we barely ever ride the park. it's all about the ledges, planters, benches and rails...Peg riders, do you do 50-50s on street, rails etc. or just mainly light use on ramp ?
we barely ever ride the park. it's all about the ledges, planters, benches and rails...Peg riders, do you do 50-50s on street, rails etc. or just mainly light use on ramp ?
Thanks Lethal. Peg friction is not my question. (Long time bmx'er). Just wanna know if the fork really holds up to 50-50's and Smiths on street.You still asking 6 + months later? Pegs work just like pegs on a BMX bike same friction coefficient.
If you mount it properly to the fork it is not going anywhere... my peg is attached using a bolt the same diameter as my pedal and inserts farther....
Anyone selling one already modded out for pegs?it's a regular 20mm front hub insalled on the fork normally. the 14mm rear bmx axle was just used because it was the perfect length. the ends of the 20mm axle are tapped out , flush thread on a nut and washer on the non-peg side of the 14mm axle, slip the axle thru the hub, washer and the other nut on the other side, slip/thread on your peg, thread on the outer axle nut and go grind...
Nitpicking here: As far as I know the only Marzocchi forks with moving lower bushings attached to the stantions (giving the increased bushing overlap you mention) were the Shivers. The increased stiffness you noted is simply due to less leverage on the bushings due to the shorter a2c length.yeah, but some of us have our Z1's slammed down to 50mm's. the extra 4 inches of overlap make the fork retardedly stiff...
I'm not concerned about the peg or it's attachement to the fork. I'm having doubts about replacing two solid steel fork legs with 4 tiny plastic bushings to handle all that abuse between the peg and the fork crown.Pegs work just like pegs on a BMX bike same friction coefficient.
If you mount it properly to the fork it is not going anywhere... my peg is attached using a bolt the same diameter as my pedal and inserts farther....
why are you so concerned? It's already being done right now, as we speak. It's been done. It's done. It's doing. now. People are riding them. Unconcerned but having fun.I'm not concerned about the peg or it's attachement to the fork. I'm having doubts about replacing two solid steel fork legs with 4 tiny plastic bushings to handle all that abuse between the peg and the fork crown.
Throwing down tight rymes son , Satori's post need to be backed up by beat's cus they got flow .why are you so concerned? It's already being done right now, as we speak. It's been done. It's done. It's doing. now. People are riding them. Unconcerned but having fun.
Not my thing either, but I'm not doubting its existence or possibility to function.
sorry homie, more overlap is still more overlap. oh, and nobody said a single thing about a bushing...Nitpicking here: As far as I know the only Marzocchi forks with moving lower bushings attached to the stantions (giving the increased bushing overlap you mention) were the Shivers. The increased stiffness you noted is simply due to less leverage on the bushings due to the shorter a2c length.
It is possible to damage the bottoms of the fork legs... Mine's got some scratches from some missed grinds... magnesium doesn't like concrete I suppose hehe.the gold label fork has been popular with everyone on this board. but don't yall think it's a problem for pegs that the fork legs extend so far below the axle ? seems like you would easily bash up the bottom of the fork leg, with 50-50's and smiths. the d-street fork came with protective cap things--has anyone done this type of thing with the gold label fork ?
You talking about all the extra stantion flapping around under the lowest bushing? You could chop it off and it wouldn't make a bit of difference. You're "overlap" benefit is actually really low a2c height and less leverage on the bushings.sorry homie, more overlap is still more overlap. oh, and nobody said a single thing about a bushing...
Oh don't get me wrong. Not saying it isn't flawless for lots of guys. Just looking at it through my eyes (6'1", 250 lbs and very rough / unskilled when it comes to grinding ledges). That's all.why are you so concerned? It's already being done right now, as we speak. It's been done. It's done. It's doing. now. People are riding them. Unconcerned but having fun.
Not my thing either, but I'm not doubting its existence or possibility to function.
magnesium and concrete don't mix well...It is possible to damage the bottoms of the fork legs... Mine's got some scratches from some missed grinds... magnesium doesn't like concrete I suppose hehe.
Grind plates are good idea if you feel you'd need some...
. . . and to top it off the hub does not fit snugly between the fork legs (like it does on the Marzocchi D-Street fork). there's a gap, so when you tighten it up, the whole wheel shifts to the left. wtf !? i guess i need washers. which did not come with the fork.
okay. it'll cost you $340 shipped. since that's what i paid for that f-ing d-street fork and axle. you can have the d-street fork for free.i WILL buy your d street axle if u are interested
dude, i'm not sure about that.That gap will disappear once you preload the hub from the side with the axle bolt (before you tighten down the pinch bolts). No spacers needed, the legs just flex w/out the axle.
because the 20mm tube doesn't fit through the fork b/c of the hex-shape design ! it's actually smaller than 20mm if it's circular.why can't you get that regular 14mm (?) axle through the 20mm axle, then bolt it down in some pegs on each side?
nice bank account summary there by the way.
WORD, rigid, take it like a man!IMHO, just go rigid. the forks are lighter and cheaper (not to mention more precise/consistent/reliable when doing front peg tricks). your wrists might be angry with you for a while, but you'll become a MUCH smoother rider.
hah hah !!! i hear ya. but if my f-ed up wrist could still handle rigid i'd still be on my macneil 20" and i'd never have bought an mtb at all !!WORD, rigid, take it like a man!
yeah, i think that would.Take the GL axle to a machine shop and get it milled out, would that work?
cmc, did this post make you think you can fit the D-Street axle inside the Manitou's axle without modifying anything?
You do understand that the D-Street axle is not the end-all-be-all when it comes to putting pegs on a MTB Fork right?
It's a Marzocchi product, hence why it's not designed to work in perfect conjuction with your new Manitou product. You shouldn't be getting upset that you cannot pop your old Thru-axle into your new fork, it's just not going to happen.
However, as has been mentioned several times in this thread, there IS a relatively well trusted means of attaching pegs to Manitou forks, AND it's quite simple - no access to a "real machine shop" needed.
If you can get yourself to a hardware store, you can set up your Gold Label with pegs for under $20, guaranteed.
First question to ask yourself is what side do you want to run pegs on; even if it's both sides, putting the peg on either side is a different process so it's important to keep them straight.
Left Side Process:
There's a thread-in allen button head bolt for axle preload correct? Replace that button head with a standard STEEL bolt with the same threading as the buttonhead, and put a couple of washers between the peg and the dropout to space it away from the fork to give enough room for clearance. After that, all you have to do is mount the peg the same way you would on any other bike, slide the bolt through the peg and then thread it into the axle. Done deal.
Right Side:
The Manitou thru-axle is hollow right? Well the rightside hollow end is smooth, not threaded. What you need to do is go down to your local hardware store or shop, and ask them which tap you'd need to thread the hollow end to accept a 9/16's bolt. No machine shop access needed. At most what you'll need to purchase for this side is:
- the appropriate tap
- tap handle
- 9/16's bolt
- some washers
You already have the pegs, and the fork, so you shouldn't expect to spend more than $20 on the entire project I'd say.
If you've never tapped anything before, ask for a little advice on how to do it from where you purchase the tap from. If you're nice and it's a full service hardware store, they might just tap it for you on the spot for a buck or two, and you wouldn't really have to buy anything.
Long story short, if you can put a screw in a wall, you can tap your axle. Just go slow and be careful, and everything will work out in the end. When you're all set and done you'll be riding a custom almost flush mount job, which is all the rage in the BMX world nowadays
Forget about your D-street and it's axle - the process outlined above is a bit cleaner and ALOT lighter. I know Leethal posted in this thread; alot of the guys on the USB team themselves are running this setup for mounting pegs on their Jumpers/Gold Labels.
Piece o' cake!
Bingo!I dunno why you would want to stick an axle all the way through a Manitou axle although it would work, tapping the axle as Satori and I have decribed is every bit as strong the bolts used on either side are stronger than the interface between your pedal and cranks.