So the past few days I've been frantically trying to get my bike together. Long story short, I took apart my DHX, didn't go back together (shim stack all mucked up, etc.) Got a B-tune Vivid, made an upper eyelett reducer (didn't realize it had a 1/2" DU on top as well), and got it mounted up. After all that, the rebound is ridiculously slow, and the shock is overdamped (all adjustments out). I tried oiling the main shaft seal to see if it was dry, and running the shock w/o spacers (just on DU bushings, gently pushing it down) to see if it was a reducer issue. I was under the impression the B-tune would work OK w/ the Morewood, which isn't particularly low leverage ratio. Running a 300# spring BTW. If anyone has run this combo and has any advice that would be great.
Semi-Urgent Morewood + Vivid Help Needed
- Thread starter Bicyclist
- Start date
Is this a new shock?
On my Vivid I've had issues with the top out "O"ring flying a part and debris getting in to the damping circuits making the rebound too slow.
On my Vivid I've had issues with the top out "O"ring flying a part and debris getting in to the damping circuits making the rebound too slow.
Brand new, out of the box. I'm thinking I need the A-tune, but none the less the thing feels way too overdamped. BTW forgot to mention I'm leaving for Whistler on the 11th! Hacktastic is trying to get my DHX all dialed in for me before I go, so this is my backup...
Yeah.... I have a B-tune on my Morewood and have been less than impressed. I'm about 185, run a 350lb spring, and 3-clicks of compression (everything else backed out).
I think the shock is stupid slow feeling even with the rebound off. When I got it I was looking forward to having a springy fast beginning stroke and slower end stroke for hard hits. I am also on my second B-tune, the first ones shaft started to back out.
If I were to do it again I would have just gotten my DHX Push'd.
Good luck.
I think the shock is stupid slow feeling even with the rebound off. When I got it I was looking forward to having a springy fast beginning stroke and slower end stroke for hard hits. I am also on my second B-tune, the first ones shaft started to back out.
If I were to do it again I would have just gotten my DHX Push'd.
Good luck.
Will do, Hacktastic currently has the shock, and I would need everything so soon it would probably be impossible to get it here in time...thanks for the offer though!
Anyone know someone in Whistler who would lend me a shock for some money if this doesn't work out?
Also, is the B-tune shock w/ lighter (i.e. "5 wt") oil doable if the internals of the DHX won't work out?
If it's just the shim order that you stuffed up in your DHX, this is what the 06 on my DHR has:
Backing plate
10.0x0.5 <-- compression side
8.8x0.4
10.0x0.2
12.6x0.1
15.3x0.1
17.7x0.1
20.0x0.1
22.7x0.1
Piston
17.7x0.2 <-- rebound side
17.7x0.1
17.7x0.2
15.0x0.1
12.6x0.1
10.0x0.2
10.0x0.5
Piston bolt
measured with cheapo verniers so might not be 100% accurate but should give you an idea of the valve code assuming yours was originally the same as mine.
Backing plate
10.0x0.5 <-- compression side
8.8x0.4
10.0x0.2
12.6x0.1
15.3x0.1
17.7x0.1
20.0x0.1
22.7x0.1
Piston
17.7x0.2 <-- rebound side
17.7x0.1
17.7x0.2
15.0x0.1
12.6x0.1
10.0x0.2
10.0x0.5
Piston bolt
measured with cheapo verniers so might not be 100% accurate but should give you an idea of the valve code assuming yours was originally the same as mine.
Yeah 5 wt oil would be a quick fix, my mate has the vivid now and at first tried 5 wt and that was too fast with a 450 lb spring (think its a B tune?), now runs 50/50 5 and 10 wt.
Dont know if this would be recommended by rockshox or suspension knowitalls??
Dont know if this would be recommended by rockshox or suspension knowitalls??
Kinda cleaned that up for ya, but I was looking for that just a few minutes ago. 99% sure all the rebound shims were .1 thickness. FYI Fox uses 6mm ID shims vs. 8mm ID for almost everyone else.
Mark, will be picking up the shock from Curt this evening. Will only take a few minutes to get it sorted out tomorrow.
Yeah, the 6mm ID thing is a bit of a bummer cos I have a bunch of 8mm shims but no 6s. There were definitely 0.2mm shims in my rebound stack - i could feel the different thicknesses by hand. I thought that the 18x0.1 would be better off being against the piston as it would seal off a little better than a 0.2, but whatever.
Perhaps the 18x0.2 rebound shims were a specific tune for my DHR, as it's a bit of an oddball dhx being a remote resi version.
Yeah I'm with Sov, but keep in mind the config has changed over the different year models of DHX... however all the ones I've seen have had at least one 0.2mm shim in the rebound stack.
RE: the vivid, they are a pretty hit and miss shock IMO. A friend of mine has a b-tune that is super sticky, and it's possible that that's what your problem is (rather than something wrong with the actual damping circuit/s or tune). Get the DHX sorted out and it'll prove to be a far more reliable shock (it's the most reliable thing out there IMO).
RE: the vivid, they are a pretty hit and miss shock IMO. A friend of mine has a b-tune that is super sticky, and it's possible that that's what your problem is (rather than something wrong with the actual damping circuit/s or tune). Get the DHX sorted out and it'll prove to be a far more reliable shock (it's the most reliable thing out there IMO).
Hey Bicyclist, sorry to hear about your predicament. We have tested a number of Vivids and have landed up using a "Sun" tune on our OEM spec which is a slightly altered "A" tune. The "B" tune although appearing to be correct on paper for some reason is sooo far out when actually fitted to the bike. In addition to this there have been a number of Vivids with a large amount of stiction on the headseal and bushing as well as the IFP making for a shock which is very firm on compression and very slow on rebound.
My advice: get the Vivid re-tuned or sort out the DHX.
Sorry I can't help further
