A brooklyn is probably the same level.bonus round:
on a hardtail?
hey at least I eventually came around to tires that work...
A brooklyn is probably the same level.bonus round:
on a hardtail?
because bike tires are produced in the same quantities as car tiresMy information comes from actually purchasing tires at the OEM level for automotive production and dealing with the engineers.
The process involves "How do we get your great looking tire x at price y?" The answer usually involves "We use the ****ty rubber and scraps off the floor."
My thing with that is that the real benefit of a true tire cutting tool is to knock off the rounded bit on the throttle side of rear moto tires. Anything else more intensive than that when it comes to tiny MTB knobs gets kind of like splitting hairs to me.Those won't work too well for flattening edges on the sides of knobs will they?
I have a hard time picturing scissors getting flat enough along the casing.
Which is the exact same thing as cutting off ramped climbing edges on a bike tire.My thing with that is that the real benefit of a true tire cutting tool is to knock off the rounded bit on the throttle side of rear moto tires..
Here's the thing. I love running tubeless on my trail bike and my 7" shuttle pounder bike. As it stands the only tires I've ever gotten to stay in one piece on the rear are dh casings. Not a big deal on the 7" bike but for my trail bike, I want something not too big, and something made of hard rubber so it rolls fast. 2.35 maxxis dh tires are the only ones I know of that fit that bill. Those are high rollers and DHFs......both have ramped climbing edges. And both get kinda slippery mid summer here when it hasn't rained in months and we're pedaling up dust. If you know of any other options please god let me know but that's why I'm cutting ramped edges and that's why I'm likely to keep doing it. But maxxis is the only company I know of still making hard dh tires and the 2.35s they make are the only ones I know of that aren't huge.Anything else more intensive than that when it comes to tiny MTB knobs gets kind of like splitting hairs to me.
People generally either want to take a knob OUT, cut it short (both done with end cutters) or SIPE (done with snips/FISKARS).
the cut you're describing I think goes back to just buying an altogether different tire.
Yes, the side knobs are too soft for this. They would need more support for this to work.
I've got a pair of brand new El Moco 2.1 in UST construction if you want them. They are 800+ g. I would love to try them but am riding wagon wheels now because I'm lame.If you know of any other options please god let me know...
Aw manI've got a pair of brand new El Moco 2.1 in UST construction if you want them. They are 800+ g. I would love to try them but am riding wagon wheels now because I'm lame.
Hans Dampf 2.35 Pacestar Super Gravity?If you know of any other options please god let me know but that's why I'm cutting ramped edges and that's why I'm likely to keep doing it.
What's the deal with super gravity things? Are those dh tires or some other neutered thing like everyone else is making. I'm not buying a mans cramp because that tread design is insane but the weight looks good on those casings (IE bad weight so probably tough)Hans Dampf 2.35 Pacestar Super Gravity?
I have idea what the actual size is or how stiff the sidewall is. I know the Schwalbes tend to run wider. The 2.5 Muddy Mary is huge.
Dh weight side walls with a freeride weight casing under the tread. That is how I understand it anyway.What's the deal with super gravity things? Are those dh tires or some other neutered thing like everyone else is making. I'm not buying a mans cramp because that tread design is insane but the weight looks good on those casings (IE bad weight so probably tough)
and a kevlar bead.Dh weight side walls with a freeride weight casing under the tread. That is how I understand it anyway.
I haven't seen them in the flesh. I was inferring the same as you, 900g+ weight must be pretty beefy.What's the deal with super gravity things? Are those dh tires or some other neutered thing like everyone else is making. I'm not buying a mans cramp because that tread design is insane but the weight looks good on those casings (IE bad weight so probably tough)
Has the 29'er DHF not hit shelves yet?Hans Dampf is the best 29'er tire going!
Everybody knows 29ers don't need Woochannel™.Hans Dampf is the best 29'er tire going!
Ironically, you're describing the scenario and design of the exact tire I run almost exclusively on my trail bike. 2.2 Comp 24 Michelin DH. I'm down to the last one I know of in existence, unless Cecil still has one hidden in his basement. I accidentally found mine in a shed at my dad's house behind some boxes.Which is the exact same thing as cutting off ramped climbing edges on a bike tire.
Here's the thing. I love running tubeless on my trail bike and my 7" shuttle pounder bike. As it stands the only tires I've ever gotten to stay in one piece on the rear are dh casings. Not a big deal on the 7" bike but for my trail bike, I want something not too big, and something made of hard rubber so it rolls fast. 2.35 maxxis dh tires are the only ones I know of that fit that bill. Those are high rollers and DHFs......both have ramped climbing edges. And both get kinda slippery mid summer here when it hasn't rained in months and we're pedaling up dust. If you know of any other options please god let me know but that's why I'm cutting ramped edges and that's why I'm likely to keep doing it. But maxxis is the only company I know of still making hard dh tires and the 2.35s they make are the only ones I know of that aren't huge.
As far as 'why people cut tires' I'm aware of why they do it because I'm one of them. I don't like it and certainly buy other tires when I can but in this one instance, I'm kinda stuck.
I thought it would be dry rotted to Hades, but it was perfecto. The Intense I was looking at was the MTB Edge. But good luck ever determining what an Intense Tire is going to do under throttle:You know 2002 came and went right?
Man that rubber's gotta be useless by now. I thought the 909 was that comp32 lookin thing.
1. There's no 2.35(old measuring, more like a 2.1) dh casing. Or even a (new sizing) 2.3 dh casing. The 2.4 dh versions are too big and heavy.Why don't you use the DHR2 you have been raving about? Should have better driving traction, especially de-ramped like that, shouldn't it?