[WestCoastHucker]

i have an older Z1-CR without an ETA and have droped it down to 4" for my hardtail. but now i want to go down to 3" and was wondering how to go about it. the fork has seen better days and i don't want to spend the coin on a new spring kit.

can i just clip the 30mm off the 110mm springs to make them 80mm and then add a spacer to the rebound assembly to make up for the difference?

 

[zedro]

the problem with clipping springs is it effectively raises the spring rate, so it may end up being too stiff. Then theres the hot-rodders method of torching the springs under load so they lower which doesnt change the rate. The right spring rate probably lies somewhere in between.

But since you dont want to flip a dime on it, it doesnt leave you with very many options now does it.

 

[DßR]

Yes, you can do it that way, but I'd personally just buy a set of 80mm springs for a Z.2 BAM or something. I don't know how clipping the ends off will react with seating on the cartridge/top cap or whatever, if the sharp end will want to dig into stuff.

The theory is sound though.

Hell, if you want, you can just add 1" of spacers to the negative spring stack, and leave the main springs untouched - you'll have to really shove the top caps on there and it'll be preloaded like a mofo, but it'd be great for jumping and street that way....

 

[Toshi]

do all this in reverse:

http://tjclark.ath.cx/images/biking/bikes and parts/oil, oil everywhere - april 17, 2004/

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by zedro
the problem with clipping springs is it effectively raises the spring rate, so it may end up being too stiff..........................

raising the spring rate would be ideal in this situation (for me) i am looking to stiffen it up as well. hell, i wouldn't mind even reducing it to about 2", just something to take out the jar of a rough landing. the problem is than i have been riding my BMX almost exclusively for the last few months and now i realize that i just don't need/want the extra travel while riding DJ and street.

what do you think about the issue that DBR brings up about seating with the clipped end of the spring? i would use that end at the top under the caps.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by Toshi
do all this in reverse:

http://tjclark.ath.cx/images/biking/bikes and parts/oil, oil everywhere - april 17, 2004/

i looked at this but i don't see anything that deals with the negative spring...

 

[zedro]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
i looked at this but i don't see anything that deals with the negative spring...

hmm thats another thing, dont think you have access to the negative spring (i know the newer carts you dont, because there is none, but i thought the older style carts could...).

no access to negative springs, no height change for you...

 

[Toshi]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
i looked at this but i don't see anything that deals with the negative spring...

there are negative springs in those pics... 4 of them, i think . when running at 80mm i ran 3 normal negative springs (from 130mm z1 type forks) and one short negative spring (from a racerboi 65mm fork, i believe), all in one leg. the red springs in the pics are the 80mm marzocchi springs that i coughed up the moolah for.

update: ok, looking at the pics, it's hard to see the negative springs, since they're in one of those plastic cups lying about.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by zedro
hmm thats another thing, dont think you have access to the negative spring (i know the newer carts you dont, because there is none, but i thought the older style carts could...).

no access to negative springs, no height change for you...

it is a 2000 Z1, i have access to the negative springs because i have changed this fork from 4" to 5" and back several times. now just looking to make it shorter....

 

[zedro]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
it is a 2000 Z1, i have access to the negative springs because i have changed this fork from 4" to 5" and back several times. now just looking to make it shorter....

ok, thats what i thought...or heard at least. Never opened a pre-2001 cartridge fork.

 

[CraigH]

If you already have it down to 4" and want 3", what about just adding a little more oil so that it will be more progressive towards the end, then start to hydraulic lock?

 

[zedro]

Originally posted by CraigH
If you already have it down to 4" and want 3", what about just adding a little more oil so that it will be more progressive towards the end, then start to hydraulic lock?

he wants to lower the fork as well.

 

[CraigH]

I didn't read that, I just thought he wanted less travel.

If he wants less travel and a shorter forkt, adding more oil won't work.

Look for a trade? There has to be someone out there with a 3" Marz. fork who wants a 4-5" Z1.

 

[Brian Peterson]

It is easy with that fork....

Like it was mentioned, you can add another set of top outs (PN 5141123) and an 80mm x-heavy spring (850660/c) and you will be good to go.

Brian

 

[zedro]

Originally posted by Brian Peterson
It is easy with that fork....

Like it was mentioned, you can add another set of top outs (PN 5141123) and an 80mm x-heavy spring (850660/c) and you will be good to go.

Brian

yeah he knows, but he's being a stubborn cheapo and doesnt want to shill out for new springs...

 

[Brian Peterson]

He might be able to get away with the top out springs.... But he may run into coil bind issues... $50.00 will get him the parts I listed....

Brian