun to tinker with

The K9 DH001-S has a steel main frame and a 1.5 head tube.

http://k9industries.com/K9/DH001-S.html

Ha-ha, thanks. I either forgot or over-looked that detail all together as this was a frame I had looked at not too long ago. Thanks for sharing.

 

[w00dy]

Looks really nice, NSM.

 

[Simmo]

Greetings fellow katipo owners! Does anyone know the list of bearing codes needed for the frame?

I'm being lazy and would like to keep my bike in one piece and riding while I source some bearings before the overhaul..

Thanks in advance!