Urban 24" cruisers
- Thread starter motowolf
- Start date
we the people, nuff said
I have a original 98' Brooklyn machine works cruiser for sale if your interested. pm me.
These seem like a good deal. I keep waffling back and forth on getting one. Is there anything that a casual rider would want to upgrade right away or can it be ridden pretty much stock until stuff breaks?
I see there are 2 in the RM classifieds right now. One a few hours drive from me. Tempting...
I hear the wheels are the weak spot on those. It looks pretty decent otherwise.
the dk general lee 24" MSRP is only $289 or something. i picked up a used one in almost-new condition for $150. you really can't beat that. you would pay 150 for 3 piece cranks by themselves !!
the one thing i swapped immediately was the stem. it slipped when i bunnyhopped up some stairs, and it was tightened down properly at the time. it looks like they have a generic stem on there instead of an aftermarket-style DK logo stem. depending which pedals your stock bike comes with you may or may not want to change those.
i'm also going to change the rear freewheel. for whatever reason they put a 17t on there. 39-17 gearing is very easy/spinny. if you want to go fast on flat ground, you would be better off with 39-16 or even 42-16, like i have on my old school cruiser.
i think the wheels are actually a strong point. not sure why snaky69 says that. sturdy hubs with OS axles.
and personally i would rather that it come stock with a gyro like the equivalent Haro does. i think a few years ago it did.
www.dkbicycles.com
the one thing i swapped immediately was the stem. it slipped when i bunnyhopped up some stairs, and it was tightened down properly at the time. it looks like they have a generic stem on there instead of an aftermarket-style DK logo stem. depending which pedals your stock bike comes with you may or may not want to change those.
i'm also going to change the rear freewheel. for whatever reason they put a 17t on there. 39-17 gearing is very easy/spinny. if you want to go fast on flat ground, you would be better off with 39-16 or even 42-16, like i have on my old school cruiser.
i think the wheels are actually a strong point. not sure why snaky69 says that. sturdy hubs with OS axles.
and personally i would rather that it come stock with a gyro like the equivalent Haro does. i think a few years ago it did.
www.dkbicycles.com
im kinda in the same boat. Whats the word on the haro (bakctrail x24)?
i have a barely used snafu mobius with red and black short cabels if your interested.,..
Thanks for the input. I can build wheels, so I can always ride em stock 'til they die and then build new ones fairly cheaply. The stem should be easy to replace pretty cheap. One of the MTBR reviews I read mentioned the same thing about them slipping. If I need to I can change the gearing that's pretty easily too.
I found new ones for sale for $259.99. That's hard to beat. Anybody want to buy an old school Pentax k1000 SLR camera to help me fund a new bike purchace?
I found new ones for sale for $259.99. That's hard to beat. Anybody want to buy an old school Pentax k1000 SLR camera to help me fund a new bike purchace?
i rode my dk general lee 24" bmx cruiser for the first time at a skatepark today and i found out that when i do left side double peg grinds on the mini, the low height of the bottom bracket causes the crank arm/bb area to hit the coping instead of both pegs simultaneously. i guess the bb is set very close to axle height. i have never had this issue on a 20" bmx.
the only solution is to not lean in too far on your peg grinds, or run some VERY fat pegs to raise up the level of grinding. i'm already running a 2"diameter peg in the front and a 1.5" in the back.
do any of the 24" mtb's have this bottom bracket problem?
the only solution is to not lean in too far on your peg grinds, or run some VERY fat pegs to raise up the level of grinding. i'm already running a 2"diameter peg in the front and a 1.5" in the back.
do any of the 24" mtb's have this bottom bracket problem?