Wanted to post up a long term review of this Pinion gearbox. I have been on it for 2 years now of consistent riding with a little summer resort time. One friend and customer has slayed his with like 10 resort days last summer and some this summer.
To give a background of my set up and expectations will help. At this stage in life I am still gravity oriented in my riding which also gives reason to the preference for the high pivot frame. I RIDE UP TO GO DOWN. So my setup is geared for DH abuse. I prefer durability over light weight because I ride 2-3 days each week on average. I was putting 3 days a week in for the first half for testing. Some of the usual trails include jumps from 4.5m to 12m, drop step downs from 1.5m to 3.6m vertical meters. Sections can include some rocky chunk. Highest speed can get up to 64km/h. And things don't always go to perfect in those circumstances. I climb my DH set up 2.4km to 4km up unless I am at a resort. It keeps me in shape and the gearbox is perfect for such a set up because of the range.
Not too long ago the Zerode Taniwha was reviewed by Pinkbike's Mike Levy. It wasn't too positive toward it overall. It seemed to me the rider reviewing the bike really should have set the parts spec up to his preference rather than repeatedly talk about weight issues. The bike was set up more for descending, thus heavier overall.
I am amazed at the whole weight thing in the industry today. People want these super light setups and they expect them to either last long under regular heavy hard use and be cheap. Often times they think they will get both. But that is just not the reality from my experience. Most people would die if they knew how heavy my day to day DH wheelset weighs. Spank Spoons, DH tubes, 2ply DH tires with wire bead (killer blowout deal $12 USD! Oh and they are 26") On the other hand, I have trued the rims once in 3 years of pretty heavy use. Never burped a tire and ruined a ride like friends have with tubeless. Have never pinch flatted and have gone down to the rim plenty of times. Have resort days logged on them. I run 21/23psi, and have gone lower at times with no issues. I have done the lighter wheel thing and it feels good but I always have problems and need to replace rims fairly quick when I do that.
So be discerning when reading other peoples reviews. Their expectations and preferences may not be yours. The way they ride and what they want out of a setup may be different than yours.
I will start off by mentioning the only 2 negatives I feel the box has: The weight and POE of the free hub in it. It adds 2-2.5lbs or 1 kilo to a set up. It does place this in the most optimal place on the bike, low and centered at your feet. So is it worth the additional weight? Also the free hub has a very low POE. I don't notice it 95% of the time, just here and there at certain times and usually not on a descent. Overall, for me it is a fairly minor qualm. These two issues for me and others on them become a moot point once you start to realize the benefits opened up to you.
For me, the answer to go Pinion gearbox is absolutely YES because the number of other benefits gained, far out weigh the weight penalty for the kind of riding I do and the performance I want from a bike setup.
1. Shifting -- the shifts are clearly indexed and crisp. I have yet had to adjust the cable tension at all and probably won't have to for another 2 years at this rate.
It does use a grip shifter of which I was a little skeptical at first, but wouldn't want to go back to a trigger. You can easily dump 2-3-4 gears in half a second. I know there are nay-sayers about this but it is a total nonissue for me and those I know on them. One customer/friend was concerned he would hate it, but once on it doesn't complain about it and has said the ability to switch through a number of gears so quickly comes in handy. This isn't a Walmart special grip shifter. And I have not had a miss shift from pulling up on the bars. I set up my grip so my hand is barely on the grip shift.
Now there have been some confusing statements made by people who have never ridden a Pinion, or have barely spent any time on one. When shifting to a lower gear (easier), you have to let tension off of the cranks in order to shift. After getting used to the technique, it takes a split second to do. So this notion that has gone around like you have to stop and wait to shift is not the case at all. For guys that like to hack shift with their derailleurs (which is terrible and wears out your drive train quickly), I guess you can cry about it. When I was on a derailleur, I eased off tension when upshifting anyways, so it is almost the same technique.
Shifting to a higher gear (harder) you can shift while pedaling except at the 4/5 and 8/9. So on a descent, you can be on the cranks and shift down as you are gaining speed. The two intervals listed have not been an issue for me. Most of the descents you will do your going to be in 9, 10, 11 where you will want to be hard on the gas. If you blow a corner or section and need to gain speed you are usually around 6, 7, 8. Almost all of my shifting now on a descent is done without pedaling anyways except for a few sections on trails where your gassing it.
2. Shifiting without pedaling -- This is one of the best things you can ever have for gravity oriented riding and can't be emphasized enough. 99% of my shifting on a descent is done without pedaling. You can simply set yourself up for each section of the trail without worrying about getting the pedal strokes in. You can also dump gears easily, like if you make a mistake and need to grab 2-3 gears up. Really, really nice when learning new a trail or learning the trails at resorts.
3. Chain security -- I am using 30t narrow wide chain rings. I simply don't drop or skip the chain (unless weeds or a branch gets inbetween the chain and sprocket).
For me this is huge because I would often skip gears on a cassette on certain parts of my normal trails where you needed to shift but it was rough ground. This would in turn screw me up for not being able to hit gap jumps where pedaling into the jump out of corners was necessary. Not anymore, hasn't happened since I converted. I have no need for a guide or chain retention system.
4. VERY LOW maintenance -- I wipe down the chain each ride or two. Lube my chain each ride or two and that is about it. And when you could want to, our frame design it allows you to quickly take the chain off, degrease it and wipe the sprockets down clean. Throw the chain back on and lube it up and it feels like new. Takes around 10 minutes. I have never been able to do that so quickly and easily.
The sprockets and chain are always inline so they are probably going to last me another year at this rate. And 30t sprockets are like $15 USD on Ebay. So when you do have to replace them maybe in 2-3 years (depending on how much climbing you do) it is a minimal cost. Loving it!!
This is literally a set and forget set up. Pinion recomends changing the oil in the box once a year. I haven't even done that yet. SSSHHHH.
5. Range -- With the 600% in the 12 speed box you have enough to climb a DH bike setup, 1st gear is very low. You still have enough top end gearing for any DH run you will do. I have yet to use the 12th gear on a DH run yet. Usually in 9, 10, 11. No 1 x set up can compete with this especially when you consider the ridiculous dinner size plate gearing and huge derailleur necessary and the crazy chain slap on a descent.
6. The gearing ratio or steps between gears feels perfect. The box is very smooth feeling. Silky smooth would be a good adjective. I suppose being Porche engineers they kind of knew what they were doing.
7. Better ground clearance. 30t ring versus a 34t or 36t with a bash guard. You can get even better using Pinion's 24t sprockets.
One other potential negative aspect people may have concerns about is drag -- This was a concern before taking the plunge and I consulted Rob from Zerode and a number of others who had one. They all said the same thing I will: Can't say I feel any noticable drag over a standard setup. Yes, there is probably slightly more, but my legs can't feel it. So it is a nonissue.
(Besides, the gearing range makes up for any drag. 1st gear is so low most people wouldn't even use it normally.)
So one must really analyze for themselves their type of riding they do and have access to and really what they want in a bike set up. Granted I will say that these gearbox really suite gravity oriented riders more then someone who wants to climb a ton, is concerned overly concerned about weight, and isn't too concerned with descending performance. Although if I was a XC guy, I still would want one just because they are such a simple clean setup that doesn't need attention.
To gearbox or not to gearbox? I say GEARBOX!
As for the high pivot frame, they can be set up at 150mm, 165mm, 175mm or 195mm travel. More companies are switching over to them because they simply are nicer to ride in terms of bump absorption and high speed stability. I wouldn't care to get back on a lower pivot design.
peregrineindustry.com
To give a background of my set up and expectations will help. At this stage in life I am still gravity oriented in my riding which also gives reason to the preference for the high pivot frame. I RIDE UP TO GO DOWN. So my setup is geared for DH abuse. I prefer durability over light weight because I ride 2-3 days each week on average. I was putting 3 days a week in for the first half for testing. Some of the usual trails include jumps from 4.5m to 12m, drop step downs from 1.5m to 3.6m vertical meters. Sections can include some rocky chunk. Highest speed can get up to 64km/h. And things don't always go to perfect in those circumstances. I climb my DH set up 2.4km to 4km up unless I am at a resort. It keeps me in shape and the gearbox is perfect for such a set up because of the range.
Not too long ago the Zerode Taniwha was reviewed by Pinkbike's Mike Levy. It wasn't too positive toward it overall. It seemed to me the rider reviewing the bike really should have set the parts spec up to his preference rather than repeatedly talk about weight issues. The bike was set up more for descending, thus heavier overall.
I am amazed at the whole weight thing in the industry today. People want these super light setups and they expect them to either last long under regular heavy hard use and be cheap. Often times they think they will get both. But that is just not the reality from my experience. Most people would die if they knew how heavy my day to day DH wheelset weighs. Spank Spoons, DH tubes, 2ply DH tires with wire bead (killer blowout deal $12 USD! Oh and they are 26") On the other hand, I have trued the rims once in 3 years of pretty heavy use. Never burped a tire and ruined a ride like friends have with tubeless. Have never pinch flatted and have gone down to the rim plenty of times. Have resort days logged on them. I run 21/23psi, and have gone lower at times with no issues. I have done the lighter wheel thing and it feels good but I always have problems and need to replace rims fairly quick when I do that.
So be discerning when reading other peoples reviews. Their expectations and preferences may not be yours. The way they ride and what they want out of a setup may be different than yours.
I will start off by mentioning the only 2 negatives I feel the box has: The weight and POE of the free hub in it. It adds 2-2.5lbs or 1 kilo to a set up. It does place this in the most optimal place on the bike, low and centered at your feet. So is it worth the additional weight? Also the free hub has a very low POE. I don't notice it 95% of the time, just here and there at certain times and usually not on a descent. Overall, for me it is a fairly minor qualm. These two issues for me and others on them become a moot point once you start to realize the benefits opened up to you.
For me, the answer to go Pinion gearbox is absolutely YES because the number of other benefits gained, far out weigh the weight penalty for the kind of riding I do and the performance I want from a bike setup.
1. Shifting -- the shifts are clearly indexed and crisp. I have yet had to adjust the cable tension at all and probably won't have to for another 2 years at this rate.
It does use a grip shifter of which I was a little skeptical at first, but wouldn't want to go back to a trigger. You can easily dump 2-3-4 gears in half a second. I know there are nay-sayers about this but it is a total nonissue for me and those I know on them. One customer/friend was concerned he would hate it, but once on it doesn't complain about it and has said the ability to switch through a number of gears so quickly comes in handy. This isn't a Walmart special grip shifter. And I have not had a miss shift from pulling up on the bars. I set up my grip so my hand is barely on the grip shift.
Now there have been some confusing statements made by people who have never ridden a Pinion, or have barely spent any time on one. When shifting to a lower gear (easier), you have to let tension off of the cranks in order to shift. After getting used to the technique, it takes a split second to do. So this notion that has gone around like you have to stop and wait to shift is not the case at all. For guys that like to hack shift with their derailleurs (which is terrible and wears out your drive train quickly), I guess you can cry about it. When I was on a derailleur, I eased off tension when upshifting anyways, so it is almost the same technique.
Shifting to a higher gear (harder) you can shift while pedaling except at the 4/5 and 8/9. So on a descent, you can be on the cranks and shift down as you are gaining speed. The two intervals listed have not been an issue for me. Most of the descents you will do your going to be in 9, 10, 11 where you will want to be hard on the gas. If you blow a corner or section and need to gain speed you are usually around 6, 7, 8. Almost all of my shifting now on a descent is done without pedaling anyways except for a few sections on trails where your gassing it.
2. Shifiting without pedaling -- This is one of the best things you can ever have for gravity oriented riding and can't be emphasized enough. 99% of my shifting on a descent is done without pedaling. You can simply set yourself up for each section of the trail without worrying about getting the pedal strokes in. You can also dump gears easily, like if you make a mistake and need to grab 2-3 gears up. Really, really nice when learning new a trail or learning the trails at resorts.
3. Chain security -- I am using 30t narrow wide chain rings. I simply don't drop or skip the chain (unless weeds or a branch gets inbetween the chain and sprocket).
For me this is huge because I would often skip gears on a cassette on certain parts of my normal trails where you needed to shift but it was rough ground. This would in turn screw me up for not being able to hit gap jumps where pedaling into the jump out of corners was necessary. Not anymore, hasn't happened since I converted. I have no need for a guide or chain retention system.
4. VERY LOW maintenance -- I wipe down the chain each ride or two. Lube my chain each ride or two and that is about it. And when you could want to, our frame design it allows you to quickly take the chain off, degrease it and wipe the sprockets down clean. Throw the chain back on and lube it up and it feels like new. Takes around 10 minutes. I have never been able to do that so quickly and easily.
The sprockets and chain are always inline so they are probably going to last me another year at this rate. And 30t sprockets are like $15 USD on Ebay. So when you do have to replace them maybe in 2-3 years (depending on how much climbing you do) it is a minimal cost. Loving it!!
This is literally a set and forget set up. Pinion recomends changing the oil in the box once a year. I haven't even done that yet. SSSHHHH.
5. Range -- With the 600% in the 12 speed box you have enough to climb a DH bike setup, 1st gear is very low. You still have enough top end gearing for any DH run you will do. I have yet to use the 12th gear on a DH run yet. Usually in 9, 10, 11. No 1 x set up can compete with this especially when you consider the ridiculous dinner size plate gearing and huge derailleur necessary and the crazy chain slap on a descent.
6. The gearing ratio or steps between gears feels perfect. The box is very smooth feeling. Silky smooth would be a good adjective. I suppose being Porche engineers they kind of knew what they were doing.
7. Better ground clearance. 30t ring versus a 34t or 36t with a bash guard. You can get even better using Pinion's 24t sprockets.
One other potential negative aspect people may have concerns about is drag -- This was a concern before taking the plunge and I consulted Rob from Zerode and a number of others who had one. They all said the same thing I will: Can't say I feel any noticable drag over a standard setup. Yes, there is probably slightly more, but my legs can't feel it. So it is a nonissue.
(Besides, the gearing range makes up for any drag. 1st gear is so low most people wouldn't even use it normally.)
So one must really analyze for themselves their type of riding they do and have access to and really what they want in a bike set up. Granted I will say that these gearbox really suite gravity oriented riders more then someone who wants to climb a ton, is concerned overly concerned about weight, and isn't too concerned with descending performance. Although if I was a XC guy, I still would want one just because they are such a simple clean setup that doesn't need attention.
To gearbox or not to gearbox? I say GEARBOX!
As for the high pivot frame, they can be set up at 150mm, 165mm, 175mm or 195mm travel. More companies are switching over to them because they simply are nicer to ride in terms of bump absorption and high speed stability. I wouldn't care to get back on a lower pivot design.
peregrineindustry.com
