New bike build help

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

Get an LG1 guide, Welgo MGq pedals (tons of grip and there light), a road saddle, some EA 70 bars and something other than raceface for a stem, like a thompson.

The biggest change i would make would be a judge, its a 12 pound single pivot. One of the main advantages to a single pivot is weight, you don't get that with a judge.

As well the one i did a run in whistler on cornered like a pile of crap

Lollapalooza · Sep 23, 2007

I think the Judge has a 150mm rear spacing. If so, the wheels you picked won't work. If you want to go the DT Swiss route and have wheels similar to, but better than, the 1750's, get a 440 rear hub with a 240S front. Then get some Competition spokes and lace them to some 5.1d's. For pedals, the grinds just aren't that good. They're heavy, have a large profile, and don't have very good grip. For your drive train, get some X.9 stuff. It's only 25g heavier and shifts just as well. I'd also swap out the bars if I were you. There are a ton of way lighter ones that come to mind (EA70 for example). As for the stem, something direct mount will lower the bars. Other than that, it looks pretty good.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

Jettj45 said:
I know they ride very well and are fast, I ride a gemini DH now. The frame will not be changing...maybe haha.

The 2 frames are very diferent
gemini is 2 dagrees steeped in the head tube, the stays are longer and the BB is lower.

The bike is going to ride ALOT diferent from your gemini

fellow pinner · Sep 23, 2007

im pretty sure the judge isnt a single pivot.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

fellow pinner said:
im pretty sure the judge isnt a single pivot.

I'm pretty sure you're wrong

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

Personally I wouldn't go with a Judge there are a lot of better SP bikes out there. Maybe check out the Chumba Racing F5, Orange, Morewood, etc.

For wheels look into EX823s on Hope Pro2s. That's a light, bombproof combo for under $600

Consider running a Minion DHF in the front with the Highroller rear.

On that nice of a build get nicer pedals than the grinds. A really sweet pedal that most mountainbikers don't know about is the Fly Bikes Ruben. It's the Ruben Alcantara signature pedal. It's really light, has a great profile, tons of grip, they're really tough, and they come in lots of colors.

If it's just for racing check out the Gravity Light crankset.

I'd probably go X.9 but if you can afford it get X.0. The short cage X.9 is weaker than X.0 if anything. The cage is just plastic.

EA70 or Havoc bars.

Use an integrated stem. Sunline, E-13, Chromag.

Thompson post is a given for me. They rock. As for saddles check out the Sunline V-1.

LG1

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
Personally I wouldn't go with a Judge there are a lot of better SP bikes out there. Maybe check out the Chumba Racing F5, Orange, Morewood, etc.

For wheels look into EX823s on Hope Pro2s. That's a light, bombproof combo for under $600

Consider running a Minion DHF in the front with the Highroller rear.

On that nice of a build get nicer pedals than the grinds. A really sweet pedal that most mountainbikers don't know about is the Fly Bikes Ruben. It's the Ruben Alcantara signature pedal. It's really light, has a great profile, tons of grip, they're really tough, and they come in lots of colors.

If it's just for racing check out the Gravity Light crankset.

I'd probably go X.9 but if you can afford it get X.0. The short cage X.9 is weaker than X.0 if anything. The cage is just plastic.

EA70 or Havoc bars.

Use an integrated stem. Sunline, E-13, Chromag.

Thompson post is a given for me. They rock. As for saddles check out the Sunline V-1.

LG1

freestyle BMX pedals are not ganna grip well, BMXers don't like bein glued to there pedals.

UST is HEAVY, if its a racing bike.

If you want light go 5.1Ds on 340 hubs with some light spokes and alloy nips

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
freestyle BMX pedals are not ganna grip well, BMXers don't like bein glued to there pedals.

UST is HEAVY, if its a racing bike.

If you want light go 5.1Ds on 340 hubs with some light spokes and alloy nips

They do I've used them.

No it's not.

That would be a great wheelset too. I'd run a 240f 340r.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
They do I've used them.

No it's not.

That would be a great wheelset too. I'd run a 240f 340r.

It is a FACT UST is HEAVYER, there are no eyelits on the inner wall of the rim, AND there are thoes little brass things that thread into the rim that arent counted in the claimed weight.

The rubens have 8 pinner little pins i dont know how thoes would work well

jvnixon · Sep 23, 2007

UST, if you're running tubeless is lighter than a 521 if you're using anything other than a really lightweight XC tube. Use a regular XC tube and they're the same weight really. Add a DH/FR tube to a 5.1 and your 5.1 wheel will be heavier. Otherwise you're saving very little if any weight.

Use a 721 w/a XC tube and the 823 tubeless will be lighter.

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
It is a FACT UST is HEAVYER, there are no eyelits on the inner wall of the rim, AND there are thoes little brass things that thread into the rim that arent counted in the claimed weight.

The rubens have 8 pinner little pins i dont know how thoes would work well

The actual weight of EX823s is 700g the DT5.1 is 500g. Lightweight 2.1 tubes are about 210g. That's not counting the few grams from the rim strips. With UST rims you don't need sealant. Considering the extra beef of the 823 over 5.1 and the fact that you won't pinch and it's an easy decision IMO.

More pins does not mean more grip. At a point having more pins reduces the bite that each individual pin has. Most pedals I've used had more grip after I removed a few strategic pins. The Rubens are perfect.

GPERKINS · Sep 23, 2007

there are a few thins that can be changed that are not the best choice. like the handle bars. you can replace those with like sun line's. for the stem replace it with a e.13 direct mount stem. as for head set I know that canecreek makes some of the best ones out there. As for your chain guide. dont listem to all of this mumbo jumbo about the LG1 being such a better guide, it is a great chainguide dont get me wrong but personally I chose the SRS over the LG1 because it offers more protection and plus your build is going to be light as hell any ways

If this helps any I just ordered my new bike from my sponsor morewood

Izium DH small/white 2008
Fox- 40 RC2 ( 203mm )
CANE CREEK Double Barrel rear shox
Industry 9 Wheelset ( red spokes/ blackhub on Mavic 823 rims )
Giga pipe DHLT 119 BB
Hlozfeller DH4 crankset
Formula Ora K24 front and rear, 200mm
E13 SRS chain guide
PC 991 sram chain with power link
sram PG970 cassette 12-26
SRAM X9 rear derallieur short
SRAM X0 trigger shifter
Thomson Stem
Cane Creek headset
Riserbar Holzfeller 710 35rise 8deg 31.8 Mirror black
CaneCreek Lock-on grips
SDG bel air
Thomson Seat post
Maxxis Minion DHF/ DHR

Theres my 2008 bike

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

Jettj45 said:
Ill probably stick with the mrp 1 lol stupid but personal preferance. How much do the 823 I-9 set up weigh? I didn't know cane creek made a rear shock, how is it?

The CC Double Barrel is the nicest shock on the market. It's also expensive.

GPERKINS · Sep 23, 2007

as far as weight goes it weighs little of nothing, you should not be really concerned of weight when it comes to wheels, depending on your weight you want something that is going ot hold up over seasons of racing

cane creek is the nicest rear shox on the Market. Period

TheInedibleHulk · Sep 23, 2007

did I mess anything up?

You bought a Judge

fred.r · Sep 23, 2007

GPERKINS said:
as far as weight goes it weighs little of nothing, you should not be really concerned of weight when it comes to wheels, depending on your weight you want something that is going ot hold up over seasons of racing

cane creek is the nicest rear shox on the Market. Period

Rotational weight might possibly be the most important area on a bike to save weight.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

jvnixon said:
UST, if you're running tubeless is lighter than a 521 if you're using anything other than a really lightweight XC tube. Use a regular XC tube and they're the same weight really. Add a DH/FR tube to a 5.1 and your 5.1 wheel will be heavier. Otherwise you're saving very little if any weight.

Use a 721 w/a XC tube and the 823 tubeless will be lighter.

you forget that UST tires are not only HEAVY, but limited in options as far as tires go.

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
you forget that UST tires are not only HEAVY, but limited in options as far as tires go.

You don't have to use UST tires with UST rims.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

that are 2500 grams a set vs 1750 for the single ply freerides, thats almost 2 pounds

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
that are 2500 grams a set vs 1750 for the single ply freerides, thats almost 2 pounds

He's running 2.5". The single ply tires are 2.35" and smaller. Last time I ran single plys with tubes I got 14 flats on 12 runs at 50psi until I couldn't take it anymore. It was retarded.
The 2.5 UST Highrollers are 1300g
The 2.5 3C Highrollers are 1250g
You don't have to use UST tires with UST rims.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
He's running 2.5". The single ply tires are 2.35" and smaller. Last time I ran single plys with tubes I got 14 flats on 12 runs at 50psi until I couldn't take it anymore. It was retarded.
The 2.5 UST Highrollers are 1300g
The 2.5 3C Highrollers are 1250g
You don't have to use UST tires with UST rims.

If you get that many flats on single plys with 50psi, you ride like a hack.

There are other companies that make singly ply 2.5s that hook up well, my point was that UST tires are heavyer and if you are running a non UST tire you need SEALANT

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
If you get that many flats on single plys with 50psi, you ride like a hack.

There are other companies that make singly ply 2.5s that hook up well, my point was that UST tires are heavyer and if you are running a non UST tire you need SEALANT

Or it's a little rocky and you normally ride tubeless. Also light tubes.

Nope don't need sealant. They leak a little at first then seat up nicely.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
Or it's a little rocky and you normally ride tubeless. Also light tubes.

Nope don't need sealant. They leak a little at first then seat up nicely.

that is SUPER sketch.

I would run sealant even with UST tires and rim, ive pinched holes in tires

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
that is SUPER sketch.

I would run sealant even with UST tires and rim, ive pinched holes in tires

Depends where you ride. If you're in cactus country then some sealant's not a bad idea. Everywhere I ride is rocky and muddy. Every flat I've ever gotten (almost) has been a pinch flat.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
Depends where you ride. If you're in cactus country then some sealant's not a bad idea. Everywhere I ride is rocky and muddy. Every flat I've ever gotten (almost) has been a pinch flat.

You still might get a thorn, or glass, or a sharp stick or something.

DavidMakalaster · Sep 23, 2007

TheMontashu said:
You still might get a thorn, or glass, or a sharp stick or something.

Dude we are talking about a race bike. Any puncture flat that is small enough to seal itself will not leak fast enough to be an issue on a race run.

TheMontashu · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
Dude we are talking about a race bike. Any puncture flat that is small enough to seal itself will not leak fast enough to be an issue on a race run.

Stans sealent will seal a BIG hole. I think they use about a quarter inch screwdriver to demonstrate the sealant with, thats more than just a pin hole that wont be an issue.

DhDork · Sep 23, 2007

DavidMakalaster said:
I'd probably go X.9 but if you can afford it get X.0. The short cage X.9 is weaker than X.0 if anything. The cage is just plastic.

Overall, the X9 is much stronger. If you compare the two, you would see an overall difference in the amount of material used. The X9 has a lot more on the parallelogram, and on the knuckle (b?). What I'm doing for mine, is using an X9, and putting an X0 cage on it from my old derailleur. Get the best of both worlds!

[Tha]Shovla · Sep 23, 2007

I know a sponsored racer who rode Cannondale Judge for a season. Yes its a single pivot, btw. Also she had some complaints about the linkages holding up and the bearings. Apparantly she was getting a lot of play in the rear suspension (in a side to side motion, not up and down) and she would tighten bolts and various pivot points at the begining of each ride. Not exactly something i would want. Likewise its a longer bike than most DH race bikes and she had some troubles with tight single track cornering. She now rides a glory and loves it a lot more. and so do her race results. Im not saying dont buy a Judge but there are a lot of frames out there that are better. BUt.. if you have to ride one get good parts so you can swap them out next season when you dont like the frame

New bike build help

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Turbo Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey

Turbo Monkey

Monkey

Dwangus Bogans

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Monkey

Pourly Tatteued Jeu

Monkey

Monkey

Monkey