You can bang your old one out, but you aree going to need a HS press to get the new one in. Your local shop should do it for cheap if you are just getting the cups pressed in.
A headset removal tool is relatively cheap, and necessary if you care at all for your headtube and headset.
A headset press is expensive, and if you're decently handy with tools can be replaced by a length of 1/2" threaded rod, some properly sized washers, and nuts. Search for "headset press" on this site and you'll find more details.
The key is to go slowly and make sure it goes in straight.
The other thing is, if your headtube has never been reamed and faced, it is worthwhile to have the shop perform that before you install the new headset, especially ince you'll be shelling out for a King. Good reaming and facing will insure proper performance (no loosening) and long bearing life.
I would walk in to your LBS with your bike, less fork, wheels, etc and ask if you buy a king from them if they would pop out the old HS and install the new one. And swap the crown race. Thats less than 5 minutes work for a $100 sale. They should go for it. If they say "For a small charge..." ask if you can get them beer or some of that green stuff that mechanics have been known to smoke.
if you are brave...than you can hammer the cups in there with a 2X4 piece of wood and a hammer...use the wood to keep the hammer from hurting the cups.....ive had a high success rate with this one...but only do it to a cheap headset and frame
do a search here on rm. go to the hardware store. go home. do it. i've had success installing crown races and cups with an old bottom cup from a headset and a jerking off manuever and a 2x4 with a hammer. be careful with the King though, they're a little different.
Originally posted by Repack I would walk in to your LBS with your bike, less fork, wheels, etc and ask if you buy a king from them if they would pop out the old HS and install the new one. And swap the crown race. Thats less than 5 minutes work for a $100 sale. They should go for it. If they say "For a small charge..." ask if you can get them beer or some of that green stuff that mechanics have been known to smoke.
But $50 for a headset swap seems steep, I think we charge $30-$35 (USD) without the fork install. Did the $50 included the fork install/swap? If so, that's not bad (remember you're getting a headset swap, fork install, brake adjustment, and headset adjustment).
Getting the old cups out is easy you just need a long soft piece of metal of which to use to hammer on the edge of the cups evenly untill they come out.
Pressing it in gets a little more tricky. The hammer and 2x4 method works well on BMX bikes where everything is made of steel, aluminum needs a little more care. I had a terrible time using the threaded rod technique, the rod kept flexing pushing the cups in unevenly. After spending way to much trying to get them to go in straight. I ended up having to shim the low side, turn the bolt, shim the new low side, turn the bolt and so on. "That was with a new headset" later on I pressed that same headset back into the same frame and it went in much easier. The simplest and the best way I find is to stick the whole top tube in a smooth jaw vice or put a smooth metal plate inbetween and slowly press one cup in at a time using lots of grease.
oh and as for races.. i pound mine off with screwdrivers carefully, then use a piece of steel tube with a rubber washer taped on the bottom to pound them back on.
i also had a hell of a time getting a headset in with the rod/nuts/washers method. but it went eventually.
I'm almost positive that for a chris king headset to retain it's warranty the frame that it is going in must be reamed and faced. At the shop I work at we charge $35 for -
- ream/face (the right way)
- fork install (trim seerer if necessary, seat crown race properly)
- headset installation
- headset adjustment
- star nut installation
- brake adjustment
A Chris King headset is a piece of engineering art, and the installation should be treated accordingly in my opinion. OK, enough ranting, I need to go get some more sleep.
Originally posted by Matt D 5 minutes??? I don't think so.
But $50 for a headset swap seems steep, I think we charge $30-$35 (USD) without the fork install. Did the $50 included the fork install/swap? If so, that's not bad (remember you're getting a headset swap, fork install, brake adjustment, and headset adjustment).
I was refering to a customer who walks in with a frame in one hand, and a fork in the other. Poping out the olds cups, pressing in the new ones, and swaping a crown race is an easy task. But with the fork install, brake adjust, etc, that does involve some time.
$50 is too high. If you buy a King and they charge you anything at all to install find another shop. Maybe 5 minutes to swap the headset, possibly 10 if they stop to drink a cup of coffee.
Did two headsets on two different frames this w/e. If the headtube has been properly reamed and faced they go in easy and straight without a headset press or crown race setter. For a King headset, you're going to need something rigged so that you're not pressing down on the bearings. You'll figure something out.
Not sure this matters at all, but at my shop we have special adapter cups made by King that we use on the Park BB press. Its rather slick and presses the cups in oh soo nice.
I'm also going to put a vote in for proper reaming and facing. And perhaps removal of old cups as well.
Originally posted by spincrazy do a search here on rm. go to the hardware store. go home. do it. i've had success installing crown races and cups with an old bottom cup from a headset and a jerking off manuever and a 2x4 with a hammer. be careful with the King though, they're a little different.
A new Park cup remover and a 3/4" in. bolt with nuts and washers to make a headset press would cost less than the $35 for the install. I've used a 3/4" bolt to press steelsets in with no problem.
And you can use PVC pipe for a crown race setter, though I prefer my $10 slide hammer.
I like being self-sufficient and hate ghetto-rigging, but the bolt works so incredibly well I can't justify a park tool.
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