[mandown]

anyone using this combo? i'm thinking of converting the bottlerocket over to XT cranks and running a single ring with a gamut guide. anyone out there doing this? how did you rig your setup? did you just bolt the bash to the big ring mount and ditch the granny?

 

[W4S]

Which XT's? The X-type BB set-up or the ISIS style. Either way, the Gamut's a pretty simple chainguide, I can't imagine why you'd have any probs with that set-up.

Nice pic of 'unknown' on the Transition website, BTW. Where is that place, looks sick...

 

[mandown]

i'd go X-type/external BB. i didn't think there would be a problem, but i figured i would ask first then spend (not my style, i know).

that "unkown" rider is SICK!

 

[TheMontashu]

Stay away from a gammut guide, they don't work. I had nothing but problems with mine. I had to use some ghetto spacers to get it to work out of the box but originaly I didn't use enough and the guys at gammut told me to take OUT the spacers making to problem worse. I used more and the thing would still drop chains when pedaling backwards due to flex, as well the lexan bash guard cracked around the chainring bolts from hitting rocks. Go E13

 

[dhpunk~]

I used more and the thing would still drop chains when pedaling backwards due to flex, as well the lexan bash guard cracked around the chainring bolts from hitting rocks. Go E13

what would flex when pedaling backwards? pedaling backwards with a poor chainline/derailer or pooched freehub would cause a chain the skip out. flex at the top boomerang fore or aft would be a result of not turning the boomerang clockwise enough, making sure the chain is a fraction from the top guide when the suspention is cycled through.

 

[NovatoSCFR]

cant help on the setup - sorry - but I'll put in a word for gamut. I was frustrated when I bought the guide. Major setup issues, constant skipping, the whole thing is just a PITA. I called gamut, we tried some different things, including a new top cap, and nothing worked. I then ran into them again at a race, and they had a guy bring out a new guide for me for free. It has worked perfectly ever since. Super smooth, and has never dropped a chain. I'm stickin with gamut. Some of the best cs out there.

 

[TheMontashu]

what would flex when pedaling backwards? pedaling backwards with a poor chainline/derailer or pooched freehub would cause a chain the skip out. flex at the top boomerang fore or aft would be a result of not turning the boomerang clockwise enough, making sure the chain is a fraction from the top guide when the suspention is cycled through.

I had the narowist spindle possably run and a 150MM rear hub

 

[Daver]

Stay away from a gammut guide, they don't work. I had nothing but problems with mine. I had to use some ghetto spacers to get it to work out of the box but originaly I didn't use enough and the guys at gammut told me to take OUT the spacers making to problem worse. I used more and the thing would still drop chains when pedaling backwards due to flex, as well the lexan bash guard cracked around the chainring bolts from hitting rocks. Go E13

Clearly you can't set a chainguide up for sh!t then. I have had not lost a chain this since i've been running a gamut, and i've beaten the crap out of it too. Imagine- big rider, bike with a 13.5"bb, and riding rocky tracks. I don't know how you can have problems related to flex, as the guide is pretty damn rigid too. A few of the guys around here are running gamuts on the XT external bb cranks and it runs fine.

IMO it works as well as an mrp, better than an e13, and is nearly half the weight of an e13, not to mention cheaper.

 

[TheMontashu]

Clearly you can't set a chainguide up for sh!t then. I have had not lost a chain this since i've been running a gamut, and i've beaten the crap out of it too. Imagine- big rider, bike with a 13.5"bb, and riding rocky tracks. I don't know how you can have problems related to flex, as the guide is pretty damn rigid too. A few of the guys around here are running gamuts on the XT external bb cranks and it runs fine.

IMO it works as well as an mrp, better than an e13, and is nearly half the weight of an e13, not to mention cheaper.

An LG1 is lighter, and I have NEVER droped a chain in the 2 years I rode on an SRS and have yet to drop a chain with my LG1.

I like the company so I am going to give them another chance, possably if I go single ring on the bottle rocket im ganna get and on the next DJ rig I build

 

[xy9ine]

to add to davers comments, i too have nothing but good things to say about the gamut. it was the simplest guide i've ever installed & set up, has been absolutely flawless for the year & a half i've been running it, and is over half a lb lighter than the srs that it replaced. good stuff.

 

[W4S]

^^^ I'll third that vote. My Gamut took about 30 minutes to set up and I've never had an issue. Very simple, very effective.

 

[black noise]

Stay away from a gammut guide, they don't work. I had nothing but problems with mine. I had to use some ghetto spacers to get it to work out of the box but originaly I didn't use enough and the guys at gammut told me to take OUT the spacers making to problem worse. I used more and the thing would still drop chains when pedaling backwards due to flex, as well the lexan bash guard cracked around the chainring bolts from hitting rocks. Go E13

I agree! If you set up a Gamut guide improperly it won't work, just like any guide. When I got my SRS a few years ago the chain fell off a bunch before I figured out how to set it up. By the way, if the bashguard is cracking AROUND the chainring bolts that is probably because you over-tightened it. A friend of mine did this exact thing because he wasn't careful. 1/4 turn past snug.

I've run a G45 on my hardtail and one of the original P40s on my DH bike for a few years and they've worked perfectly. To anyone having difficulties, the owners are super friendly and will help you set it up correctly.

 

[TheMontashu]

I agree! If you set up a Gamut guide improperly it won't work, just like any guide. When I got my SRS a few years ago the chain fell off a bunch before I figured out how to set it up. By the way, if the bashguard is cracking AROUND the chainring bolts that is probably because you over-tightened it. A friend of mine did this exact thing because he wasn't careful. 1/4 turn past snug.

I've run a G45 on my hardtail and one of the original P40s on my DH bike for a few years and they've worked perfectly. To anyone having difficulties, the owners are super friendly and will help you set it up correctly.

They cracked after several months of riding, and with the BB mounted guide there realy is only 1 way to ser it up

 

[beaverbiker]

then it was definitely not set up right, as there are multiple ways to set it up. the spacers are not rocket science. if the gap's too big, put in a spacer. if it's too small, take one out. simple as that. then just adjust the clocking of the boomerange. blammo. cracking around the chainring bolts is from over tightening. the fact that it cracked there over time and not right when you bolted it down is because you were overloading the area with bolt preload, and then stressed it a bunch from hitting it on rocks and such. if you don't overload the bolt, those little cracks won't show up when you hit the rocks.

 

[Bicyclist]

then it was definitely not set up right, as there are multiple ways to set it up. the spacers are not rocket science. if the gap's too big, put in a spacer. if it's too small, take one out. simple as that. then just adjust the clocking of the boomerange. blammo. cracking around the chainring bolts is from over tightening. the fact that it cracked there over time and not right when you bolted it down is because you were overloading the area with bolt preload, and then stressed it a bunch from hitting it on rocks and such. if you don't overload the bolt, those little cracks won't show up when you hit the rocks.

Exactly.

 

[coma13]

My Gamut guide is phenomenal when I'm riding my bike. When I'm not riding on the other hand, the chain will fall off if I glare at it. It's quite odd. I need to space out the bottom roller I think. It's never happend to me while riding so it doesn't matter too much.

 

[TheMontashu]

then it was definitely not set up right, as there are multiple ways to set it up. the spacers are not rocket science. if the gap's too big, put in a spacer. if it's too small, take one out. simple as that. then just adjust the clocking of the boomerange. blammo. cracking around the chainring bolts is from over tightening. the fact that it cracked there over time and not right when you bolted it down is because you were overloading the area with bolt preload, and then stressed it a bunch from hitting it on rocks and such. if you don't overload the bolt, those little cracks won't show up when you hit the rocks.

Mine didnt come with any spacers, it was a BB mount. And even after I did space out the top part of the guide and the bottom roller the chain still fell off

 

[bikenweed]

My Gamut works pretty much perfectly with a 38t chainring. I've had a chain fall off once, but I shouldn't have been trying to pedal through a rock garden. Doh! A 36t and the chain will fall off occasionally, but with the 38, things are great. I use the X-Type Truvativ Holzfeller cranks, and it's the smoothest and best pedaling DH set-up I've ever ridden. +1 for a properly set-up Gamut!

 

[Chaz-man]

Hmmm

Well seeing as everyone else is chiming in with their stories I will share mine. I race frequently, and like most downhillers I know, I am always interested in the new thing. I like the technical parts of bikes, I like to tinker. I guess you could say that I am an "early adpopter". In 2001 I bought an Evil Security chainguide. It had a top hat shaped roller (very much like the gamut has now) and it worked OK. It was not great, I managed to drop the chain on it once or twice until I got is set up right, and after that it worked pretty well. I got to like it becuase I could pound through rocks and logs a full speed with it, using it like a plow when necessary. This caused me to break a couple of rollers and this let the chain drop. Of course when I saw the updated version at Interbike 2002, the e13 SRS I had to have it. I have to say, the SRS was a huge step from my previous MRP guides and better than Evil's first attempt. Over the next few years I tried an MRP system 3, which is a basic MRP guide but they took some inspiration from e13 with SRS style slider plates replacing the inner ring. This guide was pretty good, but I went back to the SRS becuause I kept bending the lower boomerang arm and losing the chain, plus for some reason my rollers always fell off. I hate losing those rollers. After lurking on this board and reading Beaverbiker rave about his guide I picked up a gamut last season, actually two of them. The guide is light, not as light as an LG1, but lighter than an SRS. I think too light. I ended up breaking my lower roller several times, bending my boomerang about 45 degrees once, (which caused me a mechanical in my race run) and I demolished a couple of bashguards. To top things off, the lower roller is LOUD. Like a blackspire loud. I travelled to Mt. Snow to race this year, and after multiple mechanicals I went to the e13 truck and asked what they could do. I don't know who I talked to there, but he actually offered to try to fix my gamut for me so I could make my final practice. Who does that?! I was shocked. I had them install an LG1 and I could not be happier. I bolted on a 1/4 piece of an old bashguard and it has been perfect. That's the kind of customer service that sold me on those guys forever. As a shop employee, I won't recommend any guide brands other than e13, but I totally understand the want and need for bikers to try new things and if this is the road that you want then you should go for it!

 

[Chaz-man]

Clearly you can't set a chainguide up for sh!t then. I have had not lost a chain this since i've been running a gamut, and i've beaten the crap out of it too. Imagine- big rider, bike with a 13.5"bb, and riding rocky tracks. I don't know how you can have problems related to flex, as the guide is pretty damn rigid too. A few of the guys around here are running gamuts on the XT external bb cranks and it runs fine.

IMO it works as well as an mrp, better than an e13, and is nearly half the weight of an e13, not to mention cheaper.

Nice attitude...

See my story for a tale of flex in the gamut hurting my results. I am not a hard rider (at least I don't think I am) but it happened to me several times. I am not sure what guides you weighed, but my Lg1 weighs less than my gamut by a bit, and I never worry about it losing a chain if I hit it on something.

Thats my addition to the conversation. If what works for you is working for you, thats is great and I support your opinions. It just seems that we have differing opinions. Thats OK.

 

[WoodsideBS]

I had the narowist spindle possably run and a 150MM rear hub

sounds like the spindle was just too narrow, with the the right spindle you don't need any ghetto washers. xt/gamut is a great combo, sets up easy, and works. something sounds fishy with your setup, with a narrow spindle why would you need to space the guide with washers?
z

 

[TheMontashu]

sounds like the spindle was just too narrow, with the the right spindle you don't need any ghetto washers. xt/gamut is a great combo, sets up easy, and works. something sounds fishy with your setup, with a narrow spindle why would you need to space the guide with washers?
z

I had a 118 spindle with a 73 shell, spindle leingth should not have been an issue

 

[davep]

I had a 118 spindle with a 73 shell, spindle leingth should not have been an issue

Unless the frame used an asymetrical rear end, you are quite wrong..sorry. A 118 spindle and 150mm rear = truely F'd up chainline. It depends a little on the crank, but the 118 spindle gives about a 50mm chainline. The 150mm rear is a 57.5mm chainline. In general, a 150mm rear requires a 128mm ISIS spindle shell width has nothing to do with it.

 

[TheMontashu]

Unless the frame used an asymetrical rear end, you are quite wrong..sorry. A 118 spindle and 150mm rear = truely F'd up chainline. It depends a little on the crank, but the 118 spindle gives about a 50mm chainline. The 150mm rear is a 57.5mm chainline. In general, a 150mm rear requires a 128mm ISIS spindle shell width has nothing to do with it.

I know my chainline was Fed up, the problem with my guide was tha thte roller and top guide were to far IN not to far OUT a longer spindle would only make the problem WORSE