that's actually fairly brilliant.
Pressing out headset
- Thread starter MikeD
- Start date
Had to run the 180mm 66...
The more I think about this, the more I think kerf cuts are the way to go. If I can get two near each other and use a punch on the cup to free the slice from the headtube, I can actually use some of my work stuff to assist as Westy noted. Got a hand-pumped hydraulic spreader/cutter (Jaws of Life style) that I could use to squeeze the remaining headset and hopefully peel it away from the HT a bit more.
Thread a hack saw balde through that bitch.
Cut fast at first then slow your roll and check after each cut.
About 60* from each other, knock the piece in.
Tap the rest out easy peasy
Cut fast at first then slow your roll and check after each cut.
About 60* from each other, knock the piece in.
Tap the rest out easy peasy
I think my old Nicolai frame "needed" to have a cup with a full inch of pen to keep the Germans happy.
They would not have liked the 1deg headset that went in to it.
EDIT- Are the steel cups hardened? Could be a lot of hacksawing.
That’s why I suggested a reciprocating saw.
I would doubt it, a hardened cup would be prone to cracking. You want such a component to be tough but not hardened.
That's what happened to a steel cup one I had, couldn't work out why my steering got heavy.
Possibly an FSA......?
Kerf width was all I needed. Used a hacksaw threaded through HT for most of it.
Cut the cup down most of the way with a Dremel to meet the kerf on the insert portion and then saw-bladed them together till it seemed only a paper thin layer remained.
Hit it round the cup rim with a hammer to loosen it, figuring it had room to collapse and pull away from the wall now, and then tried the standard cup remover. Knocked out easy.
Put it back in by hand as a guard while I do the other side. But I apparently need more hacksaw blades, so I will let this Festivius miracle sit tight for later.
.
Cut the cup down most of the way with a Dremel to meet the kerf on the insert portion and then saw-bladed them together till it seemed only a paper thin layer remained.
Hit it round the cup rim with a hammer to loosen it, figuring it had room to collapse and pull away from the wall now, and then tried the standard cup remover. Knocked out easy.
Put it back in by hand as a guard while I do the other side. But I apparently need more hacksaw blades, so I will let this Festivius miracle sit tight for later.
.
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Not the headtube nor stays.
Somehow missed this. Frame material depends on which era it was made. The "new" version was 4130.
So...after all my headset work, it is as it always is. Should have left it alone.
Really didn't like the feel of the angled set at all. Alloy Chris King back in.
Anyone need a 1 1/8" 1.5 degree angled headset??
Really didn't like the feel of the angled set at all. Alloy Chris King back in.
Anyone need a 1 1/8" 1.5 degree angled headset??
You got 1.5 degrees from your headset? My works headset eeks out just one degree. I did like that better. I'd go for way more ... but not really at the expense of reach. I'm happy to just continue to ride it as is.
Thanks, but no. I have a matched set and I don’t want to faff for 1/2 a degree.
But HOW CAN YOU RIDE WITHOUT SLACKR HEAD DANGLE!??
Well, personally, I think a dropper, wide bars, short stem and decent reach all combined are far more effective than 3 degrees of HTA. I'd much rather have a dropper and 70HTA than 65 and no dropper. I'm not an advocate for super-steep HTA...but I think the amount a slack HTA helps/benefits has been blown way way out of proportion by the industry and every social media shrill.