[CKxx]

I recently purchased a Shiver (off this forum acctually) and have been reading everything about tuning them. That should pay off later once my arms heals (broke it..) and I acctually get to ride, but for now im confused about something I read in an old post. It was talking about the legs binding by not having enough space between the hub and the leg showing. The old post said that 3-4mm of the stepped axle should be visable. On my fork/hub (20mm ringle) there is no way to make this happen. When the non-threaded end of the axle is flush with the fork leg, the threaded end is maybe 4mm deep in the other leg. Am I supposed to shove the non-threaded end 4mm into its leg or what? Unless my fork is somehow permanatly bowed, which is unlikely, then it just doesnt want to do that.

Do some hubs not need that space, or am I screwing it all up?

 

[JRogers]

I am not precisely sure what you're describing, but hopefully this will help.

The visible axle should be between the end of the hub and the inside of the fork dropout. Insert the axle through the dropouts and hub. The non-threaded end should basically be flush with the outside of the dropout when you insert it. Put the cap on the threaded end and tighten it, then tighten the dropout pinch bolts. You'd really have to overtorque the axle cap to close the gap between the hub and inside of the dropout (but doing so would be very bad- binding the fork and damaging seals and bushings). I've used a generic hub and a WTB and both have that small visible gap between the hub and dropout.

I don't know what this looks like with no hub on it and I wouldn't worry about that. Put the hub in there, slide the axle in, tight in down. If you see no gap between the outside of the hub and the dropout, then something is probably wrong.

 

[Cant Climb]

Gap or no gap it doesnt matter.......it won't bind.

 

[Oppy]

If everything is fitted correctly and it is all the proper size there should be none of the 20mm axle showing between the legs just hub. It is likely that the post you are referring to was some very specific circumstance or just plain wrong. Hey just cause it's on the internet doesn't make true. :redX:

Check the manual. http://manualer.happymtb.org/marzocchi/

 

[Brian Peterson]

Actually, if the hub is properly sized, there will be a small gap between the hub and the inside of the right leg. Is what happens it the step on the axle pulls the hub towards the left leg while the right leg supports the end of the axle.

Try this when you tighten the wheel...
1) Insert wheel and axle.
2) Tighten axle end cap.
3) Compress fork a few times.
4) Tighten pinch bolts.

Hope this helps..

Brian

 

[CKxx]

Ill take the fork to work w/me and try all that. Thats. As I said, when I was putting in my axle the non-threaded end was ending up flush with the outside of the leg, so no "axle step" was showing at all. I would then tighten up the bolt on the other end, but the threaded end was about 5mm inside the leg.

Thanks for the help, lemme see if I can set this straight.

 

[Brian Peterson]

Ok.. The step is on the inside of the fork leg...

The other possibility is that your hub may be a little wide..

Brian

 

[zedro]

Ok.. The step is on the inside of the fork leg...

The other possibility is that your hub may be a little wide..

Brian

yeah my Formula doesnt seem to need any gap at all.

 

[CKxx]

yeah my Formula doesnt seem to need any gap at all.

I'm very glad to hear someone say that... The only way I could make there be a gap on one side involes putting pressure on them while tightening the pinch bolts.

Thanks for the help!