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Profile crank spindle question

toonces

Monkey
Apr 10, 2002
132
0
nowhere
i have a 2008 26" NS Suburban frame on which i'm about to slap a set of Profile cranks. the spindle of the crank measures just under 6" so i assume it's the 5.75". i have a couple questions/issues.

1. anybody have problems with spacing/clearance running a 25t sprocket and 5.75" spindle?

2. when the BB cups are snug to the frame, there is quite a bit of tightness in the spindle. feels fine when one cup is backed up just a hair. should i use a spacer under one of the cups or trim the tube spacer inside?

thanks for all the help.
 

Wumpus

makes avatars better
Dec 25, 2003
8,161
153
Six Shooter Junction
1. ????

2. I ended up having to put a spacer inside my BB, but it could be either. make sure to use a steal as the aluminum one I had got chewed up some by the steel spacer. It still bound up a little when tightened all the the way so I run it backed off a little. Never had a problem with it coming loose, but they are on my SS so doesn't see the stress that a jumpbike would see.
 

Savage_Animal

Monkey
Feb 3, 2008
658
0
Norcal
I have a 2008 26 suburban as well. (still building it up) but my 26t tree sproket has minum clearence at 2cm away from the bb, if you do the math it should work out. i would go with 6" just to be safe though.

I just ordered the profile cranks and the 6" Ti spindle is sold out... :( gotta wait 2-3 weeks...
 

wadly_1001

Chimp
Dec 19, 2007
16
0
i have a 2008 26" NS Suburban frame on which i'm about to slap a set of Profile cranks. the spindle of the crank measures just under 6" so i assume it's the 5.75". i have a couple questions/issues.

1. anybody have problems with spacing/clearance running a 25t sprocket and 5.75" spindle?

2. when the BB cups are snug to the frame, there is quite a bit of tightness in the spindle. feels fine when one cup is backed up just a hair. should i use a spacer under one of the cups or trim the tube spacer inside?

thanks for all the help.
1)Yeah, "Normally" on most bikes with a 73mm bb shell, with a euro bb, a 5.75" spindle cannot fit properly on the bike.

But you might be able to use the crank spacers instead of the normal cone spacers to fit your cranks onto the bb, thats the way i have managed to solve that problem on my frame and on a friend's blkmarket

2) Did you put any grease on the spindle? and are you using the correct size tube spacer (if your using the normal profile spacer it should be the gold spacer)?

You should not to have to cut the tube spacer or put a spacer in the bb. You should consult your lbs or NS on the problem.
 

toonces

Monkey
Apr 10, 2002
132
0
nowhere
since the 6" spindles are backordered from my supplier, i just tossed things together to see how much of what spacers i would need but lo and behold, everything fit. by 'fit', i mean, the spindles took the spacers and the crank tool bottomed during installation on both sides. to me it didn't seem like the spindle penetrated the crank that far, but the tool was bottomed out so... i have these pictures. the clearance to the sprocket is fine as too is the spacing to either crank. good to go? meh.



 
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sittingduck

Turbo Monkey
Jun 22, 2007
1,958
2
Oregon
Looks to me like your chainstays are so wide, you will need at least a 6" spindle.
I have a 5.75" spindle on my STP, and the arms are fully engaged. The bottom bracket I have doesn't stick out much at all though, and the chainstays are probably a little narrower.
 

DirtBag

Monkey
Feb 1, 2006
648
0
Looks like a 6" is indeed needed. Also looks like the drive side could be re-spaced to get the chainring closer. That will help. The tool bottoming out does not matter too much. Mine does as well and I have to add a spacer to the tool to completely tighten mine down. On my Mob I have a 6" spindle and I have less than a 1/4"
of unused crank interface.

Off topic does anyone else get creaking using a Ti spindle? It is not the bb bearings or dirt as I just cleaned it all up. I took everything apart and cleaned, greased, ti-prepped and reassembled. When I stand in the bike and put pressure on one crank arm, I get a creak. Then if I back pedal 180 degrees and put pressure on the other side I get a creak also. This is without pedaling. Just wondering if the Ti spindle is flexing a bit and that is the creak.
 

sittingduck

Turbo Monkey
Jun 22, 2007
1,958
2
Oregon
is that because you think those arms need to press onto the spindle further?
Yes, in my opinion, the arm should be as far onto the spindle as possible. More spline engagement = a stronger setup. It looks like you are only catching about half of the depth possible in your pic.
 
Mar 27, 2007
263
0
LA, CA
Off topic does anyone else get creaking using a Ti spindle? It is not the bb bearings or dirt as I just cleaned it all up. I took everything apart and cleaned, greased, ti-prepped and reassembled. When I stand in the bike and put pressure on one crank arm, I get a creak. Then if I back pedal 180 degrees and put pressure on the other side I get a creak also. This is without pedaling. Just wondering if the Ti spindle is flexing a bit and that is the creak.
Could be the crank bolt. Back when I was younger I ran "powerlite" 3 piece set-up, which was pretty much the first profile rip-off crank. Mine used to creak and I have heard that the tree spline drive was created partly to solve this problem (could be wrong).

To derail the thread even further, has anyone heard about the release on the profile hollow chromoly spindle? Thought it had an Aug/Sep release date.
 

cmc

Turbo Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
2,052
6
austin
Could be the crank bolt. Back when I was younger I ran "powerlite" 3 piece set-up, which was pretty much the first profile rip-off crank. Mine used to creak and I have heard that the tree spline drive was created partly to solve this problem (could be wrong).

To derail the thread even further, has anyone heard about the release on the profile hollow chromoly spindle? Thought it had an Aug/Sep release date.
I'm already running the hollow Profile chromo spindle. I ordered it from Profile a couple of months ago.