hey, i am going to buy a 2.5 maxxis minion f, and i was wondering what is the diffrence between the 40a, 60a, and tacky versions?? i dont know much about tires, so anything will be helpful.
maxxis minion tire question
- Thread starter dirt-dart
- Start date
60a - hard compound, lasts a long time
40a - very soft compound, typically lasts about a weekend or two of racing depending on how you go through tires
42a - soft compound - supposed to last longer than 40a but generally are prone to having the knobs ripped off after they are used for a bit
40a - very soft compound, typically lasts about a weekend or two of racing depending on how you go through tires
42a - soft compound - supposed to last longer than 40a but generally are prone to having the knobs ripped off after they are used for a bit
sounds like that sums it up then, i am ordering them right now and i need a tire that will last the longest, since i am always broke, so i quess i'll get the 60s. thanks!:biggrin:
Yeah....just go for the 60s....they are awesome !
or get them from over here in Europe and get the 50a version...and get the best of both worlds...
50a rules for training and just riding around and it holds considerably long...60 is just a bit too hard imo.
dude. send me a couple pairs
yeh really man. 50a would be killer for weekend rides, and all of your training purposes. then you could get your 42a for your race weekends. i likey.
what about the new tripple compound ones? I had the 50a on my bighit and it did not last as long as the slow reezays
Edit:
60a- new, plastic compound made from recycled lego
42a- good all round racer boy comp
40a- leaves rubber all the way down the trail, but hooks up like hell
And the one you missed:
3C- Combination tire: 70a (old lego block) base layer, 42a crown (top of tire), 40a shoulder
I use 42a in front and 50a or 42a in rear.
Usually Minion R for front and rear.
Usually Minion R for front and rear.
Minion DHR? Really? Wow!
wow, thats suprising, the R isnt too bad id never consider using as a front tyre
on the compound side of things ive been riding the 40a for a quite a while now and am suprised how long they last. Both of my tyres are in quite good condition considering how long they have been ridden and that they are prone to quick wear. I do try to limit any on road use though
if you don't skid they hold up pretty well esp. on the front
Great tires, had a brand new set up in Mammoth which killed the rear very quickly. They were great in the loose stuff up there for the most part. But some of the runs there i.e Kamakazi just begin to rip treads off. But other then that they have been great, im talk about the super tacky.
My thoughts too. One of the worst straight-line braking tires. Plus, the knobs are too floaty for the front. Actually, not good in the back either except when absolutely new.
haha i saw something were dan atherton was running minion dhr's front and rear haha, weird
That's really not true, I usually get 4-6 months of riding 2-3 days a week out of them.
They can get torn up on the rear especially if you lock up a lot, but the front ones last for ages - and if you develop a better braking technique the rear ones go a while too.
They do have noticeably better traction than the 60a's IMO, but i'd love to run a 50a on the rear... pity we don't get them here and once you include postage it'd prolly be better to just get 2x 40a's.
What?
It breaks almost as a Mobster but is not as slow. DHF is fast tire, doesn't break a s*it, and turns well. I Think is a great mix between the best of a DHF and a Mobster.
see this page:
http://www.maxxis.com/products/bicycle/technology.asp
Personally, I prefer 42a for racing. I feel that it hooks up better in the east coast slop than 40a. 40a last longer than 42a since the knobs chunk less with 40a.
http://www.maxxis.com/products/bicycle/technology.asp
Personally, I prefer 42a for racing. I feel that it hooks up better in the east coast slop than 40a. 40a last longer than 42a since the knobs chunk less with 40a.
Well that's understandable. Both those tires aren't stellar at braking either (straight, stand up braking). They all would be if they have a good square-edged knob going down the middle, similar to a Comp24.
That said, when they're new they perform fine, but its when the knobs start to wear is when their performance goes down the ****ter.
Since you are buying Maxxis and you say your knowledge with tires is limited, I think I should give you a heads up on tire size. When you buy Maxxis tires be prepared to get one size smaller then what you are expecting. their tire sizing is off... way off! Since you are getting 2.5's, what you are really getting will be the 2.3's. But if you want true 2.5 tires then order the 2.7's
I think the Slow Reezaay or 40 last longer too. The Super Tacky or 42 lose side knobs like crazy.
The DHF is a great braking tire in all conditions. I love the DHF on the front and rear. I think Ive tried almost every tire out there and these work the best for my type of riding.
The DHF is a great braking tire in all conditions. I love the DHF on the front and rear. I think Ive tried almost every tire out there and these work the best for my type of riding.
makes no difference they all have 2ply except the 2.3 ones (i think)
Tire size makes a huge difference. Personally, the 2.7 is too big. The Maxxis 2.5 is a great sized tire. Not rediculously heavy but it still has a very puncture resistant side wall. If you want something even lighter, they make the 2.35 in both 2 ply and single ply.
The 60a is still better than most companies "sticky" rubber. They do slide a bit on hardpack, but they last forever. Great whistler rear tire and cheap to boot. If you're going to be racing, go for the ST.
Go for the DHF or the mobster. The mobster can be found VERY cheap right now. This is still a great all around tire and much better than the DHR. I'm not sure why they still make the DHR. Everyone I trust only runs the DHF f and r.
BYO i can tell you there is a reason for the DHR f+r use down here. tire selection is of course very terrain dependant and it happens most riding down here during the summer is on very slippery, bone dry either loamy or sandy soil.
ive been to the other side of the andes and the argentinians run that combo a lot too, whereas my racer friends never even bother to pack mobsters or much dhr's when going racing in europe or north america.
bottom line is dhr works great when you want an aggressive (slow) tire to float and be able to brake, esp on offcamber sections (we have a lot of that) , the profile is a bit rounder than the mobster so it complements it well.