[Squeak]

Well, I had just put on a new chain. I also had taken the drive side crank and rings off and cleaned them. Now that everything is back together, I am having an issue.

When I shift from the small ring in front to the middle ring, it does not engage fully up on the middle ring. It will work off and on.

I did need to adjust the front lower limit to stop the chain from being thrown off the small ring when shifting from the middle to the small.

Any ideas?

 

[Squeak]

Oh. I am not an experienced mechanic so if this seems like a newbie question, bear with me.

 

[Westy]

If your chainrings are worn your shifting will suck with a new chain. If this is the case you can generally see the chain pivots ride on top of the teeth instead of engaging properly. If your rings are old replace'm.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

Originally posted by Squeak
Well, I had just put on a new chain. I also had taken the drive side crank and rings off and cleaned them. Now that everything is back together, I am having an issue.

When I shift from the small ring in front to the middle ring, it does not engage fully up on the middle ring. It will work off and on.

I did need to adjust the front lower limit to stop the chain from being thrown off the small ring when shifting from the middle to the small.

Any ideas?

Did you put the chainring on the correct way? Some have shifting ramps or the chainrings are probably shot.

 

[Squeak]

Yea, I only took off the small ring and it only has ramps on the one side. It is not on backwards.

I was afraid that the rings were shot. I think it was using gunk to ramp up and now that it is clean...

Could it be that the cranks are not tight enough up on the spindle? I don't think that is it but...

 

[Ridemonkey]

Originally posted by Squeak
Could it be that the cranks are not tight enough up on the spindle? I don't think that is it but...

Yeah that could be it. If your derailleaur is not moving far enough in relation to the middle ring, the chain will not engage fully. This could be caused by the crank farther from the derailleur due to lower torque on the crank bolt.

 

[Squeak]

Originally posted by Ridemonkey
Yeah that could be it. If your derailleaur is not moving far enough in relation to the middle ring, the chain will not engage fully. This could be caused by the crank farther from the derailleur due to lower torque on the crank bolt.

I am afraid to crank it tighter in fear of screwing up the arms. I need a Torque wrench!

 

[Ridemonkey]

Originally posted by Squeak
I need a wench!

I know, I know.

I'm tellin ya - try yahoo.

 

[Squeak]

Originally posted by Ridemonkey
I know, I know.

I'm tellin ya - try yahoo.

LOL

 

[skinny]

This is one reason why most shops'll tell ya to replace your drivetrain all at once, cuz like westy said, a new chain will suck on old rings.....how old are your rings?

 

[RollingMammal]

I'm guessing its just low cable tension. Play around with that. If your rings are on correctly and your crank bolt is tight then you need the der to move farther out in order to kick the chain onto the ring. You can also change the angle of the der a bit which makes a whole bunch of difference. If the der was working fine before, then crank your crank bolt. It is tough to strip them . . . for the drive side crank, insert the 8mm wrench into the head of the bolt parallel to the crank arm. So it looks like ===o----- =) just like that. Then grab the wrench in your left hand, and the non drive crank in your right hand, and pull up on the non drive crank until your hand turns red and it wont turn much more. Do the same for the non drive. Other than that, if you understand the idea of limit screws, play with tension. You have a barrel adjuster on your shifter . . . much easier than looseing and tightening the clamp bolt on the der. Hope this helps

-Dave-

 

[Triphop]

Originally posted by Squeak
I am afraid to crank it tighter in fear of screwing up the arms. I need a Torque wrench!

Hey Squeak...if all you did was remove the drive side crank and replace the chain, it is most likely that you just haven't tightened the crank on enough. As you said a torque wrench is necessary.

I just got a torque wrench and was amazed and how much torque should be placed on certain parts. I was waaaaaayyyy under tightening things, for the same reason you stated, afraid of damaging something.

So...if you haven't fixed the problem and want to borrow a torque wrench, lemme know as I am in Westminster as well.

 

[Squeak]

Originally posted by Triphop
Hey Squeak...if all you did was remove the drive side crank and replace the chain, it is most likely that you just haven't tightened the crank on enough. As you said a torque wrench is necessary.

I just got a torque wrench and was amazed and how much torque should be placed on certain parts. I was waaaaaayyyy under tightening things, for the same reason you stated, afraid of damaging something.

So...if you haven't fixed the problem and want to borrow a torque wrench, lemme know as I am in Westminster as well.

Hmmm. I actually have a new set of cranks and rings and a BB sitting here. I might just replace them.

It is sad because the cranks are 1st generation Race Face Turbines. They have been on my bikes for like 7-8 years. The new ones are isis. I may just get with the times.

Edit...the rings are about 2 years old.

 

[Triphop]

Originally posted by Squeak
Hmmm. I actually have a new set of cranks and rings and a BB sitting here. I might just replace them.

It is sad because the cranks are 1st generation Race Face Turbines. They have been on my bikes for like 7-8 years. The new ones are isis. I may just get with the times.

Edit...the rings are about 2 years old.

I have a set of RF Turbines as well...still going strong after 5 years.

Maybe the culprit of your troubles is the rings being old and worn...well, if you do replace the parts and need a torque wrench, lemme know. I think you will have to buy a special RF BB tool though.

 

[D_D]

Originally posted by Squeak
Hmmm. I actually have a new set of cranks and rings and a BB sitting here. I might just replace them.

It is sad because the cranks are 1st generation Race Face Turbines. They have been on my bikes for like 7-8 years. The new ones are isis. I may just get with the times.

Edit...the rings are about 2 years old.

Stand on the pedal of the crank arm you are tightening with one foot and use your other foot on the allen key to tighten it.

If you are heavy you will need to restrain yourself.

Stop tightening when the chainrings are lined up correctly or when you think it's no longer safe.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Originally posted by D_D
Stand on the pedal of the crank arm you are tightening with one foot and use your other foot on the allen key to tighten it.

If you are heavy you will need to restrain yourself.

Stop tightening when the chainrings are lined up correctly or when you think it's no longer safe.

Don't forget the eight pound sledge hammer to properly finish the job...

Can you spell t-o-r-q-u-e w-r-e-n-c-h?

J

 

[Squeak]

Well, after jacking with the tension on the shifter, it is better, but not perfect. Thanks for the info guys.

I feel like I am performing Voodo.

 

[Matt D]

the shifting problem up the the middle ring wouldn't be caused by worn rings and teeth. Worn teeth and a new chain will cause the chain to jump over the teeth when pressure is applied, but doesn't do much at all to shifting performance when in the stand.

Don't take this the wrong way, and I don't want to sound like an ass, BUT...
If you can't really get a hold on what's going on with the front der., should you be installing a new BB and crank, which will require some adjustments of the der.s, and not to mention a TORQUE wrench to get to spec?

I did as a kid when i was learning, and i broke a lot of stuff, but i learned eventually.

 

[Squeak]

Originally posted by Matt D
the shifting problem up the the middle ring wouldn't be caused by worn rings and teeth. Worn teeth and a new chain will cause the chain to jump over the teeth when pressure is applied, but doesn't do much at all to shifting performance when in the stand.

Don't take this the wrong way, and I don't want to sound like an ass, BUT...
If you can't really get a hold on what's going on with the front der., should you be installing a new BB and crank, which will require some adjustments of the der.s, and not to mention a TORQUE wrench to get to spec?

I did as a kid when i was learning, and i broke a lot of stuff, but i learned eventually.

I am not installing a new bb and crank.

 

[oldfart]

Originally posted by Matt D
the shifting problem up the the middle ring wouldn't be caused by worn rings and teeth. Worn teeth and a new chain will cause the chain to jump over the teeth when pressure is applied, but doesn't do much at all to shifting performance when in the stand.

Oh yes it can. If the chain is new and rings are significantly worn, the chain will not mesh well and will be riding up the ring in spots. In a cross chained situation, as the chain travels comes across the rings, the teeth will effectivly be too short to mesh properly and the chin "misses" the ring and falls down. If those rings are really 7 years old, and they've been ridden much, they gotta be toast. I ride maybe 5 to 15 hours a week off road and rings last me less than a year. Never use your feet to force tools. That's just asking for trouble.

 

[Matt D]

Originally posted by Squeak
Hmmm. I actually have a new set of cranks and rings and a BB sitting here. I might just replace them.

It is sad because the cranks are 1st generation Race Face Turbines. They have been on my bikes for like 7-8 years. The new ones are isis. I may just get with the times.

Edit...the rings are about 2 years old.

I thought you were, my bad.