DT FR2350's or Dee Max? or ?
What would your suggestions be for a guy 240 that beats the crap out of rims?
What would your suggestions be for a guy 240 that beats the crap out of rims?
Rims
- Thread starter Racerx7734
- Start date
Akronts.
Seriously, though: Transition Revolution 36s.
Seriously, though: Transition Revolution 36s.
Oh lord how any times must I answer his question?
mavic 823s laced using dt spokes to hadley hubs
cheaper, better and stronger then T FR2350's or Dee Max or any other pre built
mavic 823s laced using dt spokes to hadley hubs
cheaper, better and stronger then T FR2350's or Dee Max or any other pre built
yeah if you are over 200lbs or are hard on wheels, never go dt. i agree with the above post. or 823 on hopes, little bit cheaper.
BLASPHEMY! Hadley only (except on your backup wheels). But seriously, no reason not to get Hadleys. They'll last forever.
Stay away from trendy/fancy/boutique wheels like those transitions and what not. The mavic wheelsets are overpriced. Sun rims are probably the best for the money. Haven't really seen yet why Mavic rims cost as much as they do. WTB dual duty are a good cheap option too.
mavics are still made in france, part of the reason they still cost a lot. same reason as why dt still cost a lot, made in switzerland, or usa, if its spokes.
Mavic 721's!
$75 full retail really isn't that much for a rim. There's tons of rims that are far more expensive that last not nearly as long and weigh a lot more.
721's kick ass because they use a really hard alloy so they don't dent and ding as often as many other rims. They have a deep hook so they hold onto tires well. They have a solid box section so they don't flatspot as easy. They're always 100% straight so they easily build into fabulous wheels (really important). They're eyeletted. They have a great tire profile with a 2.5" maxxis.
I really can't fault em.
There are rims that are stronger (even an 823), and there's rims that are cheaper, but the combination of strength, weight, price and ease of building easily makes them the best rim in my very experienced opinion (building DH wheels for 8 years).
$75 full retail really isn't that much for a rim. There's tons of rims that are far more expensive that last not nearly as long and weigh a lot more.
721's kick ass because they use a really hard alloy so they don't dent and ding as often as many other rims. They have a deep hook so they hold onto tires well. They have a solid box section so they don't flatspot as easy. They're always 100% straight so they easily build into fabulous wheels (really important). They're eyeletted. They have a great tire profile with a 2.5" maxxis.
I really can't fault em.
There are rims that are stronger (even an 823), and there's rims that are cheaper, but the combination of strength, weight, price and ease of building easily makes them the best rim in my very experienced opinion (building DH wheels for 8 years).
MTX rims for $40 bucks and under, can't beat that unless you have shop/industry hookups
http://www.google.com/products?q=mtx+rims&oe=utf-8&hl=en&scoring=p
http://www.google.com/products?q=mtx+rims&oe=utf-8&hl=en&scoring=p
Building up some 721s and DT straight gauge though bit hard when I'm still waiting on my Hadley hubs 
823s also rate as said above, good thing is theyre easy to get anywhere here at least..
823s also rate as said above, good thing is theyre easy to get anywhere here at least..
Between these two I would go with the Dee Max if you are looking for a rim that will take abuse, not flat-spot or dent easily, and last a while.
For the most part DT makes soft rims for racing. The idea behind this is that a softer rim will absorb the energy of an impact and deform, thereby transmitting less energy to the tire/tube and reduce the probablility of a pinch flat. It works, but if you like to plow through the rough stuff, or are a big boy such as yourself - your rims will looks like Stop signs after about a month.
The rims found on Mavic Dee Max wheelsets, the 721 rim, and 823 rim (among others) use Mavic's proprietary Maxtal hardening process which makes the aluminum much stiffer. Rims like this do not deform that easily but CAN dent and flatspot if pushed hard enough. Design and shape play a big part here as well. I'd say that the regular DeeMax (not the new DeeMax Ultimate) rims and the 823 rim are the toughest ones that Mavic makes. These should easily last at least one season for a guy such as yourself.
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823s FTW
Wheels is allways up 4 que in any matters, strenght, weight, hubs, spokes, nippels and offcorse how wide is the rim . With sence in mind we dont have to forget cost of wheel set, if you do rider hard is better to use more cash on wheels its cheeper in the long run.
And this is 4 the crusader that doesnt do Dh race every weekend like a semi pro, if its so is just to rent a warehouse to store alla of your DT rims that you will change after every run ..
So strong wheels and good weight is what we want.
Hubs: Hadley, hope proII, sun abbah is a good start
Rims: Mavic 721-729-823, Sun Mtx 31-33-39.
Spokes: Dt champ 2,00 silver
Nippels
t brass.
Custom wheel is the best no matter what .
Weight of a good lasting wheels set is 2,2-2,7 kilogram.
My set of wheels is some of the abowe parts, and you kan drop a bomb on it and its still
like new ..
Hub:Rear Aireal industry, front Hope proII
Rims: Sun double track
Spoke; Dt champ
Nippels: Dt brass..
//svein
And this is 4 the crusader that doesnt do Dh race every weekend like a semi pro, if its so is just to rent a warehouse to store alla of your DT rims that you will change after every run ..
So strong wheels and good weight is what we want.
Hubs: Hadley, hope proII, sun abbah is a good start
Rims: Mavic 721-729-823, Sun Mtx 31-33-39.
Spokes: Dt champ 2,00 silver
Nippels
t brass.Custom wheel is the best no matter what .
Weight of a good lasting wheels set is 2,2-2,7 kilogram.
My set of wheels is some of the abowe parts, and you kan drop a bomb on it and its still
like new ..
Hub:Rear Aireal industry, front Hope proII
Rims: Sun double track
Spoke; Dt champ
Nippels: Dt brass..
//svein
823//DT Champs// Hope or something more expensive if you have more cash. I use it with DT revo's as I'm quite light though I still tend to trash wheels quite much.
Stans ZTR flow in front wouldn't be a bad idea. Prebuild wheels are problematic if sth happens. Had old deemax wheels, they lasted and I liked them but when I had to service them quickly it was not possible and I had to built a spare wheel.
Stans ZTR flow in front wouldn't be a bad idea. Prebuild wheels are problematic if sth happens. Had old deemax wheels, they lasted and I liked them but when I had to service them quickly it was not possible and I had to built a spare wheel.
I see a lot of people running DT Swiss Champion spokes, but what about the DT Competition? Aren't they better?
Interesting idea. I run two sets of wheels to minimise tyre-swaps at races. Currently one set is 823s, and the other set ZTRs. This annoys me, as I can't choose strong/light at the same time as choosing the tyres I want, so sometimes I'll end up on the heavy 823s on a course where they're not needed, simply because they had the better tyre combo on, etc.
Very tempting to relace them with ZTRs on the front and 823s on the back....
Seb, have you had any issues with your flows this season? Why don't you just go flows all round? Get a pair of hope hoops for £250ish...
I'm 210 lbs. and run the Comps. No issues.
That's what I'm planning to do later in the 2010 when I'm gonna replenish my budget after new years updates. My front wheel is waaaay to heavy for a 65-70kg rider.
Competitons aren't better - just different. The Champions are straight gauge spokes meaning they are the same thickness throughout their entire length. You can get them in a 1.8, 2.0, or 2.34mm thickness.
The Competitons are double butted spokes that taper from either 1.8(threaded end) to 1.6(middle) back to 1.8(hooked end) OR are 2.0 / 1.8 / 2.0
If you want to save some rotational weight (about 30g) then you can accomplish this by switching from the Champs to the Comps, but when it comes to which is "better" - this is a relative evaluation.
If you are not a smooth rider but weigh between 59 and 68kg, you could probably use the Comps and not have any issues. If you weigh more than 70kg. BUT are very smooth, you could probably use Comps and not have any issues. If you are Sam Hill but had a drunk 80 year old with one arm build your wheels - it doesn't matter which spokes you use. LoL.
In addition to spoke selection, it really depends on the rider weight, riding style, rim choice, size of hub flange, nipple material, and the competency and experience of the wheel builder.
Personally for racing, I prefer straight-gauge spokes for a stiff, predicatable wheel build.
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Competitons aren't better - just different. The Champions are straight gauge spokes meaning they are the same thickness throughout their entire length. You can get them in a 1.8, 2.0, or 2.34mm thickness.
The Competitons are double butted spokes that taper from either 1.8(threaded end) to 1.6(middle) back to 1.8(hooked end) OR are 2.0 / 1.8 / 2.0
If you want to save some rotational weight (about 30g) then you can accomplish this by switching from the Champs to the Comps, but when it comes to which is "better" - this is a relative evaluation.
If you are not a smooth rider but weigh between 59 and 68kg, you could probably use the Comps and not have any issues. If you weigh more than 70kg. BUT are very smooth, you could probably use Comps and not have any issues. If you are Sam Hill but had a drunk 80 year old with one arm build your wheels - it doesn't matter which spokes you use. LoL.
In addition to spoke selection, it really depends on the rider weight, riding style, rim choice, size of hub flange, nipple material, and the competency and experience of the wheel builder.
Personally for racing, I prefer straight-gauge spokes for a stiff, predicatable wheel build.
Got ya. Thanks man
Glad to help!
There's also the argument to be made that the D/B spokes will flex more throughout their length, resulting in less fatigue at the bend and nipple, which is where straight gauge spokes generally break.
Of course the counterpoint to this is that in a DH application, are your rims really going to last long enough for the fatigue life of the spoke to be an issue? Maybe if you're rolling on Doubletracks, which are about the only rim I ever see spokes broken at the bend on the rear non-drive side on a freeride/DH bike, but if you're rolling those rims, do you really care about weight enough to pony up for fancy spokes?
Anyway, I build my own wheels with DT Comps because I don't notice any difference in steering accuracy (not saying there isn't any, just that I can't tell even though I'm 210 lbs,) I work in a shop so the price difference is negligible to me, and I would rather save the rotational weight.
Of course the counterpoint to this is that in a DH application, are your rims really going to last long enough for the fatigue life of the spoke to be an issue? Maybe if you're rolling on Doubletracks, which are about the only rim I ever see spokes broken at the bend on the rear non-drive side on a freeride/DH bike, but if you're rolling those rims, do you really care about weight enough to pony up for fancy spokes?
Anyway, I build my own wheels with DT Comps because I don't notice any difference in steering accuracy (not saying there isn't any, just that I can't tell even though I'm 210 lbs,) I work in a shop so the price difference is negligible to me, and I would rather save the rotational weight.