hey my new frame is on its way and I need a wheel set but im not sure what the rear spacing is...135 or 150?
Rear spacing on an 02 bb7
- Thread starter snipes287
- Start date
135X10mmsnipes287 said:
My '03 was 135mm QR. I believe the '02 and '03 rear ends are identical
135mm x 10mm on my '02
Although being a cromoly rear end does that mean I could ghetto rig it into a 155mm spacing?
Although being a cromoly rear end does that mean I could ghetto rig it into a 155mm spacing?
I wish it was that easy. However I have always wondered how difficult it would be to make a new 150mm swingarm, that would solve my only complaint with the BB7, the chainline/tire clearance.JoeRay said:135mm x 10mm on my '02
Although being a cromoly rear end does that mean I could ghetto rig it into a 155mm spacing?
actually i wonder if it would be possible to bend the original one to do thatWheelieMan said:
if ya know how to fab u can do anything u want.
Hmm, seems I need to talk to the boilermakers at work here.krazydher1 said:
Probably worth a box or two in beer to get them to do it but 
My personal gripe is having to dish my wheel 5mm to the nondrive side for my michy comp24 2.5 to clear my MRP. And forget putting anything biggger on, sheesh, unless its a slick.
Anyone know of a 4130 supplier down under, or better yet upgrade to some of that yummy T45 that curtis use.
Just use a thinner rim like the Mavic 521 (or whatever it's called) or deemax and use a Michelin comp16 in 2.5. You'll have your clearance and a good tire there.
cmon garrett i allready told you. 135. i think im gonna ask john to make me a 150x12mm i can see if hell gimme a deal on 2 of em
I recomend you to use a 12mm hub that is 10mm at the dropout threads. Stiffens up the rear end very well! I know DaBomb makes such hubs and i also think Woodman Components.
I use a Blackspire DS-1 and i took a Dremel and grinded down some material on the bomerang, where the bolt which holds the roll is. Cleared enough for a comp 16 2,5.
Iv'e seen a guy run a Evil with a comp 32 (2,8) in the rear!
I use a Blackspire DS-1 and i took a Dremel and grinded down some material on the bomerang, where the bolt which holds the roll is. Cleared enough for a comp 16 2,5.
Iv'e seen a guy run a Evil with a comp 32 (2,8) in the rear!
Yea, evil guides should provide a tad more tire clearance, but michelin 2.8? He must have been using a 128mm spindle.rockwool said:
Dunno, i know he's got Middleburn cranks on here's the bike from wrong angle but you might find other pics of it.WheelieMan said:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66860
The bike he is getting was mine. Balfa designed there bikes around certain parts. Like if you are not using a 3 piece crank you have to use a Shimano 116mm BB and XTR cCranks to get the proper clearence. Chain Guide are wierd to, I think Dave Weagle at E.13 had designed a few CG to fit the BB7 because it had such poor tire clearence. The spacing for the rear is a 135mm. The bike is only set up to take a quick release rear hub so there is no thru alxes aloud. I ran Mavic 321 rims laced to DT Swiss Onyx hubs, and was very imprested with the over all proformence. Aside from the weight of the wheel set they very great, very strong! My total weight of my build was 46 lbs. I was going for strenghth, because I am not a light racer.
Anyway hope this answered some of your questions Garret. Frame is on the way, it left yesturday.
Later,
Justin
Anyway hope this answered some of your questions Garret. Frame is on the way, it left yesturday.
Later,
Justin
Don't use wider BBs...it's a pain to set everything up because you have to keep the pulley in line with the chainring or else it sounds like the bike is eating itself.
u clear the tire but then the front rollers not where its sposed to be and you need a longer chain. trust me me and snipes have done this for temps before. your sposed to run it with the front roller just touching the chain.
Not sure what the deal is with MRP, but I am running an evil guide on my BB7 and just took off the upper plate thing. Because of the pulley, the chain is already tensioned on the top, so I see no reason to be concerned with the location of the upper roller on an MRP.lovebunny said:
RideMTN said:
Damn, makes my build look even more like a behemoth. 64lbs
But, thats what you get with S7's, profiles, biggun/321 wheelset, 2.5s with DH tubes.Not that I care too much about the weight. If I wanna wet my pants over light weight I look to the 20lb Klein hardtail or 15lb Klein roadie in the room next to it.
Just....damn I think I need to swap some parts. Hmm 888RC with low riders, Ti spring on Avy shock, Hope Mono 6's maybe even some hadey hubs too.
Anyone wanna lend me some notes? Sorry,
I agree though getting the chain line right is a right pain though. Probably why it will be hard to change from the profiles. A mate spent ages trying in vain to get older holzfeller cranks to work and then deore cranks to no luck too.
The front roller on an MRP doesn't do alot except changing the chain more interesting.
or if you are, mod it (it doesnt even need a roller, just something to keep the chain from jumping off). Why suffer poor clearance for no reason?WheelieMan said:
well if you make the boomerang all the way up so it clears the tire. it makes it so the chain needs to be insanly long. i coul;d probly do it now that i have a road cassette. but its working just fine
having it high also means theres less pull on the lower chainline throught the travel, so less derailler dancing.lovebunny said: