[samtaleterapi]

According to Fox, removing the knobs that are too tall also involves removing the low speed compression adjuster - which means that I can only get the firmest low speed compression setting
I can do without the lockout feature, but I would not neccesarily like the firmest possible low speed compression

I have asked BLKMRKT about the Chris King baseplate/crown race options and will tell you what they say

It seems grinding may be the only option

 

[demo 9]

According to Fox, removing the knobs that are too tall also involves removing the low speed compression adjuster - which means that I can only get the firmest low speed compression setting
I can do without the lockout feature, but I would not neccesarily like the firmest possible low speed compression

I have asked BLKMRKT about the Chris King baseplate/crown race options and will tell you what they say

It seems grinding may be the only option

set the LSC and than remove it? dont set it to firmest?

 

[samtaleterapi]

the Fox guy said that removing the knobs means no adjustment from the firmest setting (which I understand to mean that the LPC adjuster has to be in place to enforce the adjustment on a permanent basis)

Or is it the softest setting? This is what he said:
"Removing the low speed adjuster will result in the fork operating as if the adjuster was turned fully counter-clockwise."

 

[demo 9]

the Fox guy said that removing the knobs means no adjustment from the firmest setting (which I understand to mean that the LPC adjuster has to be in place to enforce the adjustment on a permanent basis)

He would know more than me, but often times, the knobs just bolt on to the top of (whatever) adjustment. The Roco WC shock has a rebound knob that must come off to put the spring on, if you hold the knob while u unbolt it (allen key) it will stay where you left it, i cant speak for fox, but what i just said is pretty common

 

[Tetreault]

I can do without the lockout feature, but I would not neccesarily like the firmest possible low speed compression

It seems grinding may be the only option

I was in the same boat, if your situation is anything like i've had over the years, you are hitting it by serious a few milometers. I just took of the knob, filled down the top of the lockout knob flush down about 3mm and then with a round handfile took our some of the middle of the compression knob, place them back on the fork without bolting it back one, spin to make sure it clears, if it dont, file some more.

 

[kidwoo]

I haven't had an 831 but I highly doubt you need to set any adjustment to its extreme before removing knobs. Just look at it and figure it out. It certainly wouldn't be the first time an in house employee doesn't know dick about their own product.

But it's certainly worth trying before grinding anything.

 

[IH8Rice]

grind first, ask questions later

 

[demo 9]

grind first, ask questions later

this5

 

[samtaleterapi]

In case anybody is interested:

"The lockout and threshold adjustments will remain the same once the adjusters are removed, but the low speed compression adjustment will default itself to the softest setting without the adjuster installed. You do not need to turn it to the softest setting before removing it, the mechanism that engages the adjustment will default to its softest setting, but externally nothing will happen that you need to be mindful of"

 

[samtaleterapi]

does the low speed compression setting affect the ride when the fork is "locked out"?

i have fiddled with my fork, and now i know im not qualified to do that

i unscrewed the caps on the right hand side, and upon reassembly i realized that two of the three tiny balls that hold the LPS ring and lockout handle in place (by grabbing a groove) arent there (the three tiny hex screws are there, but two of them dont move tiny balls into the groove)

this means that i cant get the LPS ring to actually set LPS, because it isnt held i place, but that wouldnt be a problem if it doesnt work anyway when the fork is locked off

so: does LPS work when the the fork is locked off?
and: is it safe to ride the fork locked off with the caps refitted too loosely until i get a mechanic to replace the tiny balls and refit it proporly?
(i can lock it off proporly without the caps)
thanks
rasmus

ps maybe the tiny balls werent there before i unscrewed the caps and that was the reason the lockout handle was very loose and too easily moved to the area where it didnt lock out the fork -
my whole idea was to tighten the three hex screws a bit more to remedy this (but i unscrewed the whole thing to clean it first)

i also might mention that i have grinded the knobs down to solve the original problem to my satisfaction