[loselvisos]

Hi,
I've got a question to Cesar - I've bought summum pro frame and put on it my actual components from present bike. My problem is that I can't set rear derailleur to work as it works in previous bike. Mayby my problem is that I have an old crankset with isis standard - I'ts RPM eltoro and truvative gigapipe tema dh bottom bracket for 68/73 mm bb. If it matters derailleur is x-7 and cassette with chain pc971.
So do I have to swap cranks and put some with external bearning? The problem with calibration the deraulleur is on the nineth gear ( the smaller one ).

 

[miuan]

I'm afraid your mech mount bolt needs moar shimz... just get your derailleur farther from the mech hanger so you push the range more to higher gears. I had the same problem with my Izimu and it was easily solved. Hope this helps you.

 

[Henkka.k]

What is the exact shock mount width and bolt size in Summum frame? 22.4mm and 10mm?

 

[SkullCrack]

Cool article on BikeRadar on Barel's Summum:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/pro-bike-fabien-barels-mondraker-summum-pro-team-29423

 

[Henkka.k]

Has anybody managed to replace cables inside chainstay? How did you do it? The original cables are stuck inside chainstay. It is so hard to get them off I am a bit worried how I ever manage to set new cables back.

 

[Deano]

http://www.keironscott.com/publicdl/Bikes/guia cables summum.ppsx

have a look at this, it explains how to route the cables pretty easy and correct.

its a powerpoint pres download.

 

[asphyxiation]

Hello,

had anyone ever had the problem that the shock-mounting parts cut into the frame linkages/rockers? I dismounted my RC4 and just wondered whether this should be normal:

On the lower linkage it was even worse. The shockmountingbolts cut an edge into the link so that unscrewing the shock-bolt was very noisy and hard to get it out. Had to use a plier. So the shockbolt is at the moment not fitable without force. Looks like this:

And from the inner side

Had anyone this problem yet?

First reaction of the mondraker-contact on their page was just: "clean it and use grease"...?!?

 

[asphyxiation]

No one?

 

[staike]

Looks like you didn't tight it up good enough in the first place, which allowed it to rotate at that point, not the DU bushing. Clean it and use grease.

 

[asphyxiation]

The shock was only dismounted once to fit in the spring and the bolts had the right clamping torque all the time I think.
The only option to prevent the rotation is in my opinion to wear/size the DU bushing which leads to faster abrasion.

 

[funkyflea]

How is the bushing and axle assembled? Anyone care to supply some pics? I'm thinking of getting a Summum but now Im questioning the design. Can you buy standard replacement bushing hardware to replace worn axle/bushings? Like the ones TF tune and others sell. Like this Mount Kits, 12.7mm - for Fox, 5th ... - TF Tuned Shox

 

[Deano]

tf tuned make mount kits for them, but you have to email them the specs, its 22.2 mm wide for 10 MM bolt.

not a standard size for them

As for that kind of wear, i dont think its normal, im on my second summum frame now, and havent had that issue. reason for it being the second, is simply i sold the first to a friend, and decided to get a new one

 

[asphyxiation]

You could also use normal 22,2mm mount kits and drill them to 10mm inner diameter. Shouldn't be too complicated.
I will do this tomorrow because I have a pair of 22.2mm left from my Supreme and so I could easy switch shocks without changing the mountinghardware.

 

[Raingauge]

You could also use normal 22,2mm mount kits and drill them to 10mm inner diameter. Shouldn't be too complicated.
I will do this tomorrow because I have a pair of 22.2mm left from my Supreme and so I could easy switch shocks without changing the mountinghardware.

Buy a 10mm reamer if you're going to do this; drill it undersize and then ream it. It will reduce the slop you might have between the bolt and bushing.

 

[Motey]

Hello,

had anyone ever had the problem that the shock-mounting parts cut into the frame linkages/rockers? I dismounted my RC4 and just wondered whether this should be normal:

On the lower linkage it was even worse. The shockmountingbolts cut an edge into the link so that unscrewing the shock-bolt was very noisy and hard to get it out. Had to use a plier. So the shockbolt is at the moment not fitable without force. Looks like this:

And from the inner side

Had anyone this problem yet?

First reaction of the mondraker-contact on their page was just: "clean it and use grease"...?!?

Hey buddy, I have the same problem! Did you ever get yours sorted? If so what did you do? Cheers

 

[GoodbyePorkPie]

Riding a Summun Pro Team! Large and Ive come off a SC Carbon V10c L, Ive had quite a few of the best DH bikes, IH Sun, Turners DHRs and ridden lots of bikes.

This thing is a beast, but its also super sic fun, all I got is holy****balls this thing smashes DH trails, and kills jump trails and corners for breakfast.

No where is the V10c competitive to this bike for me, not in any department, this thing out accelerates it, hands down out corners it fast slow, drifty off camber, stability, jumping no contest, confidence no contest, I let some other top ranked riders test it out no changes to my settings and they came back stoked saying they were ruined and wanted one!

And they were riding some pretty impressive machinery of they're own.

Currently Im running the Zero stem and love it, will try the FG20/30 as Bulldog said to me he eventually preferred that setup, but I watched him at a National DH a few years back on Team MS and could not believe how he punished the smallest lines in corners at speed, now I know how.

Im stoked and re invigorated on Dh.

Couple of other observations.
Fox 40air wow, Ive torn Fox a new one recently over digi shock pumps and CTD shocks and forks and still stand by that, but this 40 kills any coil DH fork Ive owned or ridden, amazing, hope that continues as it breaks in more.

The std Rc4 does its job, but I think the rear quality is due to the Zero Loss suspension kinematic, its simply amazing.
Having ridden VPP and DW bikes for the last few years, this floating link has been an eye opener, I have a Dune XR as well and OMG. DW kicked to the curb, but the Float X will also,be going for a Monarch Ive ridden both back to back and its way superior.

For the Summun I think I will look at a BOS air shock to match the 40, instead of a Ti spring which was my first thought, Ive always been a coil guy on DH bikes, but this has blown me away, both the Summun and the 40.

Id also add the Pro and the base model apart from the Forumla brakes on all of them which is the only real weakness in kit, are also awesome, got to ride with all 3 models and could easily have settled on anyone of them apart from brakes.

I love the look of the ROs but likely Switch out to Saints and Saint cranks at some stage, purely personal not performance re cranks, brakes I prefer the newest Saints which will go on both bikes.

So looking fwd to the next DH race now, oh this bike has also made me re think 27.5" is needed or more importantly not needed for me in DH, where as the V10c I was feeling it might make a difference for me, the GEO kit is also incredible peace of kit to fine tune the bike to a track or ride style, not played with it yet though loving the stock setup short CS setting 63deg HA so much hard to try it.

Summun, you had me at Hello!

 

[Chris2fur@RWC]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but there are some shock hardware questions here that I think we have a pretty good answer to, especially for the 2010-2012 Summum frames with 10mm hardware. Here's graphic that shows existing hardware and our replacement needle bearing kits:

The kit can be found here: http://enduroforkseals.com/id478.html