Locking threads. ;)
- Thread starter Kntr
- Start date
Well when I said red, I meant the red bottle in my shop that has green loctite in it.
It's what we call the "death" loctite. Basically when it dries it won't come loose. I used it in my Fox 36 axle cap so when you loosen the axle the cap won't come out, the whole axle will.
It's what we call the "death" loctite. Basically when it dries it won't come loose. I used it in my Fox 36 axle cap so when you loosen the axle the cap won't come out, the whole axle will.
there are a lot of different threadlockers. there are the ones designed for sleeves too but generally i just use BLUE... otherwise known as the removable one (242). red (277) will need heat in order for the bolt to come off.
There a couple of 'greens'.
1 There is a green threadlocker for small assemblies, essentially weaker that blue. So green < blue < red.
2 The green that anyone around here refers to is a cylindrical assembly retainng compound (loctite 609). This is the stuff to use for any press fit bearing or bearing shaft type application (main or linkage sealed bearings on you Fly). It keeps the harder bearing from moving and eventually 'stretching' the hole that it should be tight in.
Oh yea, keep in mind tht the colors vary be mfg. The #s are the best way...all the loctite corp products come in a red bottle.
I gotta give it to you, Kanter...
Clever thread title
Clever thread title
Yeah...you deserve a thumb up for that title...
Never use the stuff.....just a torque wrench....D
I was wondering about lock tite and thought that was a good title.I gotta give it to you, Kanter...
Clever thread title
Made ya look.
This link On loctite's website actualy gives you a break down of all the products on offer. BAsically, the blue/red/purple compounds are the threadlocking compounds of varying strengths. The green stuff is a bearing retainer. Using green on threads is just asking for trouble in my experience, but it rules for, funnily enough, it's intended purpose of holding bearings in place.
Edit: ah, you need to click on "assembly products" to get the right category. All sorts of technical data available on there too, depending on wether or not your application is likely to be under high temperatures, or submersed in solvents etc.
Edit: ah, you need to click on "assembly products" to get the right category. All sorts of technical data available on there too, depending on wether or not your application is likely to be under high temperatures, or submersed in solvents etc.
Using colours as identification for threadlockers is a little vague, whereas the numbers are much more accurate, and are often even shared among different brands (not just loctite).
242 or 243 (medium strength, removable, blue liquid in red bottle) is what you'll use for most bike related thread applications. 243 is oil resistant, but as a habit I clean all threads and bolts with metho before assembling with loctite anyway.
I use 262 (high strength, "permanent", red liquid in red bottle) for the pinchbolts on hollowtech II cranks, just for a little extra safety - after cleaning all the grease off the bolts first. It's not really permanent and undoes reasonably easily with just allen keys, so no dramas there. But it's definitely an application where i'd like them to never loosen on their own.
242 or 243 (medium strength, removable, blue liquid in red bottle) is what you'll use for most bike related thread applications. 243 is oil resistant, but as a habit I clean all threads and bolts with metho before assembling with loctite anyway.
I use 262 (high strength, "permanent", red liquid in red bottle) for the pinchbolts on hollowtech II cranks, just for a little extra safety - after cleaning all the grease off the bolts first. It's not really permanent and undoes reasonably easily with just allen keys, so no dramas there. But it's definitely an application where i'd like them to never loosen on their own.
Blue for pretty much everything I don't want coming loose.
Grease for everything else.
Torque it proper and watch your crap and your good to go.
Grease for everything else.
Torque it proper and watch your crap and your good to go.
I don't believe that there is a place on a bike that should ever receive stronger than blue.
You've never seen a Fox 20mm axle, have you?
I would venture to think that blue would solve the problems. I have not used a Fox 20mm axle, but I know what red loctite holds and I wouldn't put it on a bike. I would just as soon jb weld it in place.
you know whats great for loosening bolts???
regular maintenance.
regular maintenance.
Have to agree with you. That bit got the red stuff the minute I figured out that those two parts could come apart. I still don't get why they didnt at least reverse thread it?
I'd venture a guess that they call it a "weight savings" measure...and probably a "cost increase" measure around the office!
Okay.. I think that line is worthy of signature status.I'd venture a guess that they call it a "weight savings" measure...and probably a "cost increase" measure around the office!
when i read the title i thought it was going to be about threads in a frame or other part that were made a little off of spec on prepose to act like a nyloc nut. i have seen this done before and i personnally think that it is a great idea but it take alot of persicion to manufacture.
If you don't ever need to loosen it, fine, but I wouldn't use red on something that needs to come loose. Particularly on alloy bolts.
Distorted thread lock nuts are not machined that way. They are made just like a standard nut and then bent/dented/crushed to provide the distorted threads. They also prove to be a problem in an application where they are frequently removed and installed. They can wear the bolt threads.
It sucks ass if it ever does come loose - you can't get your axle out if it does. Imagine a bolt where the head of the bolt can un-thread from the bolt itself. That's how the Fox 20mm axles are made.
davep i have actually seen places in which the thread was machined out of pitch as well, not just a dent in the threads. also the only places that i have seen this done is in application in which the nut/screw is rearly removed just like you said. the situations that i have seen ti done though are in high heat area's or area's that have exsecive vibration (vibration in which would break down locking compounds) the last area i have seen it done is in areas in which are often covered in oils or other chemicals. some cool stuff for sure.