Mountain biker looking for a road bike

LordOpie · Jul 13, 2005

bluebug32 said:
I know weight is a huge issue.

umm, where did you hear or learn that?

There is no decent production bike on the market today that is too heavy. Period. Weight is a billion times more important if you're carrying the bike up stairs to your apartment or putting it on a roof than it will ever be while riding the road. My girlfriend makes me do both with her bike, put it on the roof and carry it when necessary

Order of importance:
-- Frame/fit
-- comfort in three contact points: pedals, saddles, handlebars. Most people don't mention them cuz if the frame is right for you and bike is set up properly, you shouldn't have too much weight on the bars. And pedals and saddles are cheap enough to replace.
-- decent wheels: but just ride the ones that come with your bike before spending money on new wheels.
-- tires are cheap, but make a huge difference in comfort. If you're riding on 20s or 23s and it's not comfortable, you can always move up to 25s or 28s without much loss in performance, but potentially huge gains in comfort.
-- Component group: Despite what those who know more than me say, I still say buy whatever is in your price range. If two bikes cost the same, but one has a better frame and the other has better components, put your money on the better frame bike.

Ask more questions during your search

LordOpie · Jul 13, 2005

I recommend getting measured by a pro who will take the time to understand what kind of riding you want, who knows how to measure properly and can tell you what size you need in the various measurements and geometry.

Then you can buy a used bike and know it'll be close or just wrong.

I'm not a fan of brand recommendation as there are so very many good bikes on the market. And not one is that much better than another in any particular price point.

PS: Buy a steel bike

Crazy Sweeper · Jul 13, 2005

thanks dude, this info has helped me a lot as well. why steel?

LordOpie · Jul 13, 2005

Steel is just a good overall material that's not too expensive. It's a bit heavier, but it does a great job absorbing road noise. My cheap steel bike is a lot better than many more expensive AL bikes... even with carbon bits.

Another thing is critical failures. As I understand it, a damaged Aluminum or Carbon frame is dangerous. While steel would yield the damage and noticeably fail over time, AL and CF have a much higher chance of going from slight damage to total failure... if that happens while riding, oops! Plus, I think it's much easier to repair steel than the other types of materials.

Lastly, for me, I like how steel looks. I think AL and CF tubes have to be drawn bigger. I like the smaller tubes and classic look of steel.

Plus, Serial Midget told me to buy steel

DBR X6 RIDER · Jul 13, 2005

Two words - TEST RIDING.
What may look good on paper (or computer monitor) might not be so good when you're riding it. Nothing speaks the truth more than saddling up and seeing what feels best for you...that applies to both frame and component setups.

LordOpie · Jul 13, 2005

bluebug32 said:
Interesting. I'll keep that in mind. Do you have any idea what the price points are like for the type of bike I'd be looking for? Just a ballpark figure

If money isn't an issue, then go for a 105 9-spd equipped bike. I think you get a lot of value there. They run $800-1200 new. Obviously, choose the best frame.

Pau11y · Jul 13, 2005

Here's a completely different thought, lets take a couple of steps back. If you're just starting out, you may want to throw some slicks on your mtb and pedal that around for a bit. I started waaaaay back when w/ a set of 26x1.25" slicks on my hardtail (which then my ex-douche nozzle took over) to get the feel of the road. There was no fitting needed as my mtb already fit me like a glove. Once you've figured out you really want to spend some time on the road, then plung into a new bike, fit, form, riding style, pace, mentality...ect. Otherwise, you can save a bunch of $$ by just getting another set of wheels w/ slicks on it.

MTDBIKE · Jul 13, 2005

Beth I like your avatar. I think I saw one riding down the road the other day.

Pau11y · Jul 14, 2005

bluebug32 said:
Yeah, that's definitely crossed my mind. Are you really noticibly faster with slicks?

Yes. 45#s of air and knobbs vs 90#s and slick. You can typically stay in the middle and upper ring and not have to use your little ring.

DBR X6 RIDER · Jul 14, 2005

Pau11y said:
Yes. 45#s of air and knobbs vs 90#s and slick. You can typically stay in the middle and upper ring and not have to use your little ring.

Plus, you can corner MUCH better with slicks as opposed to knobbies. :cool:

Reactor · Jul 18, 2005

The specialized Nimbus armadillo slicks are good, I used them when I started out and didn't have a road bike.

Morryjg · Jul 28, 2005

Tioga makes a good road tire for mt bikes. It's not a slick 'balloon tire' like a lot that I've seen.LINK I've had them on my wife's bike for a while now and she has had really good luck with them.

Morryjg · Jul 28, 2005

bluebug32 said:
They're a great brand. That's what I've got on my Kona MB right now. Thanks for the info. I'll def. look into it.

I forgot to put in my last post that she is running the 1" tires. Just as long as your MTB rim isn't too wide you can run the 1". To get a tube for them look for 650 x 23 or so. Those tubes will fit a 26x1 fairly well.

Pau11y · Jul 28, 2005

Reactor said:
The specialized Nimbus armadillo slicks are good, I used them when I started out and didn't have a road bike.

I've got a set of these. Take them up to 85 and they'll ride pretty damn close to a road tire.

Reactor · Jul 28, 2005

Pau11y said:
I've got a set of these. Take them up to 85 and they'll ride pretty damn close to a road tire.

I really liked them, I ran 1.5" at about 80 psi, rolled like a roadie tire but still sucked up a little vibration. In six months the only flat I had was caused by an aluminum spur from a spoke hole cutting through the rim tape.

jacksonpt · Jul 29, 2005

I was in the same position as you not too long ago. Last winter I put slicks on my mountain bike and did some road riding to try to stay in shape during the off-season. Then, once the better weather got here, I started looking at real road bikes. blah blah blah, a few months later, I ended up with a Jamis Quest that I am very happy with.

So, to address some things that have been said in the thread so far...

slicks on a mountain bike
I don't know how much actual speed you'll gain, but slicks are sooooooooo much more comfortable. The ride is so much better you can't imagine. My slicks are sitting in my garage collecting dust now - I'll sell them to you cheap if you're interested (PM me). Slicks do make road riding much more enjoyable. Because they are smooth, you feel fast (whether or not you are fast depends

). The are usually smaller/narrower, so they are also more efficient. IMO, a hard tail with slicks is a good way to see if road cycling is going to be something you are really interested in.

What to look for
Fit is clearly the most important. On a mountain bike out on the trail, you are constantly shifting your weight around and getting out of the saddle. This keeps blood flowing and keeps your muscles loose. On a road bike, there is much less of that. For the most part, I stay in the same position the entire ride. I'm getting better about standing and "stretching" to keep things feeling good, but I have to think about it - it's not a natural part of the ride for me, like it is with mountain biking.

The best way to tell what fits is to test ride as many bikes as you can get your hands on - road, touring, cyclocross, etc. The more you ride, the more you'll get a feel for what you like and what you don't like. Try to get at least 20 minutes in for every test ride. Be aware of how your back feels, your butt feels on the saddle, and your hands on the bars. These are all good/early indicators about fit.

Since you are used to a mountain bike, don't get discouraged if the ride feels harsh to you - welcome to the world of zero suspension. Your body will get used to it very quickly, and some bikes feel more harsh than others.

components
Components do make a difference, but for the most part, they are cheap and easy to upgrade/replace as necessary. Derailleurs, shifters, brakes, even cranks are pretty cheap, especially the 105 and lower groupos, so don't put a ton of weight on specs. The one thing to care about is wheels. They are NOT cheap (at least not as cheap as a derailleur), and have a much greater effect on the feel of the bike. I'd rather a bike with Tiagra drivetrain and good wheels than one with 105 drivetrain and average wheels.

frame material
I haven't ridden a full carbon frame, since it was never even close to being in my budget. Since it's not in your budget either, we'll skip this. Aluminum is probably the most common frame material. It's lighter, but IMO, it feels much stiffer (might be psychological, but I can definitely feel it) than steel. Steel is a bit heavier, but tends to be a bit more forgiving when it comes to road vibrations. For me, steel makes for a much more comfortable ride.

Brands and pricing
One approach is to get the cheapest road bike (as long as it is still solid and reliable) that you can find. Go to garage sales and check the local classifieds. Ride it till it brakes, you decide you absolutely love road riding and need/can afford something better, or decide you hate it and put the bike to the curb. Plan on spending $100 or so for something half way decent, but the fit probably won't be as good as if you went with something new. But it is a way to get going.

The other approach is to buy new. I love my Jamis, but Specialized, Giant, and Felt all offer good solid bikes for $600-$700 or so (if I remember correctly from when I was shopping for a bike). If you go new, definitely shop around and try out lots of bikes. An extra month now will end up in a happier you once you plop down your hard earned cash.

Pau11y · Jul 29, 2005

Here's a thread derailment:
How's about a road DH bike? A full squishy w/ say an 80mm fork and back end, smallish mountain frame w/ drop bars and STI, 26x2.1 or slightly wider baldies, 8" discs, and a huge 52T ring so you can pedal in the 50 - 60mph range? And if you REALLY want to go nutz, fairings

I'm thinking of places w/ twisty mountain passes and the occasional straight aways where you can get HONKIN'

Pau11y · Jul 30, 2005

bluebug32 said:
Ooh...very enticing...how much do these run, though?

Hehehe... it's not something you can go to a store and buy. If you want one, you'll have to build it from frame up.
Here's something you might be interested in tho. I'm turning my steel HT into a kind of cross/road bike. The Cove Handjob has disc tabs so I've built wheels for it already for the conversion. King ISO 32 hole rear and Hayes Hugi 32 hole front laced to a pair of roadie Mavic Open Pro and some 30mm cross rubber (but can have roadie slicks too). I'm going to get some Avid BB7 for the road (they do make them) and use a Dura Ace triple STI with it. It'll be driven by standard mtn bike triple (24/34/46) to a 12-32 cluster and XTR tranny. Of course it'll have drops and not risers. I just can't figure out aluminum or carbon for the bars (maybe aluminum for crash survivability). Below is the Cove:

A really light '01 SID Race will replace the portly Z2 Atom 80 you see in the pic. If this config rides well, I'm going to have the frame and fork custom painted high gloss black w/ light blue or rose pearl over top

And I'll prob keep the mtn wheels you see so I can put the Armadillo slicks on them and use it as a commuter or maybe get some Hutchins race slicks so I can do light singletrack, on drops

rooftest · Jul 30, 2005

Pretty sweet

hooples3 · Aug 10, 2005

a few years back i put slicks on my hardtail and havent looked back yet. I use this bike for my "road" rides and commuting on a daily basis.I have done a few centuries on them as well. With the slicks the bike doesnt have that sluggish feeling. i think the key with slicks on a MTB is to keep the air pressure really high, everytime i feel slow on the bike, its usually because my tires are a bit low. I pump them up and it feels great again. I still dont see any use for a road bike in my life, but if i had more money i'd consider it!!!

I use continental town and country tires and they have held up great. I replace them every year at about 2500 miles on them.

chicodude · Aug 10, 2005

Pau11y said:
Here's a thread derailment:
How's about a road DH bike? A full squishy w/ say an 80mm fork and back end, smallish mountain frame w/ drop bars and STI, 26x2.1 or slightly wider baldies, 8" discs, and a huge 52T ring so you can pedal in the 50 - 60mph range? And if you REALLY want to go nutz, fairings I'm thinking of places w/ twisty mountain passes and the occasional straight aways where you can get HONKIN'

I would want to do that, but maybe something with a bit more travel, and throw some hookworms on it :thumb:

Mackie · Aug 10, 2005

bluebug32 said:
I'd like to look into a road bike.Beth

Foregt weight, forget super high end components, just go for fit fit fit.
It took me a long time to dial in the fit on my first road bike (cross bike, actually), so you want to get pretty close to start off with. You move around a lot less on the road, so anything that is a little pain at first will likely become big pain later.

As other posters have said, a 105 bike (in mountain bike terms, this is about equivalent to LX) will cost you in the $800 range.

If you are willing to go a step or so down in parts to Sora, you still get most of the benefits of STI (Shifters integrated with brake levers) for lots less cash.
For example, REI is closing out K2 bikes right now - you can find a nice ride for $450-500.

Check Performance shops as well, if you have one near you, as they occasionally have some great deals. Also, check all the shops as October nears - Interbike mans that the 06 models are on the way, and dealers will be clearing out the 05 stuff cheap!

Oh, one more thing - 28mm tires make more of a comfort difference than caron forks or seatstays. Don't get suckered in to the big-ticket, small payoff upgrades.

Good luck!

Reactor · Aug 10, 2005

bluebug32 said:
Sounds good. So I would definitely gain a noticable amount of speed with these slicks?

About 25% over 2.0/2.1 knobbies.

robdamanii · Aug 11, 2005

Ok, I'm sort of in the same boat here. I'm moving to Seneca Falls for grad school, and with all the nice rolling wine trail hills there, I'm sort of thinking a roadie would be a good investment to build some endurance and be ready to ride trails in the spring.

The question here is would something basic, such as a Trek 1000, be good enough for just pounding out mile after mile, or would I want something a little more well appointed?

Morryjg · Aug 11, 2005

robdamanii said:
The question here is would something basic, such as a Trek 1000, be good enough for just pounding out mile after mile, or would I want something a little more well appointed?

Either something basic that is brand new, or go for used and see if you can get something with nicer components/wheels. Go ride a ton of bikes and figure out what fits you best, and then start watching ebay and stuff.

Pau11y · Aug 17, 2005

The Cove just got a new set of wheels. Tonight, she's gonna get drops, STIs, and new BB7 for roadies. The Atom 80 is also getting switched to a (red) Rock Shox SID Race, circa 2001. As she stands now, it's a very flicky bike and is significantly faster on the roads than w/ the older 2.1x26 race slicks. The Michelin Jet (30x700c) is running at 70/75 lbs of air frt/rr respectively.

sunny · Aug 19, 2005

Hey Beth,

I didn't see anyone mention femme-specific bikes... Since you mentioned you are short in the arms and torso, a feminine-specific bike would be ideal for you.

Bike size: measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Bikes come as small as 44cm. I'm 5'5" and ride a 50. The geometry of the bike is largely determined by the bike height.
Because a woman's legs are longer and her torso is shorter than a man's of the same height, a femme-specific bike has a shorter top tube. The result is that you don't feel nearly as stretched out. I highly recommend a femme.

Manufacturers who make femme-specific bikes are: Specialized, Cannondale, Trek (not sure of any others). Be aware that some manufacturers will SAY they have a femme-specific, and it has pink stitching on the saddle or something, but the geometry is the same as the men's. :mad:

Frame material:
you have two ends of a scale:
responsive -------------------- plush
Aluminum ------- Steel -------- Carbon Fibre
An Al frame will transfer every bit of power you push into the crank arm towards propelling your forward.
A CF frame will give you the smoothest ride, but will feel almost sluggish next to the Al.
Your choice.
Many Al bikes have a CF fork or seat stays that will soak up road vibration to some degree.

I work in a bike shop. Let me know if you have any questions. If I can't answer them, I'll find someone who can.

-sunny (laura)

MtnBikerChk · Aug 19, 2005

#1 - of course, fit is most important like everyone has said....

to me, slick on an MTB can't compare to a road bike. for entry level, 105 components, the giant ocr gives you great bang for the buck. Also, the treks wsds are nice.

go and try a bunch. You'll know what feels right when you sit in the cockpit!

(also, go buy from a good shop that will take the time to get you sized right - even if that means swapping stems and/or handlebars).

Mountain biker looking for a road bike

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