Singlespeed

-dustin · Apr 24, 2004

i just got this for my Imperial.

i'll get some pics of it setup with an XT disc later tonight.

for now, i'll say i don't think you'll be able to get a comfortable gear for trail riding + bmx track + djs.

eastcoastzigzag · Apr 25, 2004

check in the cross country forum. i had a good SS thread goin. lots O info

anarchyUK · Apr 25, 2004

ss rock my socks

Toshi · Apr 25, 2004

i had a planet x bommer (that i won in a raffle here on rm in fact!) that i ran as a single speed. it was fine for just dirt jumps, but then the gearing wasn't right for trials-y moves, and certainly not something i could climb with... so when i traded up to my current evil it was never a question that i'd run a derailleur. with a short cage road derailleur you never really notice it flopping around, so i feel that it's the best compromise for a multi use bike.

dexterq20 · Apr 25, 2004

If your DS-1 is the pre-2003 model, it'll be super-easy to convert to single speed because it has horizontal dropouts. If it's a 2003 or 2004 model, you'll need a single speed converter.

To answer your question, my friend has a Cortina hardtail that he uses for just about everything (dirt jumps, urban, XC) and he runs a 32-16 combo (at least that's what he told me).

EDIT: a company called Gusset makes a sweet single speed conversion kit that includes a chain tensioner and spacers for your cassette.

-dustin · Apr 25, 2004

i have the Gussett conversion thing, as well. 1 problem with it: you only have 2 choices of chainline. with my Imperial, neither worked. i ended having to use the big spacer, plus about 3mm worth to get a good chainline. you'll see it in the pics.

also, man, those spacers are bitches to get off if you're freehub body is marred the slightlest bit. i'm running a King and the DX cog chewed it up a little. i about busted a vein in my forehead getting the spacer off the freehub 'cause of the microscopic indentions the DX cog put on the freehub body. i think 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC would've been a better idea, but eh, hindsight 20/20.

Cash-Money · Apr 25, 2004

1 1/4" pvc worked awesome for me. just measure out the widths you need, and cut your spacers

-dustin · Apr 25, 2004

here's the Rennen Rollenlager set up on my Imperial. 32:14 for now.

here's the XT disk with the Gusset + other spacers, which include: the bigger Gusset spacer, 2mm spacer, DX cog, 3mm spacer, 14t cog, 12t cog from an XT cassette.

the Rollenlager is the first, and only chain tensioner i have ever considered buying.

TWISTED · Apr 25, 2004

Originally posted by dexterq20
If your DS-1 is the pre-2003 model, it'll be super-easy to convert to single speed because it has horizontal dropouts. If it's a 2003 or 2004 model, you'll need a single speed converter.

To answer your question, my friend has a Cortina hardtail that he uses for just about everything (dirt jumps, urban, XC) and he runs a 32-16 combo (at least that's what he told me).

EDIT: a company called Gusset makes a sweet single speed conversion kit that includes a chain tensioner and spacers for your cassette.

I also run 32-16, or 2 to 1 on my ss. As long as you can stand up and ride (is there any other way?) it is a good all around ratio.
Note that any combination that equals 2 to 1 will work. 24-12 would be cool, small and out of the way, lighter too.
My buddy who rides trials says this is too tall for trials, but he can't clear big doubles on his bike.
The coolest thing about singlespeeds is they don't make any noise. Doing big stair gaps and landing without the rear deraileur going "CLACK CLACK CLACK" is great.
my bike is posted in the clean ht thread.

Colin · Apr 25, 2004

24:12 is 2:1, but you don't get much chain wrap on the rear cog.

MaxxisGuy · Apr 27, 2004

Originally posted by the Inbred
i just got this for my Imperial.

i'll get some pics of it setup with an XT disc later tonight.

for now, i'll say i don't think you'll be able to get a comfortable gear for trail riding + bmx track + djs.

Inbred should be our official spokesperson!

Thanks for the props man, I'm glad you like the product. You coming to Mt. Snow? If so, I got a tee-shirt for ya!

As for the gear choices, I know some people have been using the Chris King cog with good results.

I usually use a 36/18 for my compromise gear choice... I can grunt up most hills, and it still works in the park/jumps alright.

bbmj · Apr 27, 2004

im rocking my on-one gimp with 36-18, it works real well, i dont have to do any real steep climbs, if i did i would consider an easier gearing choice, but for moderate climbs, jumping, and just crusiing it works real good. SS is an awesome way to ride

bomberz1qr20 · Apr 27, 2004

I run a 34/17 on mine. Go for as many teeth as you can - more teeth = better chain wrap and longer durability. The weight difference is negligable.

The common rule of thumb is a 2:1 ration gives you the best all-around gear - climbing and accelerating. I tend to agree.

For better flat land acceleration go like 36/16 or so. Better climbing? 34/18. This is a good place to start anyway.

Longer cranks and wider bars are a good idea, especially for short, steep climbs. 180mm cranks give you more leverage, as do wider bars when you are doing the full body "I'm trying to yank these f**&in bars off up this hill" climbs. I use 28" wide Bontrager DH Crow bars.

animal 52 · Apr 27, 2004

How much $$ for the rollenlager. Looks nice.

Greyhound · Apr 27, 2004

Here's my deal.......

33T Kink Chainwheel 17T cog....Kona Stuff frame. The whole kit-and-kaboodle was a "perfect" setup---i.e. the combination yielded the right tension on vertical d'outs w/o the need for a tensioner......really, I couldn't believe my luck either. However, what I did do, was utilize an LRP-style tensioner my friend, Inkhell machined, and instead of putting extra links on, and routing it over the roller, I left it like it was, and rotated the arm upwards a bit, and pushed the roller out to where takes up the slightest amount of slack. It works surprisingly well, and I haven't had any issues with chain stretch, cause all I have to do is push the roller out a bit if it does.

MaxxisGuy · Apr 27, 2004

Originally posted by animal 52
How much $$ for the rollenlager. Looks nice.

They are $50 plus shipping.

Available at www.RennenDesignGroup.com

PS- as far as chainring size goes, I agree, the larger the better... to a point.

By using a larger gearing combo, you can utilize the smaller incrimental changes between each tooth size, and fine tune your tension.

With smaller gear set-ups, each tooth size difference tends to be too large a percentage change to fine tune things.

Get it?

GC · Apr 28, 2004

Ken beat me to it, Oh Well here it is anway

A Rollenlager can be purchased for $50.00 Here

www.RennenDesignGroup.com

Thanks

GC

mental · Apr 28, 2004

I run a 36 - 18 with 24 inch rear wheel. I use it for most everything, though the steep climbs in Nelson dictate my fat arse getting off to push on occasion.

It's by far my preferred set up, no ghost shifting, no chain slap, no broken derailleurs. Just lube and go!

If only my wife were that easy!

animal 52 · May 4, 2004

Great, thanks for the info. one thing though. I have an idea about running two gears in the back, one for trails and one for street. Is the rollenlager versatile enough to say, take up the slack going from a 32-15 to a 32-17, or even a 19 in the rear? Also, does it set up quickly enough to make pre-ride change of gears feasible, or is it better to just leave it alone once its dialed in?

GC · May 4, 2004

I was riding a 42-21 in the rear during the winter and I am currently running a 32-15 in the rear on an Iron Horse Sinister HT. Setup is really gonna depend on the bike CS length, dropout design and Gear Ratio. As far as changing gears easily it might work but its gonna have to be a specific setup. Give us a call if you have more questions.

GC

www.RennenDesignGroup.com

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