[fluider]

Hi guys, I know it's not very DH related and it maybe a lama question, but anyway...
I wonder if anyone of you ever measured dimensions of both pairs of bushings for RS Lyrik? Or if you managed to find out a standard number of those bushings, if they are standard bushings.
I have a 09 Lyrik, converted from SoloAir to Coil Uturn, been riding it for almost 12 months but the play between lowers and uppers appeared quite quickly, after 1st month of riding and now it really annoys me. The bike-park weekends are coming and I want to enjoy riding more without listening to that knocking sound. I don't want to exchange that fork since I upped the travel & removed floodgate and plan on trying different damper oils. I really like it except for that ****y bushings.
So, I'm very interested in buying new bushings cheaper than SRAM sells them (75eur in EU). Or if you had any other ideas .... ?
Thanks for any help.
Pavol

 

[captainspauldin]

Try to get ahold of SRAM see if they can warranty your lowers

 

[rockofullr]

I think you are screwed. You probably wont find them anywhere other than SRAM (or QBP/BTI)

If there is a shop near you that does lots of SRAM service that would be you're only hope.

 

[fluider]

Well, all shops I asked in my area don't service RS forks with upper legs over 32mm since it requires different tools. They just send it to distributor who does not have the best reputation, they don't even have working web site.
That's why I'm trying to do it all by myself.

There's one think I could try. The upper bushing have very tight gap along so that it can change its ID by placing it at different position within the conical shape in lowers. My idea is to pull the upper bushing out and widen that gap by cutting 1-2mm of material. What do you think?

 

[rockofullr]

Ummm...

When it comes to bushings I don't bother working on them unless I'm going to do it right. The tolerances are so tight that even a minor scratch on the bushing will affect your fork's performance. If I were you I would buy a new set of bushings and the bushing removal/install tools then get to work. Only problem is that all that crap will probably cost hundreds of dollars.

As for your idea I don't think I am following you. Are you proposing setting the upper bushing further into the leg to tighten the fit?

I can't think of a reason that wouldn't work but it sounds kinda sketchy to me.

 

[fluider]

As for your idea I don't think I am following you. Are you proposing setting the upper bushing further into the leg to tighten the fit?

Exactly, that's my idea.

 

[rockofullr]

Good luck.

It might work. This paragraph from the service manual might help you get the right fit.

Remove lower leg from tool and inspect the fit of
the lower bushing by sliding one upper tube into
the lower leg. Hold lower leg 90° horizontally
and release. Lower leg should swing 45° down
and stop (not pictured).
note: if lower leg swings too freely, repeat step 15.
if lower leg feels tight or does not move at all, slide
lower leg back onto bushing installation post and
rock side to side to loosen fit.

 

[Udi]

I haven't seen many people replace rockshox bushings successfully by themselves, in fact any lower warranty case I've seen has involved a brand new set of lowers being installed. If the bushings are tight then you can size them, but if they are loose and have been since new, I'd suspect a manufacturing defect - in either the lowers or bushings. If it's the lowers, then new bushings won't help.

If you MUST install new bushings, then I'd strongly recommend buying the genuine parts, and doing it properly with the right tools. I don't think knocking the existing bushing further down is going to do much for you, also keep in mind that any flaring of the bushing will result in your stanchions getting scraped and damaged.

Something I'd suggest trying first though is a thicker oil, and as ridiculous as it sounds, I've noticed that the teflon coating on RS bushings actually has a tendency to swell a tiny bit when certain oils are used. Silkolene Pro RSF is one of these, and I'd recommend running a healthy amount of this particular oil (at least 5ml more than what RS suggest) for a month. I'd use 10wt, or 5wt if you want to use it as a damper oil as well (it's a great damper oil). It's a long shot but will cost you $20 to try and won't destroy your fork like messing with the bushings might.

 

[fluider]

Thanks for advice about the Silkolene oil, Udi, I think I'll try to go this way first.
New lowers may cost around 180eur which I'm not willing to pay for 2-years old fork that after next 2 years will be sellable for less than 200eur.

 

[fluider]

Udi, and what about a Silkolene PRO SFR 5wt into lowers, and 2.5wt into damper?

I'd like to try lighter oil in my MissionControl damper as I find the standard 5wt oil is damping the smaller bumps bit more ...

 

[iRider]

...I don't think knocking the existing bushing further down is going to do much for you, ...

I was told by a SRAM mechanic that this is exactly what they do if they want to remedy a too loose factory installed bushing.

 

[Udi]

I was told by a SRAM mechanic that this is exactly what they do if they want to remedy a too loose factory installed bushing.

Sounds dodgy to me, that would change the length of the fork's bushing overlap. Anyway if fluider wants to do that then I think it would be wise to use the proper tool at least, to avoid damaging/flaring the bushing.

Udi, and what about a Silkolene PRO SFR 5wt into lowers, and 2.5wt into damper?

I'd like to try lighter oil in my MissionControl damper as I find the standard 5wt oil is damping the smaller bumps bit more ...

If you're buying two bottles, I'd go all the way and run 15wt in the lowers.

2.5 is probably fine in the damper if you want it quite soft.

 

[fluider]

Sounds dodgy to me, that would change the length of the fork's bushing overlap.

That seems to be a purpose of uppers' conical internal shape for upper bushing with dilatation gap. In case of my Lyrik, however, the dilatation gap is fully closed meaning bushing cannot be pushed any further without damage. And in this state there's a significant play between upper bushings and upper legs.

 

[HardtailHack]

I replaced the bushes in my Kowa fork but I'm still yet to try them, on the bench they are a bit sticky.
I wouldn't try and fit new bushes yourself as if they don't go in perfectly straight you may only get the stanchions touching on the leading/trailing edges of the bushes.

I did my Kowas at home because it was impossible to make the fork worse than it was when new.

If you do decide to replace them I can put pics up of my ghetto bush puller, as to installing you're on your own.

 

[iRider]

Sounds dodgy to me, that would change the length of the fork's bushing overlap. Anyway if fluider wants to do that then I think it would be wise to use the proper tool at least, to avoid damaging/flaring the bushing.

He said you only need to move the bushing by about 1 mm. Not much change there.
Agree about the tool.

 

[miuan]

Pavol, have you tried Suspension clinic? Did they refuse to work on the fork?

 

[fluider]

I'm in contact with them, they seem to be the way to go. Just trying to figure out the cheapest solution because as I said earlier, I'm not willing to pay ~150eur for service of fork I bought for 350eur. Moreover when it's an issue of manufacturing quality.