Before I start going caveman switching to my low rise crowns, what's the best way to get the old crown race off my 888?
Removing crown race
- Thread starter fortfun19
- Start date
a hundred dollar crown race remover tool that looks like this:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=CRP-1
take it to your lbs and if they dont suck they will pull it for free. you dont want to screw those sorts of things up.
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=50&item=CRP-1
take it to your lbs and if they dont suck they will pull it for free. you dont want to screw those sorts of things up.
The interface is just a mild press fit. That's a good tool for taking a dozen crown races off per day but isn't needed to take every race off... I've taken a few of mine off.
Take a small flathead screwdriver (make sure it's a small one, you want as thin a head as possible), and gently tap it underneath the race. Go around the race doing this, and then make a second pass but this time pry up a bit with the screwdriver.
If you do it evenly, you can take the race off without too much trouble.
Take a small flathead screwdriver (make sure it's a small one, you want as thin a head as possible), and gently tap it underneath the race. Go around the race doing this, and then make a second pass but this time pry up a bit with the screwdriver.
If you do it evenly, you can take the race off without too much trouble.
skatetokil said:
I just got the tool a couple of weeks ago. Takes about 10 seconds to remove the race. If it were just for me, it would be a waste, but I know at least 20 other riders who must have at least 50 bikes between them.
What's the cheap mechanic way to put one back on (besides a Park tool)???
Hammer and flathead. Seat the race as tight as possible by hand then tap the inside edges of the race. Be sure to alternate sides as you go. Watch out not to damage the face of the race that rides against the headset bearings.
I use a 1 1/4" dia pvc pipe about a foot long and a plastic faced hammer. Works good!el_gordo said:
Mike
I did that. Just took the crown in and they popped it off for free. I did ask how much I owed him, I never assume free service.skatetokil said:
I tried the screwdriver trick but the crown is so wide on a 888 it was impossible to get it under the race.
If you use CK headsets you can get a new "race" (it's called a baseplate on sealed bearing headsets) for $10.
Mike
Be careful if you go this route. It works, but it's real easy to ding up your race with the screwdriver. I've started using a wooden dowel instead. It takes a little longer, but it works and it will deform before the race will.Sirbikesalot33 said:
I've just whacked the race with a plastic mallet. I've got one of those 1.5 reducing headsets though so the race is much larger than the fork crown, there's plenty of room to get at it with just a hammer.
thanks for the seating tips --
I am building up an IH MKIII which came with an integrated headset (FSA Orbit Z). Turns out the race actually has a split in it so I seated it by hand -- first time I've seen this, and while not a shop mechanic I've replaced a dozen or so headsets. I wonder if this makes it less stable...
I am building up an IH MKIII which came with an integrated headset (FSA Orbit Z). Turns out the race actually has a split in it so I seated it by hand -- first time I've seen this, and while not a shop mechanic I've replaced a dozen or so headsets. I wonder if this makes it less stable...
My Giant AC came with some kind of FSA zero stack headset, and the crown race was split. I never had any problems with it. I can't imagine, with proper torque holding everything together (whether you're using a star-nut or another device), that there'd be a problem.el_gordo said:
I figured it would hold up, but it looks very whimpy compared to the other chunks of metal that I have seen as a race. It certainly made installation much easier.
The cheapest by far (even cheaper than pvc pipe and mallet) is just tighten the star nut up so the steering is just a little stiff, then go riding. Huck off a couple of curbs and as soon as you notice the steering become smooth, just tighten up the star nut again (after loosening the stem bolts). Then go riding again. Repeat until it's seated. Usu. takes me about 20 min, and 1/4 of the way down my fave trail.el_gordo said:
I don't know if I'd trust split races. It's just begging for trouble. A bearing or dirt could work its way into the split and over time the rubbing from the two ends of the split grinding against each other during side loads in cornering would eat into the steertube and crown, creating enough friction for a nuclear explosion and we'd all die.
I'm imagining the split "race" isn't a bearing race (directly in contact with the balls) but rather a baseplate for a sealed bearing unit to support the inner race. It sounds like a good idea to me.budgetrider said:
Mike