With 12mm nipples right? And for the front, while we are at it?258.5 on the left and 258.8 on the right. 258mm
Stan's ZTR Flow Tubeless Rim
- Thread starter Ridemonkey.com
- Start date
Yes 12mm nipples.
258.0 on the left side and 259.6 on the right. 258mm and 259mm. I would do 258mm on both.
Here you got everything you need
How did the tune wheelset work for you? Im just waiting for spokes so I can build my own wheelset.
http://www.dtswiss.com/SpokesCalc/Calculator.aspx
http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/cPath/679/products_id/344
http://www.hopetech.com/database/2010 HUB offset and pcd.pdf
Are you saying you can only buy black at the mo? I have been waiting for white to come into stock at CRC for what seems like ages.
you can get white from other sources in the UK who doing shipping
try the "original" UK Stan's importer - Freeborn Bikes, they had some white ZTR Flow when I was in their Esher store today
you can get white from other sources in the UK who doing shipping
try the "original" UK Stan's importer - Freeborn Bikes, they had some white ZTR Flow when I was in their Esher store today
Got a couple of rides on my newly laced up Stans ZTR to Hadley.
Losing 200 grams made more of a difference than I would have thought. I actually found the rim to feel pretty damn stiff! While riding and doing the grab rear wheel and seat trick. I also noticed my rear suspension was more active over high speed chudder. Might have something to do with losing 200 grams at the rim and going down to a 2.1 Excavator from 2.35
As long as all they do is crack and flat spot, I will be happy riding these on my AM/LFR bike. Haven't herd of any going to the taco stand yet...
Zeb of Big Tree bikes built mine up and he has been on his (DH rig) for 6 months and without issue. I trust that if the builder makes a difference, mine will be as good as they can get. He mentioned that this was a very rare case where he had to actually use a spoke gauge, because the lack of eyelets gives false sense of how tight it is at the nipple. That may account for some people's rims going to crap quicker than others. It's a bitch of a rim to get evenly tensioned.
I don't really care if they crack or flat, but if they ever decide to taco a little too easily, I am off to something more stout.
Losing 200 grams made more of a difference than I would have thought. I actually found the rim to feel pretty damn stiff! While riding and doing the grab rear wheel and seat trick. I also noticed my rear suspension was more active over high speed chudder. Might have something to do with losing 200 grams at the rim and going down to a 2.1 Excavator from 2.35
As long as all they do is crack and flat spot, I will be happy riding these on my AM/LFR bike. Haven't herd of any going to the taco stand yet...
Zeb of Big Tree bikes built mine up and he has been on his (DH rig) for 6 months and without issue. I trust that if the builder makes a difference, mine will be as good as they can get. He mentioned that this was a very rare case where he had to actually use a spoke gauge, because the lack of eyelets gives false sense of how tight it is at the nipple. That may account for some people's rims going to crap quicker than others. It's a bitch of a rim to get evenly tensioned.
I don't really care if they crack or flat, but if they ever decide to taco a little too easily, I am off to something more stout.
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Thanks,Yes 12mm nipples.
258.0 on the left side and 259.6 on the right. 258mm and 259mm. I would do 258mm on both.
Here you got everything you need
How did the tune wheelset work for you? Im just waiting for spokes so I can build my own wheelset.
http://www.dtswiss.com/SpokesCalc/Calculator.aspx
http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/cPath/679/products_id/344
http://www.hopetech.com/database/2010 HUB offset and pcd.pdf
The front only lasted about 3 rund before getting a big wobble and major flatspot! Rear is still going strong though, They are however maybe a bit too light, makes you hold back a little with rock gardens etc
The front only lasted about 3 rund before getting a big wobble and major flatspot!
sounds like a bad wheelbuild?
I've been running one set now for nearly 2 years without any issues, occasionally a re-true after a heavy DH ride session but otherwise good as gold
it helps with me being a professional wheel builder of course
sounds like a bad wheelbuild?
I've been running one set now for nearly 2 years without any issues, occasionally a re-true after a heavy DH ride session but otherwise good as gold
it helps with me being a professional wheel builder of course
Transcend, so how is the ztr hubs holding up?
The hubs are holding up really. I actually just got a new rear sent out last week, as my new DH bike is a 150mm rear, not 135.
The only glitch I have had is the first maxle hub i got for my trail bike (an early prototype) came loose somehow, and the carrier popped out of the shell just enough to gouge itself and jam up. Remove wheel, pop into place, haven;t had a problem since.
Apparently it was a rubber ring had too large of a diameter or something, and didn't exert enough pressure to hold things together.
Who built the wheels?