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Marzocchi 888R questions with pics

Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by kuksul08, Feb 11, 2008.

  1. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Hey guys, I noticed the spring in my fork making rattling noises, and also it really takes a lot to bottom it out (stiff feeling). It will get within 1/8" if I mess up a jump and hit the landing wrong but thats it.

    Whenever I change the compression knob it doesn't seem to affect anything at all.

    So yea, the preload ring is on the top spot, and there's this plastic spacer on the left leg.. look normal? What does the black spacer do? How do I know what weight spring I have? thanks



     

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  2. Zark

    Zark Hey little girl, do you want some candy?

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    sounds like you could use lighter springs or less oil

    888's do not like to be run in the lowest preload position. I'd put it in the middle just to get rid of the rattle.

    You'll have to remove your springs to check oil height, so you might as well change the oil while you are at it.

    The compression adjustment is a high speed adjustment that you can only notice at bottom out. Since these forks are so naturally progressive I've always run them close to all the way backed out (3 clicks in).
     
  3. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    ahh thanks. Next chance I'll change the oil
     
  4. jefedelosjefes

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    Springs
    Green = stiff
    Yellow = medium
    red = light
     
  5. davep

    davep Turbo Monkey

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    What do you weigh? How much oil is in them. Too much/high oil level can prevent full travel as well as too stiff of springs.

    The rattle was covered above. If you have the compression turned up, that can (as mentioned above) also add to the inability to use all the travel. The compression adjuster only works in the last inch or so, but it can kick in pretty hard if you have it closed (and you wont notice it at any other time).

    I would back the compression all the way off (if you want to prevent the 888 wallow, you need to do other things) and change the oil out and err to the low side of the range when you re-fill the oil (some will not drain out)..then go ride it and see how it feels.

    edit: at 160, you could certainly run at least one soft spring to get a bit more sag and travel use.
     
  6. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    My springs are...metal color lol :shocked:

    edit: hey you are in SLO as well. cal poly student?
     
  7. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    I dont know how much oil is in them, but I'm assuming it is whatever the factory put in because the previous owner didnt change a thing.

    I have had the compression at 3 clicks in from full negative. Anyone know what the spacer is/does?


    Kinda off topic...my friend suggested using very little rebound damping for DH to keep the bike more active, but it seems more stable with more damping. Input? Should it have more damping for dirt jumps?

    Sorry haha, lots of questions... :imstupid:
     
  8. davep

    davep Turbo Monkey

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    The spacer is there because the two cartrages are different length. The spacer makes up the difference in length.

    In general, rebound should be run fairly fast. This allows the wheel to fall back into depressions in the ground (rebound) to keep traction. The faster you ride and the faster the average bumps in your terrain, the faster you would want your fork. ie: high speed chatter/breaking bumps require fast rebound...smooth but undulating terrain woudl not require such fast rebound as there is more time in between each 'bump' for the fork (or shock) to extend.

    The spring would have paint in only a very small vertical stripe down one side of the spring for a few coils (think fingernail polish brush sized stripe). You might need to push the fork all the way down and look closely to see.

    If they were not changed,by the orig owner, they are medium. IIRC these work fairly good for 170 - 185 lb rider. The lighter ones (or maybe just one light one) would not be a bad idea with your weight.

    Lastly, marz are WELL known for shipping out forks with wacko oil levels. IIRC the range for that fork is +- 10 ml (depending on weight and agressiveness). So if someone put an extra table spoon or so of oil in it, it could be verry difficult for you (on the light end) to get full travel.
     
  9. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    According to Marzocchi 210cc per leg is the exact amount for my weight. I guess I will try to remove all the old oil, wipe it clean and replace it with some new 7.5wt
     
  10. davep

    davep Turbo Monkey

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    Right on. I think you will find the rebound side oil is extremely filthy and the fork will generally feel better with fresh oil. Marz uses "golden spectro cartrage fork oil 125/150".

    I would also use about 5 ml less oil as unless you completely disassemble the fork (remove the bleed needles) and flush and drain the cartrages over night, you will never get all the oil out....if the damping is inconsistant or you are bottoming too easy, add the additional 5ml.
     
  11. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Thanks dude. I plan on really draining it out and wiping the surfaces but I will still probably put a little less in there, then turn up the compression if need be.

    From the looks of it, the current oil in there is pretty thick and some of it looks like it started coagulating (?) into grease...
     
  12. DirtyMike

    DirtyMike Turbo Fluffer

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    Excellent point alot of people forget about, which is why I usually check My oil Height after a rebuild
     
  13. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    A couple more questions here, I'd rather not start a new thread if I don't have to.


    The two screws holding the adjusters on top. I noticed one of the adjusters wiggling, and the screw came out really easily. Should I loctite these?

    Also what is the right amount of clickiness is correct (side adjuster). Is this just a preference thing?
     
  14. davep

    davep Turbo Monkey

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    You refering to the little allen heads that hold the knobs on? They are very little so I would not torque too hard on them. You could use a little loc-tite on them if you want, just be careful you dont so much that it gets all over and/or makes the little screw un-removable.


    The allen on the side of the top cap pushes on a little spring that pushes on a bearing that causes the 'click'. If you loosen it too much, you will lose the click and the adjuster will free-turn. Tighten it too much and the adjuster will no longer turn. It is not something that I have ever needed to adjust on the non-ata forks.....put where every you like.
     
  15. kuksul08

    kuksul08 Monkey

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    Awesome, thanks. I just put a very tiny amount of blue loctite at the end of the threads and snugged them up :)