racing tires?
- Thread starter NRSracer
- Start date
You silly child DH tubes for XC racing you'll be further back than 7th.
That happened to me once i was climbing a hill and i got pich flat so i change it in about 1.5 minutes with co2 and i just get back to were i was and pop another and i didn't have another tube so i didn't finish.
First try pumping your tires up more 40psi is good. I'm finished racing for the year no more races i can find except for a 12hour night race.
I don't have enough lights and and 8 hour lap race around the most borring coarse ever i love long distance races cause i'm much better at them and alway get a medal. It's just going around in a circle is borring.
That happened to me once i was climbing a hill and i got pich flat so i change it in about 1.5 minutes with co2 and i just get back to were i was and pop another and i didn't have another tube so i didn't finish.
First try pumping your tires up more 40psi is good. I'm finished racing for the year no more races i can find except for a 12hour night race.
I don't have enough lights and and 8 hour lap race around the most borring coarse ever i love long distance races cause i'm much better at them and alway get a medal. It's just going around in a circle is borring.
Better tires probably won't flat so often. Maby yours are too narrow or your pressure is too high? What tires are you riding?
How much do you weigh? What kind of terrain do you race on?
I run 2.0's (pretty whimpy tires that get replaced about every 2-3 months) with about 40-50 psi and race on dry dusty fire roads and rocky single track. That will prevent pinch flats but not thorns. There's not much you can do to prevent thorns except use some of that slime stuff to self seal.
I run 2.0's (pretty whimpy tires that get replaced about every 2-3 months) with about 40-50 psi and race on dry dusty fire roads and rocky single track. That will prevent pinch flats but not thorns. There's not much you can do to prevent thorns except use some of that slime stuff to self seal.
dude i'm starting to see a pattern. broken frames, flat tires.....i think JMAC was right you don't ride smooth enough. while riding try and flow through things instead of just running through stuff. this will probably help out w/ the flats and broken frames and parts.
The tire debate. I have given this alot of thought. I stepped up my braking to Hayes mechanical just to try it for more control. I was pleasantly surprised at my findings. I now intend to increase the travel and use a 100mm coil next year.
I am riding:
Bontrager Revolt 2.2 (front)
Bontrager Jones 2.2 (rear)
I hate these tires and usually only use my kevlars for fresh snowfall. The only reason they are on my bicycle is because my race tires were too fast for my bicycle. I don't have cable stops for my rear brake housing and the rear brake sucks without Jaguar super reinforced cable. I am in the middle of upgrading my rear brake to Hayes Mech so that I can reinstall my race tires.
I want to be riding:
Maxxis Mofo XC (1.95)
The tire issue has dragged me down this year. To get the speed I need control and stopping power. All I could do to temporarily fix the problem was to add the over-sized tires. My bicycle has been bashing the heck out of me so the wider tires encourage less fatigue. With a little more stopping power in my rear brake I should be just fine.
The Hayes disc brake enabled me to truly get more out of my air fork. I dropped 8 pounds of pressure in each fork leg after multiple adjustments as soon as I bought it. I want a longer coil fork next to make it softer and so that I don't have to worry about blowing the seals. Next I want to take the bicycle to new heights after I have corrected the speed and control situation.
I am riding:
Bontrager Revolt 2.2 (front)
Bontrager Jones 2.2 (rear)
I hate these tires and usually only use my kevlars for fresh snowfall. The only reason they are on my bicycle is because my race tires were too fast for my bicycle. I don't have cable stops for my rear brake housing and the rear brake sucks without Jaguar super reinforced cable. I am in the middle of upgrading my rear brake to Hayes Mech so that I can reinstall my race tires.
I want to be riding:
Maxxis Mofo XC (1.95)
The tire issue has dragged me down this year. To get the speed I need control and stopping power. All I could do to temporarily fix the problem was to add the over-sized tires. My bicycle has been bashing the heck out of me so the wider tires encourage less fatigue. With a little more stopping power in my rear brake I should be just fine.
The Hayes disc brake enabled me to truly get more out of my air fork. I dropped 8 pounds of pressure in each fork leg after multiple adjustments as soon as I bought it. I want a longer coil fork next to make it softer and so that I don't have to worry about blowing the seals. Next I want to take the bicycle to new heights after I have corrected the speed and control situation.
pan racer fire xc pros the 127tpi ones. their the way to go.
Ok dont bash on me too much... But I dont understand..
Why would using DH tubes for XC racing make him further back than 7th... I thought DH tubes were thicker and stronger, wounldnt that make them more resistant to flats? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Kosin Trouble
they would be more resistant to flats but they are a LOT heavier then standard tubes are. i honestly believe the problem doesn't lie in the tire/tube set up. it's how smooth this person actually rides. if you just bash through stuff and don't attempt to pick clean lines you are going to get flats. another idea maybe using a better rim strip. the old strip might be plastic or wasn't properly installed....
Yo, indie,
Your're one to talk about riding smoother and more in control:devil:
-mickey
Your're one to talk about riding smoother and more in control:devil:
-mickey
take the Hutchinson Green tires, theire asome,
I have the XC edition (on DH use....), and running them now for 1.5 year
and to date just 1 snakebite, and no normal flats.
I have the XC edition (on DH use....), and running them now for 1.5 year
and to date just 1 snakebite, and no normal flats.
:devil: i've been riding a lot smoother lately, but you know how i ride. i just pick lines and blow through them lol
why i can't keep a set of wheels in good condition. hey i still gotta email you about the **** that happened n what's going on currently.No insult meant, but I hate panaracer. They are trash. Just my two cents though
I got the Hayes mech's on the bike. They work sweet with my Maxxis 1.95's. I will never go to a wider tire again except for when the mud is 4" or deeper. (past the spoke nipples is when I switch to my dh mud tires)
I love my bicycle now but it went from 25lbs to 27lbs this summer. I am going off to buy a new cassette and chain today so maby that will lighten it up a little. I am beginning to save up for a 2003 105mm Marathon S fork. That aught to correct the problem.
I love my bicycle now but it went from 25lbs to 27lbs this summer. I am going off to buy a new cassette and chain today so maby that will lighten it up a little. I am beginning to save up for a 2003 105mm Marathon S fork. That aught to correct the problem.
Pat if you're talking about 1.95 michelin comp s the green ones.
I would have to totally disaggree and say you suck at riding cause here in Quebec the trails i race on are filled with wet roots and rocks and atleast half the racers use comp s.
I'm pretty sure DEYV uses them and he is wicked fast on technicle.
I'll proble be using them all next year racing.:devil:
I would have to totally disaggree and say you suck at riding cause here in Quebec the trails i race on are filled with wet roots and rocks and atleast half the racers use comp s.
I'm pretty sure DEYV uses them and he is wicked fast on technicle.
I'll proble be using them all next year racing.:devil:
yeah, so far to date I've found that the michelin comp s's are just as good if not better on rocks and roots than anything I've ridden. Plus, they roll really fast and shed mud like no other. I've haven't flatted on these yet and run them at 2.5 bar in the front ant 2 bar in the rear (29 and 35 psi) with torelli ultralight(?) tubes. BTW, I'd consider myself a "clean" rider, I aim for the fastest, smoothest line. My $0.02.
Ya i'm getting suspiciuos of this pat or maybe we should call him FLAT pat just kidding but you say you're light and you ride a FS rig with plenty of air in the tubes. If you get flats i'd have to put the blame on your riding style.
I race very rocky trails with lots of gaged rocks that sometimes there's no way around and i don't get flats anymore racing.
and when you say michelins are bad i question you. cause if you ever look at photos from pro races halve the guys are on comp s 's.
just kidding but you say you're light and you ride a FS rig with plenty of air in the tubes. If you get flats i'd have to put the blame on your riding style.I race very rocky trails with lots of gaged rocks that sometimes there's no way around and i don't get flats anymore racing.
and when you say michelins are bad i question you. cause if you ever look at photos from pro races halve the guys are on comp s 's.
Not my riding style, i know how to pick a line, and i don't do jumps or anything like that on my bike.Originally posted by JMAC
Ya i'm getting suspiciuos of this pat or maybe we should call him FLAT pat
I race very rocky trails with lots of gaged rocks that sometimes there's no way around and i don't get flats anymore racing.
and when you say michelins are bad i question you. cause if you ever look at photos from pro races halve the guys are on comp s 's.
The michelins are what came with my bike, don't know what kind, but when it's wet they slip everywhere.
Well unless by panaracer you mean the toninator their isnt really anything to take offense to but would you care to elaborate on "Why" they suck so bad?
on a side on MAXXIS LARSON MIMO's rock.