[LordOpie]

I'm thinking of getting a new ride. I can't really afford it, but road biking is the only activity that I can do -and- like to do on a regular basis. So I'm thinking, maybe a new ride. I stopped by my LBS and they have these bikes that are appropriate for my style of riding -- casual rides, longer distances, 5-6 100+miles (some supported, some solo), 5000miles/yr.

I'd appreciate your feedback on 'em. Basically, is there a significant reason to spend more than the Pro?

2004 Fuji Roubaix Pro : $950

Lemond Croix de Fer : $1250

Lemond Sarthe : $1650 (2005? It's got Veloce 10-speed)

Litespeed Firenze : $1900

I forgot to ask the guy what year the other bikes are *shrugs*


Also, if ya know wheels, could ya give me a quick break down on how these five compare to each other:

1. Mavic OP w/Ult -- currently riding.

2. Ritchey OCR Pro Road w/ Ritchey Comp Road hubs, Ritchey/DT Double Butted Stainless spokes on the Fuji.

3. Bontrager Select Road wheelsystem on the Croix de Fer

4. Bontrager Race Lite on the Sarthe

5. FSA RD 80 on the Firenze.

TIA!

 

[Serial Midget]

Told you so. Bitch. :evil:

For that kind of riding I would suggest a steel frame, it really doesn't mater who made the frame as long as it is well made from good tubes.

I think you are at the point where you will be wanting to build your own bike with the bits you want, off the shelf bikes are usually a compromise between marketabilty and quality.

Be practical - buy the very best drivetrain you can afford, in the long run you will end up saving money by not having to upgrade or replace.

Don't go by price - build the bike that is going to make you feel great everytime you throw your legs over it.

You can't beat mavic Open Pro rims - I am amazed at how well they hold up - for me they are the ultimate high mileage rim for a very reasonable price.

 

[LordOpie]

Told you so. Bitch. :evil:

I knew that was coming

I think you are at the point where you will be wanting to build your own bike with the bits you want, off the shelf bikes are usually a compromise between marketabilty and quality.

Be practical - buy the very best drivetrain you can afford, in the long run you will end up saving money by not having to upgrade or replace.

Don't go by price - build the bike that is going to make you feel great everytime you throw your legs over it.

I hear ya, but that all sounds expensive. And I've got debt already.

Honestly, I really did enjoy riding my current bike. Main reason for a new one is the old one is too small. Plus, I've got the new bike bug. I put 4000 miles on my current and if it was the right size, I think I'd be happy doing 10k more.

While I've learned a great deal, I don't think I've learned enough to care what stem or post or headset or BB I'm running. Am I wrong in that assessment?

 

[Serial Midget]

Am I wrong in that assessment?

All the time... neaky:

If you only have 4000 miles on your drive train and just need a larger frame then - buy a larger frame!!!

Spend your dough on the best frame you can get your hands on and transfer all the bits from your current frame and upgrade as needed when those parts fail. Less shock to the wallet that way.

I forget, you are not running full Ultegra now are you? You have Tiagra or something?

 

[LordOpie]

I have a frankenstein bike -- Sora-type cranks, BB and brakes; 105 RD; Ult FD, cassette & STI; the rest (headset, stem...) is low-end whatever.

I'm certain that only some of the components would or are worthy enough to transfer. If it's not gonna save me much, I like the idea of having my current as a backup or with dedicated touring racks.

EDIT: I'd also have to pay someone to do most of the build.

 

[Serial Midget]

I see you have already made up your mind... which one are you getting?

 

[LordOpie]

I see you have already made up your mind... which one are you getting?

I haven't made up my mind, testing 'em tomorrow. Gonna do a lap around Cherry Creek Reservoir on each. I mention it cuz you used to ride there tho I'm not sure a 10 mile ride is sufficient for a test. Whatcha think?

 

[Serial Midget]

I haven't made up my mind, testing 'em tomorrow. Gonna do a lap around Cherry Creek Reservoir on each. I mention it cuz you used to ride there tho I'm not sure a 10 mile ride is sufficient for a test. Whatcha think?

I know that when I was 15 I was partying with my friends at Cherry Creek, I had ridden my bike out from the Pinery and needed to get back to Parker where I worked as a busboy at the Warhorse Inn. I managed to make it to work on time but they sent me home because I was too drunk to work. :nuts:

Anyhow I think 10 miles should be sufficient. (Go campy.)

 

[Silver]

Go with whatever fits a triple and a mountain cassette

 

[JRB]

I like the cheaper lemond. I like the fuji next.

*any wheels on any of those bikes will feel flexy after you rode ult/ops. Keep your wheels and get you a triple. My compacts are a God send, so up there, a triple would be .

 

[ito]

What size is the frame you currently have? I kind of need a road bike. As much as I like pushing a fixed up all the roads, I need something I can put longer miles on in comfort.

Let me know, I could be interested.

The Ito

 

[LordOpie]

ito, it's Fuji Finest (steel) 54cm, but as you saw above, it's not stock any more

I like the cheaper lemond. I like the fuji next.

*any wheels on any of those bikes will feel flexy after you rode ult/ops. Keep your wheels and get you a triple. My compacts are a God send, so up there, a triple would be .

I'll ask 'em to give me credit for the wheels and get another set of Mavic OPs.

The cheaper Lemond does sound good, but it doesn't sound that different from the Fuji. As silly as it sounds to consider how a bike looks, I really dig the Sarthe. Paint scheme is super sharp in person.

 

[LordOpie]

(Go campy.)

i've not used campy yet, please elaborate. Veloce is on par with 105, correct?

 

[JRB]

Looking again, I would take the Fuji and keep the wheels for training. They are a not too expensive upgrade. As dumb as it sounds, I wouldn't by the Lemond because of the no name brake calipers. I hate that about Trek.

 

[LordOpie]

Looking again, I would take the Fuji and keep the wheels for training. They are a not too expensive upgrade. As dumb as it sounds, I wouldn't by the Lemond because of the no name brake calipers. I hate that about Trek.

very useful! I'm not examining the bikes item-by-item, so thanks for point that out.

The other Lemond has Veloce brakes tho, I wonder how good they are?

 

[JRB]

very useful! I'm not examining the bikes item-by-item, so thanks for point that out.

The other Lemond has Veloce brakes tho, I wonder how good they are?

Probably ok. I have never ridden Campy, and never wanted to. 10 speed stuff is a pain in the ass to get here in Temple. It really boils down to the ride quality. I hope the cheap one works though.

 

[Serial Midget]

As silly as it sounds to consider how a bike looks, I really dig the Sarthe. Paint scheme is super sharp in person.

Don't be lured in by marketing.

 

[LordOpie]

Don't be lured in by marketing.

I won't be lured too much. There was something about the Sarthe I didn't like in the test ride. I rode a Lemond Buenos Aries -- mix of steel and CF -- and liked it a lot more. I rode a 58cm Fuji pro -- the 56 didn't come in -- and while it was a bit too big (and that's with a 95mm stem), it seemed like it rode fine, so I'll test the 56 this weekend.

I'm gonna check out another shop tho and maybe get something built more for me. Maybe I'll avoid...

Told you so. Bitch.

... in 18 months

 

[reflux]

i've not used campy yet, please elaborate. Veloce is on par with 105, correct?

I have the veloce groupo from a few years ago on my road bike. I chose it over 105 because:

- It was cheaper
- I hated the ergonomics of Shimano, it just never felt "right"
- I had a chance to try out Campy on some friends' rides and loved it

If I were in the market for another road bike, I'd probably see if Shimano fit my hands now that they've redone the ergo. I've had no reliability problems with my drivetrain whatsoever and I would totally go the same route if I had to make the decision over again, but there's just one thing that kills me about Campy. The problem is with the rear mech, it's that damn upshift "button." It actually feels great on the hoods (which I'm on most of the time), but if I'm in the drops, it's an ordeal to upshift. I have small hands and maybe Campy has adjusted things, but that's my take.

 

[Serial Midget]

I have Campagnolo Chorus 10-Speed and have not noted any difficulty in reach the thumb shifter but thet be due to my style of riding. If I am in the drops it is because I am hammering - my hands will be gripping the forward curve of the bar, from ther everything is in reach. The best part about the system in the hoods - nice and wide makes greal palm rests.

 

[Pau11y]

Lord Opie, I don't know what your time frame on this is, but I can help you build it when I come down in Aug. I'm in the process of piecing together my 2nd De Rosa and I think it'll come in well under $1,900.00. Between Ebay and some wheelin'/dealin' from contacts on Ebay, www.roadbikereview.com, and rec.bicycles.marketplace on google, you should be able to pull off the same thing w/ a DA decked bike.
I'm going to sell that 2nd De Rosa, buy a GIOS Compact Pro (steel) and carbon fork, and then sell my current De Rosa frame/fork.
If you're going to do frame/fork only, look on that rec.bicycles.marketplace. I just saw a 55cm Colnago (NOS steel) for $600.00 (or were you looking for a 56cm?).

 

[LordOpie]

thanks bro! I'll take you up on your offer someday, but I want a proper fitting bike for the season and August is too far off. But I do want to build my own bike someday, so your knowledge would be appreciated.

 

[Pau11y]

thanks bro! I'll take you up on your offer someday, but I want a proper fitting bike for the season and August is too far off. But I do want to build my own bike someday, so your knowledge would be appreciated.

Kewl kewl.
But I'd stay w/ steel for the biggest bang for the buck. And if you go double 9, it's cheaper than triple or 10. It was suggested to me to use something like a XTR 11-32 in the rear w/ a med or long cage XTR der to compensate for climbing when choosing a double. These items are easy to change out for hill days, like the Triple. I think that's what I'm gonna do since converting my double DA to triple DA is HUGELY expensive.

 

[LordOpie]

Kewl kewl.
But I'd stay w/ steel for the biggest bang for the buck. And if you go double 9, it's cheaper than triple or 10. It was suggested to me to use something like a XTR 11-32 in the rear w/ a med or long cage XTR der to compensate for climbing when choosing a double. These items are easy to change out for hill days, like the Triple. I think that's what I'm gonna do since converting my double DA to triple DA is HUGELY expensive.

If you already have a bike and are looking for a cost-effective solution, sure, I'll agree that an LX/XT -- isnt XTR overkill? -- is a good solution. But if you can get a triple -- and you need the low gear inches like I do -- then you can get a tighter cassette.

Since I'm buying new, I'm gonna get the LBS to put the gears on that I need for free.

And yeah, I'm going steel again.

 

[JRB]

It was suggested to me to use something like a XTR 11-32 in the rear w/ a med or long cage XTR der to compensate for climbing when choosing a double. These items are easy to change out for hill days, like the Triple.

I did this for Ft Davis last year and hated the gaps in the gears. I got compact cranks a couple of months back and while I only have a few rides, I like them far better. I am riding a 12-23 here, but will switch to a 12-25 or 27 for the mountains. I did a huge ride 2 months ago with a 12-25 and 39-53 and that will never happen again.

*how's the search going LO???

 

[LordOpie]

Paully, I wasn't thinking earlier, maybe you can get a smaller ring on your cranks instead of doing everything else? Unless you want to fly downhill, you could go with a 28-44 upfront and 11-25 in back. FYI: I've not looked into this and don't know what size rings your current cranks can accept, but if it's just the cost of the rings, that might be the best way to go?

Loco, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get the Fuji R.Pro... I'm moving this weekend to a new apt., so I haven't had much time to do more looking. I didn't test ride it cuz the shop didn't have it last week, but did ride the Lemond Sarthe and Buenos Aires... neither of them seemed like they'd be worth the extra $600.

 

[Pau11y]

I did this for Ft Davis last year and hated the gaps in the gears. I got compact cranks a couple of months back and while I only have a few rides, I like them far better. I am riding a 12-23 here, but will switch to a 12-25 or 27 for the mountains. I did a huge ride 2 months ago with a 12-25 and 39-53 and that will never happen again.

*how's the search going LO???

I actually have everything to convert. But it's on a full XTR XC hardtail that I'd hate to take apart for this purpose as that bike is so dialed right now.
I might visit your compact idea tho as I want a long crankset anyhoo (172.5 currently). I did a ride (48 mi up at about 7,500 ft in elevation) w/ your exact gearing (50% on dirt roads) and I'm w/ you on that combo. It might be ok w/ a compact and a 12-27 I'm thinking.

 

[Pau11y]

Lord Opie, thinking of ya when I saw this ad:
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.marketplace/browse_thread/thread/72e8717a3c7c1120/1efb503a2d3cd164#1efb503a2d3cd164
I don't know what vintage tho.

 

[DRB]

Lord Opie, thinking of ya when I saw this ad:
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.marketplace/browse_thread/thread/72e8717a3c7c1120/1efb503a2d3cd164#1efb503a2d3cd164
I don't know what vintage tho.

Last year for super record was 86 or 87.