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Quick Question. How do I determine the Rear Travel on my BigHit Spec?

ballaholyk84

Monkey
Aug 24, 2007
143
0
Beaverton, OR
Like the title says. I am wondering how I determine the total travel of the rear? Here is a photo that shows what I have. It is a Risse Racing Jupiter 5R that is currently set at 8" Eye to Eye. Does different shocks make different total travel?


 
Apr 28, 2006
235
0
North White Plains, NY
Well the 2005 Specialized BigHit Spec came stock with a 56mm stroke shock giving 5.5" of travel. This means it runs about a 2.5 (2.4946) travel to stroke ratio. So whatever your shock stroke is, multiply it by 2.5 and that's a tiny bit over what your rear wheel travel is.

Oh and the stock shock for the Spec was a 200mm eye-to-eye length which is 7.87", so if your Risse shock has the same stroke, it won't affect the travel, but your head angle will be just a bit steeper (and bb a bit higher) because of your longer eye-to-eye length.
 
Jun 29, 2007
754
0
Alabama
Well the 2005 Specialized BigHit Spec came stock with a 56mm stroke shock giving 5.5" of travel. This means it runs about a 2.5 (2.4946) travel to stroke ratio. So whatever your shock stroke is, multiply it by 2.5 and that's a tiny bit over what your rear wheel travel is.

Oh and the stock shock for the Spec was a 200mm eye-to-eye length which is 7.87", so if your Risse shock has the same stroke, it won't affect the travel, but your head angle will be just a bit steeper (and bb a bit higher) because of your longer eye-to-eye length.
That does look crazy-steep.
 
Apr 28, 2006
235
0
North White Plains, NY
Also keep in mind that a longer travel fork will slacken the head-angle. So if you do make the rear end longer, as a rule of thumb, if you increase the eye-to-eye of the shock you'll need to add whatever length the shock was increased by * your compression ratio to the length of your fork to keep the factory specs.

In your case this would mean that since the rear shock is 3.2 mm longer, you would need a fork that is (3.2 * 2.5) 8mm or 5/16" longer (axle-to-crown length) to still have factory geometry on your bike.